Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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I just got a 1987 280z which is refusing to start. When I got the car the previous owner thought that it had a bad fuel pump. I changed the pump but still nothing.I measured the voltage on the wires that go to the pump while turning the key and the wires get around 3 volts, but not continually. When the key is turned on it gets some power and then it stops. I would really appreciate any suggestions of what I should look at. Thanks in advance. Sent from my SM-N920P using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I've got my car running again and I've encountered a new problem. So after changing injectors and fuel pump and draining the fuel tank( ethanol fuel rotted in the tank) I've been just putting ethanol free. But the way I got my car running was when I took off the fuel damper and replaced it with a universal filter the car started right up and it's been running for about two weeks now, but today while driving it just died. The car would crank and the pump was going and I checked the fuel pressure on the gauge and I was getting about 42 psi but the car wouldn't want to turn on anymore. We tried pushing it and popping it in second and that wouldn't even work. So we had to tow…
Last reply by SeKcGamer, -
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Hey guys, I've got a 78 280z that won't start. I think I've narrowed it down to the ECU but I'm not positive. I've read through the manual thing but FI is something I've never touched before, always had carbs. Basically the power relay is clicking, the air regulator has power, the injectors fluctuate a little with a voltmeter on it, but only a couple of volts. I tried the injector sound test with a screwdriver and that doesn't seem to give me anything. The pressure regulator doesn't buzz like it said it should in the manual, but I have no idea why it would buzz at it doesn't have any power running to it. I know the fuel pump works, it has a manual switch and you can hear …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I recently had headers and a new exhaust installed on my late 1977 280Z coupe and since then I have had a carbon like residue on the tailpipe and bumper. I understand this is referred to as running rich, are the two related or is this just a coincidence. I am not mechanically inclined and do not have the luxury of a garage that I can use to work on my car so I was wondering if there might be something my mechanic did when installing the exhaust system and header that would have caused this condition. He's a great guy and I am not looking to blame him or anything but I want it fixed and was hoping to get any info pertaining to the subject that may be helpful to him when I …
Last reply by the_tool_man, -
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Would this work with the Bosch ECU and ignotion (or HEI module)? The circuit kills the ignition by shunting the coil (-) side killing the coil for a half-second. It works with either points or transistorized ignitions. The ECU also gets a signal from the (-) side of the coil, and I think it would disable the injectors too, so I don't want to damage the ECU either. I'd like to ask out electronics experts if they think there is a real risk of damaging something. If not then I think this gadget would make a nice anti-theft device. The only thing that might be a bit of trouble would be to hide the switch that enables the device. The protective (plastic) box …
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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A while ago, I was looking into an issue where my idle would hang a little because the throttle body butterfly would not always return to fully closed. The puzzling part is that it always closed just fine with the engine off and it only got sticky when manifold vacuum was present with the engine running. Reference old thread about it, but that old thread never really got to the bottom of it: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45152-sticky-throttle-body-hanging-idle/#comment-409180 My solution at the time was to simply add an extra turn to the throttle body return spring and that extra spring force overcame whatever was causing the stick. Worked, but not really the rig…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Sounds like fun doesn't it? The winner receives a free glass of water at their favorite restaurant! I started through the process of tracking down my fuel pump and richness condition by going through the wiring harness and checking all of the connections. Man, is this sage advice from ZedHead and others! I found corrosion in many places (still not done), the worst on the thermostat or coolant sensor housing connections. Of course since I am a complete rookie this leads to the inevitable list of questions. I started at what seems like the most logical place - the ECU. I started here to follow the harness to it's many terminations. Stumble #1 was an almost i…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Has anyone tried substituting a fixed resistor for the coolant sensor? The engine will still operate, but you may need to make sure the coolant was within the operational temperature range to get the full performance, which is what we do with these classic engines, anyway. The goal is to reduce the amount of wiring on top of the intake manifold. I suppose you could use an adjustable resistance, for special conditions, like we do to richen the mixture, which is in addition to the coolant sensor. I think that's the only resistance the ECU needs, besides the air temperature from the Airflow meter, and the airflow signal the from AFM itself.?
Last reply by wheee!, -
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Hey Everybody, A few months ago I acquired myself a rust bucket 76' 280z (mainly for parts and drivetrain) I want to get the engine running to confirm that it is worthy of holding onto. Somehow I cannot get the injectors to pulse. The car fires right up when hit with ether and will run as long as ether is supplied. BEFORE everyone goes ahead and says it I DO have the EFI BIBLE and have gone through it best of my ability to follow the testing suggestions. What I've done so far: Pulled all 6 injectors, tested that they open and produce fuel, not clogged. Have a NEW Fuel pump hooked right up to the fuel line. Connected back at the tank so that th…
Last reply by JSM, -
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I came across this tech article and it says it applies to 280Z and ZX, thought some of you might find this of use. http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm
Last reply by the_tool_man, -
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So my Rebello 3.0 liter stroker is done and it will be MS3 injected with crank fired ignition. It occurs to me that there may be dramatic differences between the 240Z and 280Z fuel tank and fuel delivery. I'm wondering what you guys who've done this have done with your systems. Besides the obvious high pressure pump of course.
Last reply by JSM, -
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Hi guys. This is the first of probably many threads and questions as I work through some of the issues on my newly acquired '77. The previous owner installed a fuel pump switch on the center console and he reminded me to use it especially upon shutdown so the pump didn't keep running. It looks like crap and I can't abide by a rigged up system that could be a safety issue. The strange thing is that the switch doesn't always have to be on for the car to run. Here are some of the details from a cold start condition this morning. The switch must be on for the car to start. You can hear the pump buzz as soon as you flip it. The engine idles roughly a…
Last reply by SteveJ,
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