Ztherapy excitement

[Arne]

What's this distributor that you speak of?

The non-emissions 240Z unit. The points dizzy factory installed on 240Zs where emissions controls were not needed. Could be used on a 280Z, but you'd need a 240Z dizzy support pedestal plus Pertronix or suchlike.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEIC01/12-4040

I had to add a new european curved dizzy. I am hoping my current pertronix will bolt into the new dizzy.

I believe the non-emissions dizzy uses the same points as the normal unit, so the Pertronix should fit fine.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

We will find out Arne. I have always thought my advance mechanism may be a bit dirty. I will tear it down and clean it after I get the new one in. Should be plug and play for the most part. This will complete my tune up so to speak. After I get the carbs in and balanced, will swap out distributors. I only wanted to change one thing at a time. Carbs alone are a big change, and I expect great things from the Ztherapy units.

[tlorber]

Just so you guys know, it is possible to buy just the throttle bodies from Ztherapy. This means that you have to swap all the other parts off your existing carbs, but you'll have brand new throttle shafts, which are the parts that tend to wear out.

I did this on my roadster, and it only ran around $270.00 (with exchange) instead of $630.00. The carbs on my new z appear pretty tight, (though not exactly clean), but I will absolutely use Z therapy againif I need carb work done.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

Not much to report, wife has had me painting the dining room and den this weekend. I did manage to get the radiator empty and got my coolant hoses removed from the spark plug side of the engine. I need to come up with a way to reroute the coolant hose straight to the heater core, versus around the engine to the intake. I need to connect two lines with different diameters. Should not be too hard.

In the mean time, I spent some time polishing my valve cover and refinishing my fuel line so it does not look so 'dirty' next to my purdy carbs. Engine is coming together nicely for now, just slowly.

[Weasel73240Z]

Here's mine, if this helps.

I got a reducer at AutoZone (3/4" to 5/8", I think) for connecting the two different diameter hoses.

Edited November 24, 2009 by Weasel73240Z

[zmadnez]

Installed the carbs with the euro tube this weekend per the ZTherapy instruction and vid. and the idle is about 2k rpm. Adjusted the idle screw on the carbs to close the butterfly valve to lower the rpm and it didn't lower the rpm. I am thinking it could be a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake. If it is a vacuum leak, what's the best way to isolate the leak?

[g9m3c]

Installed the carbs with the euro tube this weekend per the ZTherapy instruction and vid. and the idle is about 2k rpm. Adjusted the idle screw on the carbs to close the butterfly valve to lower the rpm and it didn't lower the rpm. I am thinking it could be a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake. If it is a vacuum leak, what's the best way to isolate the leak?

Grab a can of brake cleaner, carb cleaner, or similar product from a parts store. Crank the car and let it idle while you slowly spray the product aroudn the intake, vacuum hoses, balance tube, or anything else that could possibly leak. When the idle raises, you've found your leak.

I only suggest doing this if your intake and everything is bare metal still. No clue what brake cleaner would do to hot paint or other coatings.

[70 Cam Guy]

Installed the carbs with the euro tube this weekend per the ZTherapy instruction and vid. and the idle is about 2k rpm. Adjusted the idle screw on the carbs to close the butterfly valve to lower the rpm and it didn't lower the rpm. I am thinking it could be a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake. If it is a vacuum leak, what's the best way to isolate the leak?

Also make sure your throttle return springs are in the correct spot. I swear I look but I have done it twice where I put the spring for the front carb on the idle-up arm.... not a good spot for it.

Also make sure the linkage tie rod is not keeping your throttle open (balance tube to center linkage). Maybe pop off one of the ends and make sure.

Aside from a good visual, the vacuum leaks are another good place to look. I have had good luck with carb clean. Everything is connected properly? Brake booster hose, balance tube tight, etc

[Lazeum]

I would advice to try also to spot any leak with a fuel/heater hose: one end at your ear and the other to spot the leak. It is very easy to spot any unusual air variation.

Nice thread also, can't wait to hear how good the Z will run

[Carl Beck]

Disconnect the choke cables - push the chokes completely off by hand - to make sure the cables aren't holding the chokes on.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

work is on hold for a few days. Still working on the dining room and office paint jobs, but managed to squeeze some Z time in. I found out I have had non functioning choke cables. I can barely get them to move. Not sure how they worked in my older setup. So I will need to get those off and try to lubricate them.

Second, upon trying to start the car (which did roar to life rather quickly, but briefly) I noticed my fuel lines from the bowl to the car were SPEWING fuel on the ground. It was not from the where the jet nozzle is on the body, as that completely dry. Upon closer inspection, when I moved the fuel hose, fuel shot out of a small slit.

I will contact ZT today and see if I can get some replacements. He mentioned in his video that at times those get damaged during shipping. It is easy to see why.

As for how I fixed my coolant. I wanted to reuse the stock fitting that bolted to the side of the block. So I found a heater core cap that was made to block off coolant. It was remarkable easy and I was able to keep the stock routing of my heater hose. On the plus side, and another advantage to the 'while I am here' syndrome. I was able to finally add my heater grommet to the firewall, as well as my new choke cable grommet.

Lets here it for unplanned and extra work.

So, cliff notes version.... I got my carbs hooked up and all lines hooked up and got to hear some fire for a brief second before I saw some fuel leaking.

New fuel lines and new choke cables (or repairing my old ones) and I will be back on the road.

[7T1240]

UPDATE:

I wanted to reuse the stock fitting that bolted to the side of the block. So I found a heater core cap that was made to block off coolant. It was remarkable easy and I was able to keep the stock routing of my heater hose.

Hi Stephen.

I've been following this thread with great interest, hoping to largely duplicate your efforts in the near future. Will you provide more details about the heater core cap? Where you purchased it, part no. (if any), etc.

Thanks, Gary S.