Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
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Hi there, Looking for ideas to test or for THE solution to my problem. So far did not find the same topics open and closed. So at stop, everything is perfect. Stable idle at 800-900rpm. No effect of pressing clutch or brake. When gas pedal is released, rpm comes back to normal. When engines hot (above 120°) then start the troubles: 1. Gear shifting up or down: from gear 2, rpm goes up to 2000rpm on their own and only come back to lower idel when gear is engaged. During shifting, if i keep clutch down, idle comes back to normal after 1-2 seconds. And so, when engine is cold, no similar issue till temperature reaches 120°. I also remember the first …
Last reply by Labubre, -
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Hello, I am in the process of restoring my 1973 Series II 240z and am looking for someone that still has or is familiar with the factory electric fuel pump setup/wiring (AKA V-3 Modification Program). My car came with the mechanical pump and also an electric pump but the previous owner hacked into the factory wiring and really wired the electric pump in a very strange way. I want to revert the wiring to factory original. My car has both relays "A" & B" per the V-3 modification. I also have the hacked up V-3 Modification Harness B but it's way to hacked up to reuse to I found a new one on Ebay. I am having an issue with find where two wires go from the new V-…
Last reply by hls3073z, -
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Well I recently put a new inline fuel pump in my 1982 280zx 2+2. I put 4 gallons of fuel in it and tried to crank it over it's getting fuel to fuel pump but not past the fuel damper. So my question is what are my options is it possible I'm not getting enough pressure in the tank could the fuel damper be bad if so could I just remove it and run a rubber fuel line straight from the pump to the aluminum fuel lines and cut it completely out. Car sat for 10 years so my thinking is I need to replace entire fuel lines. I cleaned had tank and sending unit with paint thinner put new fuel pump and filter on it but still no fuel to rails any help be greatly appreciated Sent from …
Last reply by rabrooks, -
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I replaced the starter on my 82 280zx turbo and all the battery cables and car won't start and the starter is overheating I replaced all fuel injectors and wiring fuel lines fuel pump and drained my tank what is another possibility Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 25 replies
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Would you believe the connection pin for the coolant sensor (for the gauge) pulled out!? I had to replace the bullet connector and thus the whole wire, and while I was pulling out the slack, the thing suddenly got loose, so I kept pulling and there was the end! FYI, the pin has a wire that goes through the sensor body, to the base of the sensor, where there's a little washer-like thing that probably generates the resistance for he gauge. The sensor is hollow. It's not leaking coolant. BTW- can you get the connector for the other (EFI) coolant sensor? It looks like a fuel injector connector, but the groove is offset, probably so you don't plug it onto t…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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- 4 replies
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I'm just finalizing an engine rebuild and the car tries to crank but does not start. Went through lots of potential things that could have gone wrong and since the injectors are not spraying fuel but there is a spark we are thinking that the culprit is the ECU not sending the signal to the injectors. I have done some research and see that Pin #1 on the ECU connects directly to the negative terminal of the ignition coil, which does not seem to be the case in my situation. Can I safely reroute a fresh wire or should there be a resistor in between?
Last reply by JSM, -
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I picked up a spare AFM at the local JY, it test ok per the FSM (voltage test/resistance test/pump micro switch) but I still wanted to test it in the car. No point in having a spare part if you don't know if its going to work. Anyway a little background I was doing some vacuum testing, and was at about 17 in/hg with the orig AFM after fully warmed up. I added the 500ohm pot in series with the temp sensor and was able to pickup RPM and increase vacuum by added resistance (enriching fuel to air mix). The plug was still in place on the AFM for the idle air bypass and I did not want to mess with it since this is not really a problem, car drives great and starts fine. So while…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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- 29 replies
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i've been having intermittent hard-starting, which has culminated in total non-starting. the car has been my DD for a few months and i've replaced all the sensors, injector connectors, fuel lines and vacuum hoses. it either starts perfectly or starts after much cranking, then runs really well with no hint of fueling problems. at first i thought it was a hot-start issue, but now it will not start cold. the plugs are dry, decent color and all are providing spark - i rested them on the valve cover and cranked the motor and saw them all fire in order. fuel pressure at the rail is 35-40 psi and fuel pump is running fine. for some reason the injectors don't seem to be getti…
Last reply by Sideways78, -
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the two leads that go from the distributor to an HEI ignition module or the factory ignition box would be a good place to cut into and add a kill switch of some kind, such as a mechanical switch or a remotely-controlled relay. I have a remote relay, and it has a 10A current rating. I think the relay would work well as theft-prevention, because it doesn't require heavy wiring, like the fuel pump does, and you can easily hide the thin wires in the wire bundle. I also think that there probably isn't much current in those two sensor wires, since they only control the ignition module instead of the current going to or from the module or coil. I just wanted to c…
Last reply by jwtaylor, -
- 3 followers
- 38 replies
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So just for SAG's I decided to install the "pot" everyone's talking about. I ordered one thru zcardepot for 4 bucks. Wired it up. Simple, took maybe 20 minutes. Half of that was setting up soldering iron, etc. Installed it in the CTS harness, again, simple. Started it up and almost immediately it started to stumble. I figured I had set it wrong and turned the knob on the pot the opposite way. It got worse. Had to throttle it to keep it running. I turned the knob back and forth a couple of times with the same results. I disconnected it from the CTS harness, reconnected the original harness, started it and it ran fine. The reason I installed it, outside of curiosity, was to…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
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The 280 fuel injection relay schematic shows a resistor connected to relay pin 86b. This pin connects to the Air Flow meter fuel pump switch and the ECU pin 20. Does anyone know the value of this resistor? I purchased fairly complete 280Z fuel injection system primarily for the manifold and throttle body and would like to play with it, but am missing the relay. I'm planing to build a replacement relay as I do not want to spend the $$ for one. I am planning to go to a Megasquirt EFI in the future so buying a new stock relay would be waste of money.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I went to start up my 1976 280z and it didnt fire up, so i checked the spark and it was fine. So i took off the cover of the air flow sensor to check the fuel pump and i heard the relay click but not the fuel pump. So i took the pump out and it works then checked the power to it and had 11.8 or 11.3 volts or something. I plain to re hook up the pump to the connectors to see if it works now, and there was just something in it that i shook lose when i took it out. Is there anything else i should check or another shut off for the pump. -Thank You
Last reply by SeanT,
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