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grannyknot

Just what the Doctor ordered. 1977 280z

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I think the chemical engineers designed that old brake fluid in keeping with the idea of owners trading in their vehicles every four years or so.  How many people do you know who actually ponied up the money for a brake system flush?  Oil and filter replacement?  Absolutely.  Maybe even a can of STP or top-cylinder lube.  Ignition system tune-up kit?  Of course.  New brake pads?  OK, if I really have to.  But new brake fluid?  I think not. -_-

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56 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

I got into the Brake Master, booster and proportioning valves today, hope you are not eating while reading this, pretty sure I'm the first one to remove the brake master.

 

Dude! That's pristine!

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Strangely enough when I disassembled the master cylinder and cleaned out all the sludge/crap, the walls of the bore looked pretty good, but I'll lobe it on to the junk heap, a new M/C is only $90 so hard to argue with that. I can just imagine what the wheel cylinders and clutch slave are going to look like 🚽

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It looks terrible, but that sludge might have protected the system against corrosion and pitting. Fingers crossed.

You can buy a simple seal kit for the early 240Z proportioning valve. It has a couple of parts that fit this one. Unfortunately I don't think anyone makes a kit for these.

The brake switch is an easy fix, if the bore is not pitted. I cleaned mine by cutting a slot in a plastic tube and a strip of fine emery paper.

 

Here is the thread. @Namerow posted some usefull info on the kit from msa.

Edited by EuroDat

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Must be my lucky month. I get a 77 delivered to my house on Father’s Day and Chris is doing a thread on a 77!!

saves me a lot searching because it will be covered quite well right here. 

I wont jack your thread but might make comparisons with my 9/76 . I’ll start my own thread since you’ve given me incentive . Funny that the car is the same color too. 

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11 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Strangely enough when I disassembled the master cylinder and cleaned out all the sludge/crap, the walls of the bore looked pretty good, but I'll lobe it on to the junk heap, a new M/C is only $90 so hard to argue with that. I can just imagine what the wheel cylinders and clutch slave are going to look like 🚽

Just went thru the same thing , but my 77 wasn’t as narley . The bore was pristine and the seals were very pliable - I’m going to run it. The calipers and wheel cylinders will get changed .

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On 6/10/2018 at 2:49 PM, Zed Head said:

That is a very nice set of connectors.  Proper spacing and everything.  You might consider using a male and female connector (Weatherpack is popular, I think) at the end that you cut so that you can just remove all six as an assembly whenever needed.  Much easier than splicing all six separately.  Looks like it was made for it.

http://www.whiteproducts.com/connectors.shtml

So this set was from a Passat 6 cylinder I’m guessing ? Taking notes 🙂

I have to do the same thing 

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8 hours ago, madkaw said:

So this set was from a Passat 6 cylinder I’m guessing ? Taking notes 🙂

I have to do the same thing 

No, it was some Passat with an inline 4 transverse engine,  it took two cars to make up my harness, I sniped the 4th connector and lead so I had 2 sets of 3 plugs. There is also 3-4 other single connectors on the Passat that match the other old ones on the 280z.

Not absolutely sure but could be 1996-2006

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Your picture showed an old harness still connected.  I didn't know that you had already mimiced the factory harness.  My mistake.

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2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Your picture showed an old harness still connected.  I didn't know that you had already mimiced the factory harness.  My mistake.

Not at all, I had just finished splicing the new harness in when I read your post.

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On 6/9/2018 at 4:33 PM, grannyknot said:

 

IMG_0740.JPG

 

I thought that the harness on the top came directly from the Passat.  That's what my comment was about.  Looks like a straight swap, six in one shot.

 

p.s. what is that red piece of garden hose doing connected to your AAR?  Holy moley...

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That pic threw me at first as well. But if you blow it up to full size and look carefully just to the right of injector connector #3, you can see the cut ends of the wires from the rear bank of three. The way they are laying in the pic makes it look like it's a full harness of six (as it was intended), but it's actually two smaller harnesses of three injectors each.

And as for the AAR, that's probably red 5/8 heater hose. The original hose turned to rock and crumbled to dust, so they replaced it with some heater hose of similar size. Not that I've ever done such a thing....   :ph34r:

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I see it now.  Looks like it was made to be spliced together to make a six pack.  

I forgot that heater hose used to come in red.  I'm using heater hose for my valve cover PCV port.  Living dangerous with no flame arrester.

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I did something really stupid today, it was working fine and I should have left it alone. So I snapped the rusted nuts off the rusted studs holding the EGR assembly to the intake manifold. Some how I have to get the EGR spacer off on the studs, get the corroded studs out of the aluminum manifold without destroying everything :facepalm:

 

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I do not envy you on that taste. They don't appear to be separate pieces of metal anymore... 😞

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BFH time! 

PB  blaster needs to get to the threads somehow. Maybe wirebrush and some tapping with a hammer will loosen enough to get some penetrant in there 

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I can send the blocking plate from Blue.  It has no EGR.  I can get one from the z Barn if you need one.

Use propane torch to heat the aluminum. Repeat a few heat cycles with Liquid Wrench cooling.  A few taps on the top of the bolt helps break corrosion and works the solvent through.

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that is exactly why I popped for the bolt buster induction heater. With out that I would try welding a nut on with a mig welder, that should get it hot enough break the corrosion bond. I am going to be fighting a broken bolt (front bolt that holds the FI metal hard lines in place) that happened before the bolt buster. Got a mig welder now so will try it out.

Edited by Dave WM
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3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I did something really stupid today, it was working fine and I should have left it alone.

Sounds like my Sunday... Or was that Monday? Probably both!    LOL  You ever seen the problem solving flow-chart?

Good luck with the project. I don't remember... Do the stud holes go all the way through to the underside, or are they blind in from the top? If they're all the way through, you could potentially get some penetrant onto the threads from the underside.

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Thanks guys, some good suggestions, spent a couple of hours on it today, BFH, heated multiple times with Map gas, cooled with wd40, little more BFH ,rinse repeat, so far it is not very impressed with my efforts. I'll keep it up for a few more days.

20 hours ago, 240260280 said:

I can send the blocking plate from Blue.  It has no EGR.  I can get one from the z Barn if you need one.

Phillip, that would be great, would appreciate that.

21 hours ago, madkaw said:

Or just cut it in half and slide it off - cut off wheel!

I may get to that yet.

21 hours ago, Dave WM said:

With out that I would try welding a nut on with a mig welder, that should get it hot enough break the corrosion bond.

This is the next step if the heating/cooling doesn't work.

 

20 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

. Do the stud holes go all the way through to the underside, or are they blind in from the top?

Blind from the top.  I may just wait until I can pull the intake manifold and get easy access to both sides.

Started working on the tail lights, the chromed bezels are pretty trashed but he plastic base is solid. I tried a test using Duplicolor Chrome rattle can paint, well it is not going to fool anyone but it is presentable I think. Anyone have other ideas?  Plastic chrome plating is awfully expensive for such a small part but I'm open to ideas.

IMG_0800.JPGIMG_0801.JPGIMG_0805.JPG

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Do you think the plastic would hold up to powder coat temps? @wheee! had some pretty impressive results with the chrome powder coat.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=66&tab=comments#comment-535792

And for the outer black portion... I was messing with one of them today as well. Not as impressed with the results as I had hoped, but I have two more things to try tomorrow. If I'm lucky, I may have a good option for you then?

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The minimum temp for powder coating is 325 F. that I have seen.  Now that you mention the black surround I remembered that it originally it was painted a dark silvery grey, at the least that was the colour for the 240's

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1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

The minimum temp for powder coating is 325 F. that I have seen.  Now that you mention the black surround I remembered that it originally it was painted a dark silvery grey, at the least that was the colour for the 240's

Mine are bleach blonde

E130CC7A-7E70-4DF6-A38A-E812E92644A5.jpeg

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We have a lot of bleached blonds in Alabama.  Wait a minute, your talking about the rear finisher! 

Mines more a faded Shinola shoe polish black. Like the tv commercials lawyers hair. LOL

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