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[2018] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?

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On 3/4/2018 at 1:32 PM, jfa.series1 said:

Getting ready for Spring with some fresh fluids installed today.

100_2996.JPG

do you normally run that heavy of an oil?

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8 hours ago, sweatybetty said:

do you normally run that heavy of an oil?

I ran 20/50 castrol for years in my daily car.  It gets hot down here. :D

Now I've gone to 10w-30 in EVERYTHING.  Keeps it simple now that I have all this old junk.

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On Saturday I was getting frustrated about the striker plate moving on the driver side door, so I attempted to cinch it down good.

Broken Bolt on Door Striker.jpg

That didn't end well. I noticed that my attempts to drill it out were meeting with similar success. (Tip: Spring loaded punches don't seem to pack enough punch to mark the center of a bolt.

Are you familiar with the First Rule of Holes? It goes along the lines of "When you find yourself stuck in a hole, the first thing to do is STOP DIGGING!"

I called a friend from the Georgia Z Club who has restored several Z cars to ask for advice/help. Fortunately he was willing to come over (yesterday) and drill it out. First he started with a dremel tool and shaved down a little where I had attempted to drill into the bolt. Once that was smooth, he marked the center with a sharp punch, and then he started to drill. He wasn't happy with the first go, so he hit the bolt with the punch again. He proceeded to drill through the bolt. He changed out the bit and drilled through again. Using the extractor, he pulled out what remained. 

We chased the threads, and I dug though my Nissan bolt collection to find 3 new bolts of adequate length. He adjust the striker plate, and the door closed just fine.

After he left, I pulled the remains of the bolt off of the extractor. It would take a micrometer to figure out if he could have gotten it closer to center. 

Now that I've seen his techniques, I want to practice punching and drilling out the center with some bolts in my collection.

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50 minutes ago, Diseazd said:

Removed the tint from my 73.......

Guy,

What technique did you use?

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Brandon lent me his steamer. You steam the hell out of an upper corner.....then start a peel with a razor.....pull down on the corner until you get 4 or 5 inches to pull on, then you can rip the whole section off cleanly. Use concentrated amonia to clean up the residue. All five windows took me a total of 30 minutes. My guess is you want the car as warm as possible....my garage is heated, but you could heat the interior up with the car heater for 10 minutes first.

 

51C555D3-40C3-4265-B123-9D77C8D6B68E.jpeg

Edited by Diseazd

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2 hours ago, Diseazd said:

Removed the tint from my 73.......

 

 

It looks so much better with the tint removed. Beautiful. To my eyes, a classic car like a Z with substantially tinted windows is like the same car with super modern wheels and rubber band tires. It just doesn't look right. You made a great improvement there. Gorgeous Z.

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5 hours ago, Diseazd said:

Brandon lent me his steamer. You steam the hell out of an upper corner.....then start a peel with a razor.....pull down on the corner until you get 4 or 5 inches to pull on, then you can rip the whole section off cleanly. Use concentrated amonia to clean up the residue. All five windows took me a total of 30 minutes. My guess is you want the car as warm as possible....my garage is heated, but you could heat the interior up with the car heater for 10 minutes first.

 

51C555D3-40C3-4265-B123-9D77C8D6B68E.jpeg

Thanks, ammonia is a good tip. I have a car that needs stripping...

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Checked valve lash and compression, went on a drive out to the countryside with the bicyclists all over the place.

Noticed a vibration at 50-+ mph. When I got home I opened a beer, started washing it and found that I threw a wheel weight. IMG_20180311_163344.jpgIMG_20180311_163407.jpg

Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

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Being a "4 spoke 'old school' fool" for wheels----

I had been intrigued for some time by this statement from Eric Neyerlin on his website:

"This wheel (pn 40303-N3200) is the only OEM wheel that Nissan specifically produced for the 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z (S30) models world wide.  Nissan parts catalog shows a 4/73 production date for this design.  Though common to most S30 models sold in Australia, Canada? and Europe this wheel was not offered stock on any US imported Z  cars except for one year on the 1977 Black Pearl special edition model.

Now, 46 years after the 240Z models were first introduction, this rare factory wheel is increasingly regarded as the the only true, period correct, vintage factory aluminum wheel to put on a meticulously restored S30 model, apart from original, model year correct, steel wheels and hub caps common to US models."

Well---OK---

I'm in-------

4-73 Nissan's first alloy rim.JPG

This is one of the set of 6 that I recently purchased.

All of the wheels are in truly incredible condition, extremely clean inside and out and 4 of them are polished very well.

I had a NOS set of center caps on hand from years ago that were destined for use on a set of "iron cross" wheels I owned at the time.

The caps fit perfectly on these wheels and I've always liked the factory Nissan "acorn" style lug nuts with the captured washer. A substantial nut with positive fitment between the wheel and the lug.

If the stated original production date of 4/73 is correct, then it is entirely conceivable that my 6/73 240Z could correctly have worn these in that same year.

As period correct as I can get for this car and I don't have to risk losing my hubcaps-----been there and done that.

I love the American Racing Equipment "Libre" rims currently on my car, but they are an American aftermarket rim. Seeing the "Nissan" stamp in the metal makes this "all right".

Zup's Zilver Z.jpg

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I’m a big fan of your period correct American Libre wheels. In the early 70’s, people would notice all Z’s, but when one came by lowered, front and rear BRE spoilers and a set of Libre wheels (made famous by Morton and Brock) and an aftermarket exhaust that sounded like Road Atlanta, it made them want to go out and buy one. Nothing wrong with a well restored Z with skinny tires and hubcaps, but what gets my juices flowing is the stuff that makes you feel like you ARE John Morton. IMO Zup, keep those Libres .......they are period correct.

Edited by Diseazd
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On 3/10/2018 at 12:00 PM, Patcon said:

Guy,

What technique did you use?

Patcon.....I got around to removing the glue from my windows. I masked everything off and put down drop clothes and used this stuff with 000 steel wool. Only took an hour to do all 5 windows.....ammonia will work, but not nearly as good as Goof Off. 000 steel wool won’t scratch the windows.....several layers of removal followed by window cleaner. My windows have never been cleaner!:beer:

A3FD7A1F-DAA4-4CD6-9476-7EAF5BC5EB9A.jpeg

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I met the guy that invented Goof Off at a paint show in Atlanta in the late 80s.  He was just a drunkard commercial painter that repainted apartment units but he knew Ronsonol alcohol would get latex paint off switch plates and other hardware.  He mixed up some Ronsonol with acetone and called it Goof Off because you could goof off and paint but be able to clean up the mess.  After that show he sold it off and now he's a bizillonaire is what we heard (probably dead by now though).  He was wearing painter's over-alls too, loud and funny guy.  Good story I'll always remember. :)

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9 minutes ago, moelk said:

Mocking up a template for a heat shield.

 

Wish I was there.

Two key design points:

1. You want the manifolds to be hot.

2. You want the carbs to be cold.

 

So, if the shield is not touching the carbs. it will help keep them cool. 

You can significantly lower the side near the air horns so that the hot air from the header flows along the shield towards the manifold at idle.

Edited by 240260280

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Thanks for the advice. This one will be with a little bend under the air horns. 

It will be mounted using the empty holes at the side of the carbs. It will sit 1 cm below the carbs.

But I will probably end up with a solution looking like this for the second version:

60D1185C-7D3A-4109-8BF8-6DE5A66159DC.jpeg

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7 minutes ago, moelk said:

Thanks for the advice. This one will be with a little bend under the air horns. 

It will be mounted using the empty holes at the side of the carbs. It will sit 1 cm below the carbs.

But I will probably end up with a solution looking like this for the second version:

 

 

So that makes two different devices:

1. Heat shield: to keep manifold heat away from carbs.

2. Cold air intake: to direct cold air from front of car into carbs.

 

You can consider doing both :)

 

Chimney-like bending of heat shield  can be used to direct hot manifold air to 77 and later 280z hood vents.

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5 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

 

So that makes two different devices:

1. Heat shield: to keep manifold heat away from carbs.

2. Cold air intake: to direct cold air from front of car into carbs.

 

You can consider doing both :)

Yepp I will make two different shields.

Hope to find some time for it that’s the biggest problem.

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2 minutes ago, madkaw said:

Or just buy my CAI and be done with it

8CC0D02B-0479-4207-BCEA-62B57754D064.jpeg

Nice but to much “bling” for my taste.

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Here is a design aspect to consider... heat shield with additional tabs between carb and head to divert heat upward.

A bit tricky because of congestion and access to carb mounting bolts.

 

 

image.png

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