The reason you are six thousand dollars in and still have problems is you just randomly try things!!!! If you want to fix it without wasting money pay attention and take the advise that is given...these aren't hard things to do. My ten year old daughter could do it with a little direction...

I did not have time to take the car to the radiator shop today. So i guess i am only left with the option of leaning both carbs a Little bit to see if the rough idle and stalling can be eliminated. Front carb is at 4 turns and rear carb at 3.25 turns. If i lower both of them to 2.5 turns they will get a lean mixture and you will start hearing intake backfire.

Your float levels maybe off?  Shipping empty float chambers cause the floats to bounce freely, bending their tangs.   It's explained in the DVD.

I contacted them and they told me not to open the float chambers!!

In hindsight, that doesn't surprise me. You're looking to blame someone for your problems.

It's covered in the dvd but you call them anyway.

They're probably following this thread and don't want to open a new can of worms.  He hasn't fixed the most basic problems yet.  Getting in to the carbs would just add to the chaos.

A few more pictures showing how the carb heating just might, maybe, who knows, be part of the problem.  Even if it's not though, it's so easy to eliminate it as a potential cause.  Eliminate the simple stuff and you're left with a better focus.

No thermostat in the carb heating line, coupled with attachment to a high velocity return to the water pump inlet, pulling water through the manifolds, could lead to excess heat at the carbs.  As noted in the FSM, "deterioration" can occur with too much heating.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 8, 20169 yr by Zed Head
Trying to get the pictures ordered

Hot.

http://www.weather.com/weather/tenday/l/Panama+City+Panama+PMXX0004:1:PM

On ‎31‎-‎12‎-‎2015 at 6:54 PM, siteunseen said:

Datsun Parts LLC, missing something? That's the joke of the day, congratulations. 

Why ? I have a rebuild E31 head from them, and it works fine.

13 minutes ago, bartsscooterservice said:

Why ? I have a rebuild E31 head from them, and it works fine.

C'mon Bart, haven't you seen the problems that other people have had.  Are you implying that they're all idiots?  One good, many bad.  It's simple calculation of the odds.

Get rid of the heat wrap from the fuel lines first. This is not necessary.

The gauge reading I had a problem with to, it turned out I needed the ORIGINAL nissan temp sensor, because the after market ones had wrong OHM readings, giving the needle a wrong position on the gauge.

Do you use a stock mechanical fuel pump or an electric one ? Edit: One the picture on post 1 I guess you have an electrical one, ditch that and go back to the mechanical one, with the spacer plate ( some people forget that ). The engine was DESIGNED for mechanical, not electrical fuel pump, it's giving to much pressure on the needle in the float. In Original condition the pump is only feeding slight pressure when the engine is " running ".

Edited January 8, 20169 yr by bartsscooterservice

I don't remember which thread it was but as I recall the last pump installed was a 4 psi. That's more pressure than needed or advised. Not saying the needle and seat wouldn't handle it, for a while, but why push it?