Pomorza

An analog Air/fuel ratio gauge.

Hi gents Just want to confirm something. I received a new gauge that states it does not want power while the engine is cranking. If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly the "A" (Accessory power) does not have power when the engine is cranking correct? Following it to the fuse box Am I reading this correctly? The "acc" inside the fuse box (radio, wiper, and fan motor/AC) are the only things unpowered while cranking? Thanks all Jan

Yup talking about the ignition relay on the relay box above the fuse box. I'm was tracing down a parasitic draw on my battery and I knew it was coming from this area. It ended up being the horn relay - not sure if its burn out or not but it was on at all times pulling about 2A. I don't believe mine had that relay.

Thanks Steve that's what I thought.

Gents I'm almost completed with my rebuild and have a quick question regarding the ignition relay. If you're not running the stock EFI or stock ignition system (I've updated mine to stand alone units) is this necessary? Thanks Cheers

Thanks for the suggestion. I bought a new one so it shouldn't be that difficult to do.

I figured it out, just needed a DMM. The stock sending unit is 10-12Ω full and 90Ω empty, the new sending unit is 13Ω full and 105Ω empty. The gauge I use has a standard setting of 0Ω full and 90Ω empty, meaning with this set up, it'll show empty before the car actually gets empty, which to me is completely fine. Thanks everyone!

Yes, if I pull the sending unit out of the tank and maneuver the arm the gauge works perfectly. If I reinstall the sending unit back into the fuel tank it reads nothing. I'll add fuel and see if perhaps 5 gallons is not enough to move the needle, it should as that's roughly 1/3 of a tank.

Yes I have confirmed the gauge works. It also works when the sending unit is not in the tank.

Gents In the process of finishing up my restoration and Ive hit a snag. I bought a new sending unit for the tank as the old one basically fell apart. Tested it outside the tanks and it work flawlessly with the new gauge. Put it in the tank with five gallons of fuel nothing zero. Pulled it out, tested again. Made sure the tank is isolated - it is. Still nothing when installed. Anyone run into this problem? Sending unit is the two wire available from zcardepot.

Took the entire car part, painted and replaced all parts on the front and rear suspension.

Hello everyone I'm on the final touches on getting my Z back on the road after the restoration and we've run into a bit of a an issue. I'm 16's on the car since about 2011 or so and with everything replaced and rebuilt it appears the front wheels sit more forward then before, to the point where the front wheels will hit the fender when you turn them. Is there a way to move these back, is it just a matter of adjusting the tension bar, or is it far more complicated than that, photo below for reference.

Hello everyone, I'm in the process of restoring my Z and am looking for the hatch glass rubber seal. I've gone through two now, one from precisions and one from vintage rubber and both seem to suck and leave a giant gap in the corners. Anyone know a good brand for these? Thank you Regards Jan

Hello all Does anyone have a good photo or photos of how the glove box door should be installed? I put mine in this afternoon and it just doesn't sit right, nor feel right. Thank you Regards Jan

excellent thanks mate!

Yup its a 1976. I'll take a look under there again. I may have plugged things in wrong there, will look again.

Greeting everyone I'm in the process of restoring my car and we've reached the point where I'm reinstalling the harness that I have R&Red. Mostly I've taken the old tape off, cleaned the wiring and retaped using some Tessa tape. Today I got the dash in and ran into two issues that I can't seem to figure out. 1. There is a six pin connector (three pins populated) coming off the relay box on the passengers side wall. I can't find that mate for this. Looking on the diagram I have it appears to be the 1W2. Does anyone know where this goes? I'm assuming it necessary. I seem to be missing the connection between the fan motor switch and the resistor. I swear I remember this being its own little harness - can anyone confirm this? Thank you everyone Regards Jan

Hello all Does anyone know what would go in this hole? Goes through the whole car and out the bottom. One on the other side.

Not disagreeing with you, had a quite lengthy discussion about the topic with him. He's rebuilt dozens of Z engines in the past so I'll take his word on it.

@Zed Head he's mostly worried about them popping out while driving. He's had this happen to one of his customers in the past and was very much against using the flat bottomed ones. I did find the JDM-parts ones right after making this post and it'll probably be where I will get them. Thanks for all the help guys Cheers Jan

Sadly not the ones I need.

Hey Gents I'm getting my Z engine restored update the cam to a more aggressive profile (regrind)The engines is pretty much done but I do need custom lash pads for this cam. My machinist has had issues with the flat bottom type lash pads and would prefer the stock type ones (the one with the little dimple on the bottom). Anyone know of a good vendor? I've used Lspecdatsun before, but the machinist is having issues getting what he needs. Thank you Regards Jan

That's 222° is at .050" lift if that makes any difference.

Hey guys Im having my Z completely restored and while at the body shop we go into a rather interesting discussion about the brake boosters. I am updating the cam on my Z to a mile regrind (.450 lift 222°) and my body shop guy brought up a concern. He owns a bunch (read: dozens) of old Mopars that he's updated the cams in and in most of them updating the cam leads to the brake booster being very ineffective due to the reduced vacuum. (example: In his Roadrunner, the brakes will work just fine...the first time, but if you press and let go and press again not so much). So question, for those who have updated their cams, did you have any issues with the brake booster afterwards? Thank Jan

I'm just going off what here. They call it an ECU. My FSM calls it a "control unit". Either way, the analog wizardry box that makes the engine go vroom.