Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,083 topics in this forum
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- 12 replies
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I've got a quick question, I'm ordering parts to change my oil on my newly acquired mostly stock 72 Z. I'm going with the Valvoline VR-1 10W-30, and I'm partial to Wix/Napa Gold filters, but the part number given for the 240Z is 51521 (Napa 1521), and my Z currently is running a Fram PH8A which is equivalent to Wix 51515 (Napa 1515)*. The difference looks to be only the capacity, any opinions or experience as to which one to go with? Thanks! *Edited to fix my own part number error
Last reply by Arne, -
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- 5 replies
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Missing very small part indeed. I was dismantling my combination and flasher switch for cleaning. Part on the pic has a tiny ball or marble inside it...and i lost it. I dont know the diameter or material of that little ball, but i do know that it is important, without it the flasher wont work.. Edit: Also i need help with the ignition switch. It's attached to steering wheel with 4 screws and 2 of them look very strange and cant be removed... Help?
Last reply by TBone028, -
Vin number. hsl3002863 Block number L24 005401 Long story short.......Do they match?
Last reply by Kathy & Rick, -
- 2 replies
- 792 views
While pulling on the hood latch handle the cable broke or came loose from the latch. How in the world do I open the hood to get to the cable end and repair? The hood latch didn't budge when pulled so th hood is dodn solid.
Last reply by n5eba, -
- 2 replies
- 737 views
Just bout this 280 and am currently working on giving her an overall tune-up. I have the dreaded "rear-end clunk" i know i need a mount but i cant find one anywhere.. any help?
Last reply by Nigel1943, -
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While driving my 73 240z began to sputter and die, s if it was running out of gas. I checked and the fuel pump (it's an electric inline pump) was definitely not turning on. Towed the car home, lifted the back end up and after the key was in the ignition turned to where the fuel pump SHOULD work for 2-3 minutes it all of a sudden appeared to have turned the pump on (it was making it's standard noise), but still, no fuel was getting to the carbs. I hooked a Voltmeter up to the fuel pump wires and even though the pump would make noise, and I even saw a small spark when I hooked up the voltmeter it read no volts (I know it was working, read 12V on my car battery). So I pulled…
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
- 12 replies
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Alright, so my 72 stock 240 is painted, mostly restored, and ready to roll. The engine was recently tuned up and the valves adjusted, and the SU carbs apparently synched by the mechanic I used (who I trust, as I've known him for years). The coil was replaced, as that was causing the car to hiccup heavily once it got warm. It doesnt do that anymore, but for whatever reason, it revs great up to about 4,000 rpm then it just seems to bog out. No high rpm torque at all. My nephew who has owned some z's and is a pretty good mechanic drove it and suggested that the carb floats are the problem, and that the carbs arent getting enough gas. Its true that when you hit that spot w…
Last reply by bigoak, -
- 12 replies
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I finally got spark in my ignition but it won't quite run. I'm sure the base timing is off because I have the new 280zx distributor on and I can't set the timing until I get it running. I put it back at TDC today. The rotor is pointed straight at #1 on the compression stroke (I think). I pulled the plugs and I believe pistons #1 and 6 are up. This car is making me crazy but I'm pretty sure that the harmonic balancer mark should be lined up with the 10 degree timing cover mark. Am I tripping or what?
Last reply by Gary in NJ, -
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Hello everyone, I bought a 1977 280z last weekend and the owner before me said the car had a fuel problem. Since I've started working on it I've only noticed that the fuel pump is always on when the key is in the "ON" position. The car has air, fuel, spark, and compression, but she doesn't want to turn over and keep running. The longest I've had the car running is about 5-10 mins then I shut her down and she wont start back up. Has there been any other problems like this before with anyone else's car?
Last reply by Grungnak, -
- 11 replies
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Hey guys any help would be appreciated!!!! I have just purchased my first Z and am very anxious to get it going. The engine does not want to start and the clutch pedal has no resistance at all. The fenders are rusted on the bottom causing them to seperate from the body mount. Driver's seat is ripped other then that the car is in great shape with less then 80K Any hints on to what goes wrong with these after sitting for years to get started again and where I may purchase inexpensive fenders and a drivers seat or cover? It is a 1972 240 Z with a 4 speed. Orange over white
Last reply by jazzyjeff, -
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
What would be the best 1st.gen z, as far as drive train problems,and rust problems.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 9 replies
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Hello all i am new to this whole thread thing but i just am at a crossroads. i will post some pictures and i want anyones opinions on what i should do im totally and utterly stumped. here is the 1970 datson 240z my grandma gave me and i was just wondering what i should do about the smash. other than that there is no rust and is completely solid. thanks.
Last reply by hls30.com,
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