Jump to content

blodi

Weber selection and initial jet tuning

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, blodi said:

L28 F54/Flattops, .040 bore,  E31 Head which is ported/etc, 500/300 cam, 6-1 header, pertronix igntition.

 

I looked at the logs last night from the dyno and they are basically identical to the last ones I posted. 

 

 

Who did the headwork? Any idea on compression?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

Thanks. I wonder if something is coming  loose in the distributor to cause the break up?

 

btw the fuel pressure change should not make a difference for carbs.  It is an EFI trick to flow more fuel.

I'll try to take a look. 

 

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

Who did the headwork? Any idea on compression?

The whole engine was built by Ritalon Engineering.  No exact idea on compression.  It runs a 2mm headgasket but, the had has been shaved. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to use a pertronix igniter and it had similar misfire problems over 6k. I'd try a 280zx distributor if you can borrow one from somebody near.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, blodi said:

And what else? Do I put my pertronix components into that?

Nope, you just use that distributor, stand alone, with an appropriate coil and a little wiring

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. Found it way cheaper at Summit..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-31-1002/applications

 

Found some decent install instructions as well.  I'll order one up and give it a whirl!  Will my stock 240 tach work ok with this swap? I think I read they arent' compatible and that is why I opted for the pertronix. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I would just use my Pertronix pick up to trigger a CD box such as a MSD or Crane.

I think you have the compression to justify the need for a CD ignition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

couldn't watch the video. The play bar moves with sound but no video. I have used a match box dizzy with the standard tach.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Patcon said:

couldn't watch the video. The play bar moves with sound but no video. I have used a match box dizzy with the standard tach.

Try it now....should be fixed.  

In any case...ordered the new dizzy. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some thoughts:

  1. Is the point-gap adjusting screw(below) turned to hold the sensor off the rotor?
    image.png
     
  2. Is the sensor too close to the rotor?
     
  3.  Did you inspect and lube the springs and breaker plate under the top pieces?
     
  4. Are all screws snug?
Edited by 240260280

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Some thoughts:

  1. Is the point-gap adjusting screw(below) turned to hold the sensor off the rotor?
    image.png
     
  2. Is the sensor too close to the rotor?
     
  3.  Did you inspect and lube the springs and breaker plate under the top pieces?
     
  4. Are all screws snug?

All good points....I'll inspect tonight.  Any idea on the gap setting? I just installed a pertronix like a month ago on another car of mine, but probably didn't save the little clear "feeler gauge" they send with it. 

Edited by blodi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. So the sensor to rotor gap is tiny...less than half what it should be. I see no way of adjusting it either on this setup.  The two counter sunk screws hold the pertronix into position and there is nothing slotted to allow adjustment.  I can just use one of the screws and that way angle it to adjust the gap. 

85612A0B-D871-45A5-B0D6-E10D19730B8F.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, but the two other countersunk screws prevent the plate from moving at all. Its' fixed in position by those two. I removed one of them and adjusted the gap. I'll see how it runs Friday as I'm bring the car in for a car show here at work. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, I marked this up so its a bit more clear...

48307421396_bd2acf88a4_b.jpgDizzy by blodi, on Flickr

1 and 2 hold the pertronix plate (4) to the dizzy plate (6) and it cannot move around from there. I can move 3 around a bit, but it can't move 4 at all. 5 is fixed to 4 with rivets. 7 and 8 both did need to be snugged down a bit.  What I did last night is removed 1, adjusted the gap and tightened down 2.  Not sure if it will hold in position with just #2 in place, but it allowed me to open the gap. 

 

 

 

Edited by blodi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK. Thanks for the details. Got it.  I did not see the top rivet on the pickup (5).  I just did this adjustment on a similar set up and the pickup would move when turning the eccentric (3). It seems yours is not adjustable without drilling a rivet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The car really didn't want to start/idle well with the gap opened up to .030"  So I put the #1 screw back in and tightened it back up.  280ZX dizzy shows up tomorrow so I'll try that out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

280ZX dizzy is here.  Looking at the wiring diagrams I found. Do I need to switch over to a 3.0 Ohm coil or can I stick with my current 1.5 Ohm and Ballast Resistor setup?  Anyone know? I remember trying to delete the resistor and use a 3.0 ohm coil before and the tach would go wacky at mid-high rpms. 

72OrigIng.jpg

 

StockToZXIng.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a 1.5 Ps20 Fireball with my ZX distributor after researching. Works great!

You may need that specific cap and button too, they're bigger than Zs.

And the resistor is bypassed.  Oh, it says that above.  Sorry...

Edited by siteunseen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I use a 1.5 Ps20 Fireball with my ZX distributor after researching. Works great!

You may need that specific cap and button too, they're bigger than Zs.

And the resistor is bypassed.  Oh, it says that above.  Sorry...

Ok thanks! Do you run the ballast resistor too? 

I didn't think about the cap and rotor. I'll check tonight and see if mine fit by chance. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.