Is this off too much?

[240260280z]

Electrical timing (spindle, pump, and distributor) is independent of mechanical timing (crank and cam).

The way to set up an engine is to put it at TDC then ensure that the cam marks are where you want them (positions 1,2,3).

Once the crank and cam are happily sychronized, you have to get the spark to ignite the mixture at the right time. To do this on a Z you again put cylinder 1 at TDC then adjust the spindle to 11:30.

Once this is done then the distributor plugs should be 153624 CCW from the #1 post on the distributor cap.

Now the distributor and plugs are nearly synchornized.

The final step is to start the car, use a timing light and rotate the distributor so that at idle the spark on #1 plug occurs between 8degerees and 20 degrees depending on the motor, emissions, and modifications.

IF THE DISTRIBUTOR CAN NOT BE ROTATED ENOUGH CW (advance) OR CCW (retard) THEN YOU HAVE 3 OPTIONS:

1. Flip the distributor over and try to get extra rotation by adjusting the nulling plate (8mm bolt)

2. Find a new distributor mount that clocks the distributor in the required direction

3. Move the spindle a tooth or two

4. Offset-Rotate plugs on distributor along with any of the above

Edited June 5, 2014 by Blue

[Zed Head]

I agree completely with verifying that everything's in alignment and orientation. And that there is a pretty wide range of adjustment on the distributor. But I think that picture that you posted is a product of that range of adjustability. It's not the stock setup, it's something that's been made to work. It's a variant. Better to follow the FSM for a stock setup, otherwise you could be dropping the oil pump and making adjustments for the wrong reason.

[siteunseen]

SUCCESS GENTLEMAN!!!!

I tried 4 times getting the tang at 11:30 by rotating the oil pump, no dice, it's straight up and down. But looking at my Tom Monroe book the top of the tang lined up perfect with the backside of the top bolt hole, maybe an odd front cover or something. I did see that my timing chain tensioner was sticking out too far through the oil pump hole, so maybe the loose chain has something to do with it? Who knows? I do know I've got a lot of work to do on that little baby. But boy oh boy does it rev up like a blender. I'm dying to drive it but it is storming out now so I'll get a chance to tidy up all the wires and then my garage.

Thank you all for your help! I'll drink some beers for everybody.

Oh yeah, dropping the oil pump is a bitch. Had to drop the stabilizer bar from the frame, then unbolt the drivers side behind the tire. It wasn't too bad I guess, just not as easy as I thought.

Looking back at my 1st post's pictures I guess I did get it a little better, maybe a tooth?

Edited June 6, 2014 by siteunseen