Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,434 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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Had to jump my car the other day but prior to that the lights would brighten as I give the car gas. I'm goin to try and replace the VR before replacing the whole ALT. The problem is that the orig VR has a wire spliced, it's a white/red wire from the middle column of the harness. Is this a common thing to do and do I have to splice the wire for the new VR. BTW looks like the wiring on the car has been fiddled with quite a bit. I really want to go with the MSA ALT upgrade but will the VR adapter still be a PNP set up because of this wire splice and how can I fix it? Here's a couple pics to better illustrate... the circles are where the spliced wire connects on the VR…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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I've thanked you guys plenty for all your help, but I should also take a minute to thank Mike for maintaining the site, the means by which I'm able to rack your brains. So I pulled my dash harness, repaired the oddities, and with the Factory Service Manual in-hand, I've gone about the task of re-attaching it. In this process, a few questions have arisen: 1) What is this 2-prong connector? I'd normally assume Power/Ground, but it's the only T-type I found on the dash. I located it in the FSM, but it doesn't identify where it connects to. I'm having trouble attaching photos via the URL, so I'm going to have to do them by uploading... not sure what order they'll come…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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Can anyone tell me what the heavy red wire and the blue wire on the blower sub-harnes go to. 10/70 build date
Last reply by coopdog240, -
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Wow I am going crazy. I have a '73 z 4 spd(02/73 mfg date) with the elec fuel pump and 9 pin combo (headlight/wiper/washer) switch. -MSA alt upgrade killed my battery so after research realized that it keeps the fp relay on so I disconnected it. -MSA headlight relay harness. Lights don't go on but they did prior to my son installing a refurbished turn signal switch. Read Mike W's pdf and am going to try that. -I have a few relays on the passenger side and was wondering what is what. a. I realized the FP was the warm to touch relay. b. I have another relay that has 6 pins (2 rows of 3) with wires grn-grn-blk/ylw-2 blk in same spade. c.The pigtail also conne…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 10 replies
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I finally got time to get the blue '70 out of storage and went for a drive on Sunday. On the way back, I turned on the left turn signal and smoke started coming out of the steering column. I shut everything off right away and it stopped smoking. Last night I took the cover off the steering column. None of the wires looked melted. I am guessing something inside must have fried. Anybody have that happen to them? I remembered that I bought a brand new turn signal and headlight combo switch years ago as spares. After I dug out the spare and removed the original, I started noticing that they were different. The original has two large plugs, one with 3 prongs, the other has…
Last reply by grantf, -
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I just fired up the new engine in my 71. The amp meter pegs all the way right a nd the alternator heats up. I changed the voltage regulator.....same result. Any ideas where to go next? Guy
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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A few details on the car. 1973 240z /w electronic ignition. Using ignition module E12-80. Exactly as the title says. When starting the car the tach will bounce a bit but then drops back down to zero once the car has started. When driving the tach stays at zero. Today the tach slowly crawled up to 8k and stayed there until I turned the car off. I did however read that this happens when it's hot outside and today was one of those days. So that one makes sense (to an extent). I searched but didn't find another issue like this one. Is my tach fubar'd or do I still have a hope of getting this thing working? What I found on the tach going up due to hot weather.
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 4 replies
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The alternator conversion works great, but I have a 73 with the fuel pump relay that stays on. I have done a toggle switch on the yellow power wire but this is not a great solution. I want to do a Bosch relay, that uses a switching wire from the on side of the ignition switch. I just can't figure out the Bosch relay. I think the yellow wire that feeds power to the FP relay should be wired 30 in and 87 out to the relay. Do I switch the Bosch on with 85 and ground 86 or the other way around.
Last reply by 240ZGL, -
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- 981 views
Worked into the wee hours of the night yesterday on wiring. My donor harness is nearly tapped out - anyone have a spare female connector for this 6-pin? Thanks much, Bill
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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hey, im working on a 77 280. its auto,not sure if that will help here or not. while hooking the wires up to the alt and oil sender i found a wire that im not sure where it goes. our 75 manual car doesnt have this wire. does it go to the alt also or to the block? im trying to get all the grounds straightened out since it sat for about 8 years and my headlights and wipers arent working. thanks ps, its the one standing straight up
Last reply by sam74260, -
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hi all... long time member/lurker and have a question... i sold a tach from a 1970 series one 240z to someone overseas in Brunei, which i believe is in the philipines... it came from a non-runner so am not sure of the condition of the tach prior to sale. he installed it in his 1977 260z (remember, he's overseas) and when the car is started, the needle went up to 1k rpms and stopped. turned key off and it stayed there. the previous tach did not work at all. both tachs are 4wire tachs. he says the distributor is not points and is upgraded to electronic distributor. i've searched all threads just searching "tachometer" here and at zcar.com and haven't found anything e…
Last reply by A2Z, -
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I read through most of the already posted headlight problems and got some ideas of things to check, but didn't see my exact problem listed so figured I'd check for other sources. 1971 240z - a while back, my lights wouldn't come on, high or low beam. Figured out it was the arm that was broken. Got a new one, worked fine, no problems. Now, every once in a while, they just stop working. Yesterday I got in the car, turned them on to make sure they worked, and they did. Turned them off and then back on, and nothing happened. Screwed around with it a while, got them to come on again, off, back on, and nothing again. Could be another bad arm/switch, going to check the fus…
Last reply by 5thhorsemann,
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