Two questions

[Pomorza]

Hello all

Today I took the Z out for a short ride around town to get some things. Stopped at the local store to find that my car was low on coolant. Picked up a bottle of coolant and topped of the tank. While under there I noticed that the oil pan is leaking a fairly large amount of oil. Also noticed my tranny mount is going bad fairly quickly. (that was from driving)

1. Is there a way to replace the oil pan gasket without having to lift the engine or drop the cross member?

2. Has anyone replace a tranny mount that have pictures. I've been under the car I just need advise on where to start.

Jan

[beandip]

The cross member is not removable first off, and I know on a 240Z the engine must be lifted . On the L-6 the oil pickup hangs down and you cannot clear the pan. In my experience the pan gaskets fail from over tightening the bolts . This dents the pan inward and crushes the gasket causing a leak.

If you are experiencing a leaky pan gasket you might just check if one or more of the bolts are loose. You just might luck out. If the damage is already done you have nothing to loose.

When you have the pan off straighten the metal that is the surface that seals so it is flat. Also if you use silicone , which I would not do, to seal the gasket. Be vary careful not to use excess . It will squish out and can brake off in the pan and can clog oil passages.

Gary

[bobc]

Jan,

Gary and I may not be talking about the same thing, but the rear engine mounting (cross bar) is held on with two bolts. One bolt in the center holds the transmission to the mount. The Datsun Service Manual shows this on page TM-2. They call it a rear mounting member.

As far as getting the oil pan out without lifting the engine, I've never done it but heard it could be done. It all depends on where the crank shaft is in relation to the pan. That said, I probably would just go ahead and lift the engine up a bit instead of going through all the aggravation of trying to get the pan out. I also bet it would be hard to keep the new gasket in position when you have to slide it forward versus just straight up onto the block.

P.S. Just for fun, try getting a torque wrench and torquing the bolts down to between 3-5 ft.lbs. first to see if that solves the leak.

Best,

Bob

Edited November 2, 2009 by bobc

[=Enigma=]

Edit: Bob and I posted simultaneously......

Assuming your both (Pomorza and Gary) talking about the front suspension (cross) member, it is in fact removable as delivered from the factory, however I suppose it's possible someone could have welded yours on Gary. That said, dropping the crossmember will not help because the "motor mounts" and hence the motor bolt to the crossmember. Lowering it will lower the motor along with it. I'm betting that it would be possible to drop the pan without completely removing it and weasel the new gasket it, however cleaning the mating surfaces would be tough at best/ Hopefully someone who has actually done this already will chime in.

Edited November 2, 2009 by =Enigma=

[Pomorza]

OK here's a bit of a clarification. To begin with when I accelerate I can feel the entire transmission drop (literally) as I accelerate. By drop I mean as I accelerate the shifter falls down and away from my hand. This makes me believe that the transmission mount is bad and needs to be replaced. I've looked at it and it doesn't seem to be in good shape. I'm just wondering exactly how hard replacing a transmission mount is and where can one get one?

As for the oil pan. I haven't looked at it since I bought it but I'm inclined to believe that torquing the bolts down wont fix the leaking as it seems fairly tight on there at the moment. As I don't have an engine lift would letting a shop do it be a better move on my part?

Like to add a third question here. I've been having a pesky problem with my volt gauge being pegged out at engine speeds over idle. I had both the battery and the alternator tested twice (by different shops) and was told that they are fine. Do I have a bad gauge on my hands. At idle it sits at a nice 13.5 volts or so but the second I move at all the gauge just starts climbing, by 2k its at 16+ and just sits there. VR maybe. I did clean all the connections hoping this would help (the connections in the engine bay that is) but it didn't. Any ideas?

Thanks

Jan

Edited November 2, 2009 by Pomorza

[d240zx2]

I can't speak to any of your questions except that of oil pan removal. Your '76 may be different in some respects than my '70, but I found it merely inconvenient, not difficult, to remove the pan without lifting the engine or removing the front crossmember. Since the blocks are essentially the same, it should not be a significant problem for you. Just remember to use jack stands!

Frank

[kenz240z]

You might be able to remove the oil pan by removing the bolts that secure the motor mounts to the cross member. Then, jack up the engine so that you can fit a block of wood between each motor mount and the cross member. Be sure to use a block of wood between the jack & the oil pan when you raise the engine so that you don't dent the oil pan. That should give you enough clearance to remove the oil pan with the engine still in the car. Please note: I can't guarantee that this method works for a Z car...it does for a small block Chevy in a '64 Impala!

[ZDIZEEZ]

Rear tranny mount is ez! Support tranny, remove center nut in mount and then two outer bolts and it drops out. Heat rubber inserts till gooey and push out. Split remaining collar with a chisel and push it out and you are ready for new bushings.

[wal280z]

1. Is there a way to replace the oil pan gasket without having to lift the engine or drop the cross member?

Gotta do one or the other - or both. It is possible to support the engine in place while removing the cross member, although, I don't recommend this for your first time out. Here's a way I supported the engine on the other car when I removed the crossmember. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14307

I did the following technique late summer to fix my leaky pan gasket (which, was MIA due to the PO just using silicone... yikes!)

Before you replace your transmission mount, disconnect the motor mounts (one nut each side on the crossmember) and jack the forward part of the transmission to be able to allow the oil pan gasket to clear. You can only go so high before the transmission bottoms out on the transmission tunnel. Once you replace the oil pan gasket, and bolt the engine back to the mounts, then replace the transmission mount.

Good Luck