TOTAL clutch frustration!!

[Reverend]

I've tried everything that i can think of (not pressurised air, cause i dont have compressor) to bleed the clutch properly and make it move, but no.

I've bleed from master to slave in 3 different methods, ive tried to bleed from slave to master with hand pump. No results.

I've read those old threads and i just cant figure what is the problem. :mad:

As far as i know, fluid should come out quite quikly when pressing the pedal several times fast, well in this case its kinda of drooling out, not squirting, even i had bleed nipple fully open. I have transparent tube attached to bleed nipple so its easy to see.

I've replaced slave cylinder and removed and inspected the master. Rubbers were ok and it doesn't leak inside car.

When you press rapidly, you can see fluid moving inside master but almost nothing happends at the slave

So i beg you, wise Zholics to help me in this.

[IdahoKidd]

What symptoms started this out? Did you replace anything? Did it work okay before? Is the clutch engaged currently?

You should depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor and keep it there. Then, with the pedal on the floor, crack the bleeder valve and either a short burst of wet air or fluid should come out. With it still on the floor, tighten the valve again and release. Do this same step two or three times until nothing but fluid comes from the bleeder. This takes two people or a power bleeder of some sort. The pedal must be fully to the floor when the bleeder is cracked and tightened each time.

IF this doesn't solve the problem, it is possible the line to the slave may have internally or you may have a blockage in the master or slave. This is why I was asking if it was working okay before a change of some sort. Perhaps pinched the line, etc.

[Jeff G 78]

When I replaced the master and slave on my LeMons 260, I could not get it to bleed. Finally, I had someone tap the side of the master repeatedly with a wrench while I pumped the pedal. After only a few moments, the trapped air moved into the line and I got pedal pressure. From there, we could bleed normally.

[theramz]

It could be that your master and or slave are bad. I use a mini-vac and a little bleeder kit from Harbor Freight ($4). I used it to purge the whole brake system and no music from the biatch dept. I did the clutch without even getting under the car.

[jmortensen]

It could be that your master and or slave are bad.

Agreed, although if he checked under the boot and there is no fluid, I'm thinking they're probably OK.

One thing that could catch a person out pretty easily is not knowing that you ABSOLUTELY MUST have a bit of free play in the linkage between the pedal and the master. If the master can't retract all the way then it will never open the little port to allow fluid from the reservoir into the master. This means more fluid can't get into the system, so you're pushing the same fluid with bubbles in it back and forth in the hard line.

[Reverend]

I suppose it was working before, i just recently bought the car and it has been standing for about 1year. Clutch was in this condition. Idaho, that's one of three different methods i tried. I've only replaced slave cylinder cause it was wasted and was rusted stuck. I adjusted the new pushrod (slave) by the old one. Im not sure is the clutch engaged, if i remember correctly, it is not.

There is factory standard free play between pushrod and pedal ( was it 15mm or something)

I just really need to get this clutch working, gotta move the car..

[Carl Beck]

Change the master.. sounds like you don't have time to screw with it..

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Richard Oben]

If the slave was a mess the fluid was a mess and it likely destroyed the master. Change it and the tap method to get the air out of the MC is a good one. We use it all the time to bleed MCs on cars. HTH, Richard.

[ZCurves]

Sounds like everyone has given you great advice, but I was wondering if you have had anyone pump the clutch while you look to see if the slave is indeed actuating. It is possible that the clutch is bled correctly and the Fork that the Throw-out bearing is attached to is disconnected or otherwise bound to the spindle shaft. It is also possible that your Pressure Plate is seized.

1. Have someone pump the clutch while you observe the Slave. Does it move?
   
2. Can you move the Clutch Fork by hand? Be careful not to destroy the Boot!
   

If you have already replaced the Clutch Cyl, Slave and Lines, then It might be time to inspect the Clutch, Pressure Plate and Bearing. I hope it is just a bad Clutch Cyl. My two cents, good luck.

Andrew

[jmortensen]

There is factory standard free play between pushrod and pedal ( was it 15mm or something)

There are several adjustments here. One is free play in the pedal the other is in the linkage between the pedal and the master. You can have free play in the pedal and have the master linkage screwed up. I speak from experience.

That said if you're replaced the slave and not the master, I'd replace the master. I'd also disconnect the slave and shoot some brake cleaner through the hard and soft lines just to blow any crap out of the line before you continue.

[Reverend]

Alright, thanks for the advice, i better change the master and try tapping it. As far as i remember, i think i tried to move the clutch fork by hand but it didnt move. I wasn't using much force tough.

Yes, i always have another person with me when im trying to bleed it. Slave doesn't move even a millimeter.

Now i just got to get the master

[IdahoKidd]

Moving the clutch fork by hand will take a huge effort. You'll have to make a lever of some sort to disengage the clutch. As I see it, one of three things has happened: 1; the piston in the slave is stuck, bound up somehow 2; the rubber (or even metal tubing for that matter) is collapsed internally or blocked somehow or 3, the master is not working (non movement of the piston, leakage around the piston, blocked port, etc.)

Just re-read your original post. You mentioned having the master out. Are you certain the push rod from the pedal assembly is positioned in the piston of the master correctly? Is there any resistance at all when you push the pedal down? Does the pedal go all the way to the floor and return all the way back? I don't recall on the Z, but on some vehicles, there is a short rod that goes from the pedal actuator to the piston of the master. If so, it may have gotten left out. When the clutch is being depressed can you see movement of anykind in the fluid of the resevoir (cap off looking down) or are any bubbles present?

If you take the master back out, put it in a vise or find some way to hold it down and push the piston in with a dowl of some sort. It should squirt fluid out the port and it should also push back against you to the point that it will actually return to the full out position (spring loaded). If it doesn't do either, it is a master problem. Doing both does not rule out the master however.