Nice six-pack.

The best flat top pair to put back on the car might not be the originals. There were a number of revisions of the flat tops between 73 and 74, and if you have different versions, I would absolutely use the later design.

And since a lot of them were upgraded at the dealers in those years due to customer complaints I would contend that the later design should still be considered "stock" even on an early 73 car. Changes described in the 73/74 carb modifications documents and TSBs.  (Ref TS73-38 and TS73-81)

So I'm no carb expert or stock car show judge, but I would not ding a 73 in a stock class even if it had the later version of the flat tops on it. YMMV

9 hours ago, Zup said:

 

For me, that's the first time that I have ever seen the original air pump and the air conditioning compressor co-existing on the drivers side of the block. I'll be interested in seeing how those were both mounted.

What is the Vin # and build date of this blue on white Z?

Mine is #167424 fairly late build date of 6/73---wondering how close a sibling this is.

 

 

The car is actually an early 1973 with a build date of 10/72.  The SN is 125678.  Also, I think  @jayhawk mentioned that he drilled the holes in the firewall for the AC so I am wondering if it is more an aftermarket AC and not a dealer installed AC.  Perhaps he can comment after vacation.  For this restoration, we will be removing the AC.  That makes things a little bit easier.

 

47 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Nice six-pack.

The best flat top pair to put back on the car might not be the originals. There were a number of revisions of the flat tops between 73 and 74, and if you have different versions, I would absolutely use the later design.

And since a lot of them were upgraded at the dealers in those years due to customer complaints I would contend that the later design should still be considered "stock" even on an early 73 car. Changes described in the 73/74 carb modifications documents and TSBs.  (Ref TS73-38 and TS73-81)

So I'm no carb expert or stock car show judge, but I would not ding a 73 in a stock class even if it had the later version of the flat tops on it. YMMV

I was not aware of the difference in the flat tops from '73 to '74.  I will have to look into that when I start re-assembly.  I will definitely be consulting you and @Zup when I move to the clean and restore phase. Thanks!

My question is how many judges can tell the difference between early and late model flat tops??? There's Bruce and Jim, any others?

There's also what could be considered a middle series if you follow the 73/74 Fuel System Modifications Plus TSB.

It's mostly internal though, so you couldn't tell just by looking.

8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Nice six-pack.

The best flat top pair to put back on the car might not be the originals. There were a number of revisions of the flat tops between 73 and 74, and if you have different versions, I would absolutely use the later design.

And since a lot of them were upgraded at the dealers in those years due to customer complaints I would contend that the later design should still be considered "stock" even on an early 73 car. Changes described in the 73/74 carb modifications documents and TSBs.  (Ref TS73-38 and TS73-81)

So I'm no carb expert or stock car show judge, but I would not ding a 73 in a stock class even if it had the later version of the flat tops on it. YMMV

I think I’d like to use the original carbs if possible.  My goal is to restore it to the way it was when I drove it off the dealer’s lot.  

The only changes I made to the car over the years was to add the aftermarket a/c unit (that I personally installed. Maybe that’s why it never worked very well ?) , replaced the radio with a Blaupunkt, and the carb “upgrade” (which cost me $554 in 1980 dollars!) The Datsun shops back then made a lot of money off of gullible flattop Z owners like me who bought off on the supposed superiority of the round tops.  For the record, I had never had any vapor lock or other problems with the car, and this was during a time I was driving all over southern California making sales calls.  I just wanted to “improve” my car after listening to a presentation at the Orange County Z club meeting by the mechanic who I then went to for the conversion. Hmmm...

1 hour ago, jayhawk said:

I think I’d like to use the original carbs if possible.  My goal is to restore it to the way it was when I drove it off the dealer’s lot.

Understood, and admirable.    

Got the radiator and AC evaporator out then started working on the back end.  This actually cleaned up pretty nice, and the bumper and rear end damage do not look too bad.  All the interior panels will need to be replaced though.  They are as fragile as egg shells.  The rear tail lights are in very nice shape.  Here are some pics from the disassembly.

 

Rich....You are “the man” when doing a complete restoration the right way. I love seeing these needy Z’s taken down to the bones and brought back to their original beauty. Now that you have a very detailed , “do it the right way” painter, you have the right combination to achieve concours results. With the time and money that you put into your restorations, it just lets you know that when a pristine Z sells at auction for $50,000.00, it’s little more than a “break-even”. I’ll enjoy watching this Z come back to life!

Guy 

Edited July 5, 20187 yr by Diseazd

I'm another fan of the flat tops, have been for years. Hi Jay, we have conversed on these a good few years ago. I never got round to using the flat tops, I sold the project Z I was going to use...

These carbs are well designed, as is the airbox that goes with it. Can't be that hard to use, its only fuel and air! (though the key is careful set-up/adjustment).

I may have an odd NOS for the "1974" version (as this version went on to 1978)..... and found an SU replacement needle part number...

Will be interested how you get on.

 

Some notes about a couple of questions raised in this thread.

1. The A/C unit was an aftermarket kit I installed myself sometime in 1974.  I recall it used a rotary compressor, which I thought would be smoother than the traditional reciprocating piston type.  However it was never very effective and the restoration will not include any A/C.

2. The condition of the interior likely comes from storing it in my side yard for 10+ years after I quit driving it.  It gets hot in the sun here in N. California east of the SF Bay.  Plus it has 188,000 miles on it. It was my daily driver from 1973 to 1988. I did get it back inside the garage in 2005, but the damage was done...

On 7/5/2018 at 5:29 AM, Diseazd said:

...... I love seeing these needy Z’s taken down to the bones and brought back to their original beauty. Now that you have a very detailed , “do it the right way” painter, you have the right combination to achieve concours results. ...

Guy 

Hi Guy, good to hear from you again.  Yes, having a great painter is a huge help.  It is the only way that I will do the cars now.  

 

Got some more parts off of the interior of the car.  Also got the engine harness out and the engine out.  Will take out the trans, diff and brake and fuel lines next.  Also got the wiper arms and wiper motor out.  I am guessing the car was parked somewhere close to a tree at one time.  That Z CSI comes in handy.  If i knew my trees better, I could tell you what kind of tree it was . ?

 

Spent a little more time removing parts today.  It was pretty dog gone hot here so I opted not to mess with the transmission today.  Instead, I removed the front end bumper assembly and lights.  Also removed some of the brake components in the engine compartment.  I did a quick wipe with de-greaser on the engine bay fenders and they clean up pretty nice.  Will clean up a bit more once I get all of the brake lines out.  Here are the latest pics.