Triple Mikuni and Webers
Discussions around the triple Mikuni & Weber carb setups
70 topics in this forum
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Getting ready to install my triple webers. I know the vacuum advance for the webers not hooked up and I have capped off the port at the dizzy. My question is about the other vacuum line that went to the back of my airbox with the SU's. It gots from the airbox down to the small junction box under the dizzy. What do I do with this line now as there is no port for it to go to now? Do I cap it at the junction box? What have you guys done with it? I can't find any images or info by searching.
Last reply by Zpat, -
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What comes with a rebuild kit? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by wsmagers, -
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We just bought a 1974 260z with triple carbs. However, they are locked up and unusable. Is there a solution to unlocking them? Also, if we have to replace them, what is the difference in the Weber triple carb and Mikuna triple carb?
Last reply by wsmagers, -
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im looking for a #45 auxiliary venturi for a weber 40 dcoe 18. send me a pm if you have one. thanks
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
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I've gone through the forums and cant seem to find a bottom line answer to this. I have Weber DCOE 45's on my 240 and I just purchased some new stacks (pictured in red). These stacks are the bolt-on style and do not slide into the carb, like some that I am seeing (also pictured). 1. Will my bolt-on stacks work with no issues? 2. I read that the "slide-in" type stacks help hold the venturi in place, is this true? 3. I also read that the "slide-in" type stacks do something with the choke plate, is that true? Thanks, Jeff
Last reply by Mike W, -
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Hey gang, thought I'd share an interesting Mikuni troubleshooting session that occured this past weekend. A good friend from Edmonton has a Datsun roadster 2000 with a pair of Mikuni 44's. After converting to them a few years ago, he's had nothing but trouble trying to get them run properly. Bought them fresh from Wolf Creek, so had no reason to think the carbs themselves were the problem. He's had several local "experts" try to get them working properly with no luck. In what can only be called a final desperate act, he asked me if I'd give this a shot. Being a sucker for punishment, I agreed. Now I did find the problem, but it was not anything that I'v e…
Last reply by zKars, -
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Yup, the regulatory plunger in my Mallory pump stuck and I ended up sending 18 psi to my webers for darn near a minute before I realized what was happening. I made a thread over that problem, including the solution. I am not back to a rock steady 3 psi. However, when I started it up the very first time after this happened the car acted very funny at first. One of the floats was stuck all the way down and I was running on 4 cylinders for a while. I tapped the top of the carb where the float needle is and the fuel pressure dropped to zero then increased to read 3 psi like it should, meaning it was being held completely closed and empty and when I tapped it, so…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Disclaimer: I am by NO means a Weber Pro and this post is still a WIP (Work in Progress) Hello, my name is Mike and I've recently tackled my first set of Triple DCOE Webers project. Now, I spent hours reading all the manuals and following a few guides online, but none of them were particularly methodical in their approach and often just led to more confusion. I'm putting this guide together to, hopefully, help others who might not have much experience with these carbs or for those who (like me) prefer a Step-by-Step approach to figuring things out. This guide has been made possible with the help of those more knowledgeable than me. Thanks guys - you know…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I have been fighting with the throttle cable on my Triple Webers for years. Just never had that perfect OEM feeling the push pull rods gave me (after they were rebuild and in perfect condition mind you) So Mike W. was kind enough to put me onto the Harada manifold. This this has all the features I have dreamed of in a manifold. It has a cast in bosses to hold the teflon bearings for the throttle rod. The throttle rod is BEEFY so deflection is not an issue on the middle carb. It comes with a Cable guide that should you want to run a cable should make the throttle feel excellent. It also has a torsion spring on the end that is awesome. I had drawn up one like this i…
Last reply by rossiz, -
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Hello Gents, As the title states I am experiencing some issues during deceleration when coming to a stop using the gears. I can put the car in neutral and it stays running. But when I use the gears to help with the stop especially when coming in hot and fast the engine just wants to die. It always dips to 500 RPM and most of the time just stops running. It idles good, it runs good going thru the gears, sounds freaking awesome! but the damn stop..... Been tuning the carbs for a few weeks and I think it is real close. Idles at 1000. Fuel PSI is 3.5. Fuel return line is capped. I barely have the 2-3K rpm stumble. I can tell it pulls very nice all the way to 5500 …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I just purchased a 1977 280Z as a project for my son and I. We are new to the Z car world. The car runs pretty well considering it has been sitting for a few years and is drivable after getting a new set of tires. The car is stock with the exception of triple webers and some modification to the vacuum advance that I don't understand. We are in the process of putting together the priority list for this project which will probably take a few years. But, in the meantime I would like to make the car a bit more drivable. The immediate performance problem is that the engine "bogs" down when accelerating in 1st and second gear. The car doesn't stall out completely but …
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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This occurs with one carb.while the other carb is rock solid stable. Normal setting for my car is 1 1/4 turns. Most recently, after 700 miles, the problem carb was down to 1/2 turn. I tried reversing the spring but it has not helped. I suspect the spring ends have been acting like a lock washer urging the screw in. I have been thinking about adding some thin brass washers to decouple the spring and screw. Any suggestions?
Last reply by djwarner,
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