Ah come on! Another one? Enough Already. Oh Fine.

[siteunseen]

Dad gum unforeseen circumstances SUCK! 

I may get rid of my '77 for the same reasons. 

Good luck with your sale! 

[grannyknot]

22 hours ago, zKars said:

Due to unforeseen circumstances, 3798 is back up for sale. All is good, no need to be concerned.

If you are interested, please let me know. 

Unfortunately I don't think I have another rusty car in me, the Doc has told me I better start taking care of my lungs from now on and that includes rust, paint, welding smoke...

Jim has been very gracious about me jamming out on the deal and I thank him for that. Have to start looking for cars that some other guy has dumped his time and money into for a change.

[zKars]

Well the car is up for sale locally on kijiji for the last couple of months, and I've been steadily "improving" it while I wait for a buyer.

I've fixed the major holes around the rear wheels wells. The intent here is to plug the holes to the interior to make the car safe to drive and get it to pass inspection. I want to get the car running, safe, registered and insured so the new owner can take it on and make it what they want. 

There is enough "missing" from the rear arches that they become candidates for a set of ZG flares just to cover the functional repairs. 

I've replaced the door and hatch weatherstripping with used pieces I have to seal out exhaust.

Couple of small rust holes in the floor boards to patch

Hopefully with it fully functional, more buyers are going to be interested.

The screws attach the panels, then the heads are ground off and spot welded. This leaves the SS screw holding it together and spot welded tight.

Wish I'd taken pics of the at strip that fits the curve of the wheel well. Made with a shrinker/stretcher. Screw it to the outer surface, then slight and hammer it to fit th inner curvature. 

Maybe you can see the four holes in the wheel well inner where a long-gone roll bar was located with 5/16 bolts. Now they have 4 carriage bolts/washers in them, sealed in with undercoating.

Note the fancy slightly used tires. 185/75-15.  These are fully safe and functional and replace the ancient winter knobbies the car came with. All with minimal cost. $160 for four and 15/each to install/balance. Props for gooddealtire.ca in Calgary. 

Edited July 22, 2018 by zKars

[zKars]

More progress. As Wheee mentioned earilier this is turning into a build thread.

I decided to investigate the pushed up floors and bent/caved frame rails, and to uncover what the PO had done to fill some holes.

Turns out the floors are actually in pretty good shape!  I was able to "massage" the floors back down to be flat-ish, and repaired the frame rail bumps and caves.  There are only a few small actual holes in the floor around the gas pedal and a both outer corners of the floor/firewall bend.  Other than the top of the drivers side frame rail that had to be replaced, it was a pretty easy job with a few patches and welding a couple of plates. The PO had literally FILLED the inside of the frame rail with thick tar like undercoating as the top metal was peeled right off. here is what I found after mining a lot of tar with a torch and a scraper. 

Having the top peeled off like that make flattening the frame rail a piece of cake! Just hammer/dolly it down flat. Most of the mess on the floors you see here is old tar. Cleaned up, other than the hole in the corner, it was just fine. 

Here is the holes and top of the frame rail are patched. The inside was pickled with phosphoric acid and Eastwood internal frame coating. The patch on the frame rail has the same domed top as the original floor.

The passenger side was much better. The frame rail was fine except for the very end.  I used the same approach as the driver side to straighten the frame rail. I cut windows in top where the worst dings were, and punched the dents out downward. Then I made the same domed cap as the driver side and just covered it all.  

i also removed all the old sound deadening tar mat. Naturally, the floors where still pretty well bonded, but the trans tunnel tar mat was COMPLETELY separated from the metal. It was firmly attached to the jute mating however...

Now to re-coat the floors, new sound deadening mat, and put it all back together. Plan on driving this thing to the Edmonton Z club show this Sunday. This should encourage buyers now that it is running, strong, and licensed. 

Any rust you see is just 'surface' rust. The dark stuff is remains of the tar mat. Notice even the top of the rockers is near perfect. 

[wheee!]

Looks great Jim! Love that your spending some time with this car and I am looking forward to seeing it in Edmonton on Sunday! Wish I could bring mine along to the show as well, but then it would be a trailer restoration!

[zKars]

Shiny Silver floors. Also flat, strong and waterproof.

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, zKars said:

Shiny Silver floors. Also flat, strong and waterproof.

Are you heating the material to help shape it or to help adhesion?

[zKars]

Heat is to ensure adhesion. It helps with conforming it to tight radii as well, 

Without a perfectly clean pristine metal surface, I find this B-Quiet Extreme doesn't adhere well without heat. On a hot day with a roller it's pretty good, but a little heat gun ensures a forever bond.

[Patcon]

17 hours ago, zKars said:

Heat is to ensure adhesion. It helps with conforming it to tight radii as well, 

Without a perfectly clean pristine metal surface, I find this B-Quiet Extreme doesn't adhere well without heat. On a hot day with a roller it's pretty good, but a little heat gun ensures a forever bond.

I will need to add some heat then. I had some adhesion problems on the ceiling so I removed it before adding the headliner. Didn't have as many concerns about the floor sections

[wheee!]

Have you tried the “ultimate” butyl product from B-quiet?

[Patcon]

I think I'm using the extreme. I don't think I have any of the Ultimate

[wheee!]

Butyl versus asphalt I believe

My Ultimate install was crazy sticky.