Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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I'm just thinking out loud: I had a notion for how to build an interesting linear circuit, with a possible application towards replacing our crumbling ECUs. We'd have off-the-shelf parts and open-source design! I don't know whether I'd want to get into a project like this, but I'm thinking about it. Sure, it wouldn't have the coolness and sophistication of a digital design, but then again, isn't there a certain coolness about maintaining analog control? My thought is this: It should be possible to take two voltages and generate an output pulse whose width is a scaled product of those two voltages. This schema would use a typical voltage ramp (timing capacitor) wit…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 0 replies
- 1.3k views
Just an FYI for those who want to Insulate their Fuel Injectors and Fuel Rails from heat. Wire Care makes a variety of Thermal Tubing, Firesleeves and Thermal wraps. A really handy product is the T6 Thermal wrap. This comes in various diameters ( from 1/4" to 2" nominal ) and is split so that it can easily be wrapped around lines and injectors. Has a self sealing Hi Temp adhesive on sealing edge to provide a clean and durable installation. https://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=t6f Wire Care has some other really interesting products.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
- 1.2k views
I have a chance to buy a 75 EFI "matching" system complete for my 77. The only reason I'm considering using the 75 is because my 77 EFI has been butchered by previous owners and I have searched a long time for a complete 77 and have come up with "0". This 75 system looks to be in really good shape. Harness doesn't look butchered, AFM cover is still siliconed on, can tell it hasn't been removed, etc. Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as its a complete 75 system it should fit my 77 right? As long as I use all the 75's system I should be good. I'm pretty sure this is correct but verification would be nice. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 7 replies
- 1.8k views
I have a Federal Dizzy with dual pickups on my 1976 280Z. On cold start-up the advanced pickup is actuated and specs call for an additional 6 degrees of advance over fully warm specs. I have a fairly big cam in the car and wonder if any one has experimented with increasing the " Phase " split on cars with big cams? The car is pretty snarky when cold even with the static advance bumped to 12 degrees BTDC. First thing to do is to actually check if the advanced pick up really is set to +6 degrees additional advance. I know someone has messed with the dizzy before. If that checks out I'm going to bump the " advanced " ( cold running ) pickup to +10 degrees of advance and …
Last reply by Chickenman, -
- 2 followers
- 139 replies
- 19.1k views
Many people have reported having the typical 280Z EFI hot-start problem, where after ~10-20 minutes after shut-down (hot engine), the engine starts but runs very rough for what seems like 5 minutes but is actually about 30-40 seconds. Some people with EFI though, report that they don't have the problem (see #43 here - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/51601-hellfire-status-release-date-annouced.html#post452357). If we collect enough information, maybe a common solution (or non-cause) will appear. So far, headers and a straight fuel rail seem to be common to one engine that does not have the problem. If you have the hot-start issue, or if you don't, …
Last reply by S30Driver, -
Fuel problem 1 2 3 4
by kjphilippona- 39 replies
- 5.2k views
I have gone thru a very hard divorce last July and this old girl has been siting at the X's house to be started and run for a little from time to time. I decides to bring her to my new home this week, the battery was replaced and she started up and ran for only a few seconds then shut down, I could not get it to start again. I do not hear the electric fuel pump running and when i loosen the clamp on the fuel line going to the fuel rail, no fuel squirts out. Can someone please give me a good place to start looking for my problem
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
I've had this problem for some time now. 1976 280Z. Car has always been pig rich on cold start. Once it warms up it's fine. This happened with the old engine with the Stock Camshaft and the new engine with the 280 degree cam. Things I've checked and changed. 1: New ECU CTS and new harness connector to sensor. Have used DeOxit on all connections. 2: Cold start valve has been completely disconnected. Doesn't seem to make much of a difference if any. 3: Plugs, cap, rotor and wires all new. 4: New thermostat. 5: Just re-adjusted dizzy phasing. PO had it set up so that ignition timing was " Retarded " 6 degrees on cold start-up instead of being advanced 6 degrees. …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 7 replies
- 1.7k views
Simple question. Is the Yellow wire that goes to the BCDD a switched +12V connection. Don't have a BCDD any more, but I may want to use that connection for something else if it is Ignition On +12v. TIA.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
- 1 follower
- 70 replies
- 8.7k views
So I have three FI ECU's. All of them are A11-600-000 but different lots. How do I know if they are the same or if they are for different model (year) 280's? Pics of the two that are out of the car at the moment. Logic board says A12-001 003 6cyl This one is from Lot 6825 This one is C12-001 004 N This one is from Lot 7Z07 Does anyone have experience modding these boards or even identifying them? Thanks for any help! Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 9 replies
- 2.5k views
Here's what I've got. 77 280z, all stock. Was running great until one of the hoses on the fuel rail started leaking fuel. I replaced the bad hose, but have never been able to get the idle back to where it should be. I've checked and checked for leaks. Nothing I can see. But if I pinch the big hose coming off the top of the valve cover, the engine idles perfect. Not sure where to start my troubleshooting. Any comments would be appreciated.
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
Fuel Injectors 1 2
by rcb280z- 20 replies
- 2.5k views
There is a lot of info available on this subject. Almost too much info. Has made it difficult for me to choose one over the next. Narrowed it down to 2. The FJ707 (FJ3?), or the FJ707T. Can't find any info describing the difference between these 2 injectors. What is the difference between the 2? What does the "T" stand for? I installed these (FJ707) 3 years ago. Was going to send mine off to have rebuilt after installing these, why I bought the cheaper ones, but of course my originals are still sitting in the garage. Now I think one of the replacement injectors (a second one) is going bad (intermittent electrical issue). When it doesn't work I can tap on it to make it…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 33 replies
- 7.9k views
I haven't been able to really define what it is about adjusting the spring of the AFM that bothers me. But I think I've narrowed to down to one thing - preload. Preload affects when the vane starts to move due to air flow and should be an exact number, matched to the idle air bypass in the AFM and the throttle blade idle air bypass. Any adjustment of the AFM spring wheel will affect that three way relationship. That's probably why the factory glues the wheel down when they've adjusted it. But preload does not affect spring rate so once the vane starts moving the change in injector time versus vane position goes to the original design goals. If you tighten the sp…
Last reply by Chickenman,
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