Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,434 topics in this forum
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Hey amigos, So, I've been trying to go through the car (a '78 280z Black Pearl) bit by bit to work out the electrical bugs (got the horn and the hi-beams working) and now I'm moving on to the tach. Since I acquired the car last September, it hasn't worked and has stayed frozen at 700 rpm. I've scoured the forum and found mostly things to do with 240z tachs, compatibility problems with aftermarket coils (mine is stock) and one thread that suggested a frozen tach was not wiring-related, but a failure in the tach itself instead. I've checked the connections at the back of the tach and they all seem clean and intact. I've also cleaned the contacts for the wires that connect …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hey there- Just inherited a '76 280z from my elderly (83) father. Of course the clock isn't working and hasn't for 15 years or so. But I also noticed the voltage gauge was almost pinned at the right of the gauge. I read the forums about bad voltage regulators, etc., so I went out and tested at the battery with a multimeter. The battery was reading 12+ with the car off. And a little more when running, and topped out at 13.7 or so when the car was held at a steady 2500 rpm. Okay, so relief there. Then I found a post about adjusting the gauge with a screwdriver from the back. This allowed me to move the needle from dead right, but the range of the adjustment wasn't near en…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I only just put electric ignition on my 260z today...(It was points) Basicly I used a 2.4l dizzy(off a 80's skyline) and a "procomp" ignition box- it converts the magnetic pulse from the dizzy to a signal that works the coil and a new epoxy type coil. It works great ie starts easier, revs quicker, nice steady idle.. BUT.. the tacho works ok at idle BUT at around 3500-4000 it goes nuts and jumps around -jump to 2000 and flicks around everywhere. It used to work with the points setup. I read some where that a 280z tacho would work BUT I'am in Australia and no 280zs here! any ideas??
Last reply by mousemedic, -
Almost two years ago, I got my dream car. A classic Datsun Z!(77 280 EFI) After trial and error working on it trying to figure out why it would not run for longer then twenty minutes I finally just pulled the motor. Blown Piston rings, crappy injectors, and after some financial issues, I finally got to finish up my rebuild this past winter. Motor is in, trans is in. My car does not work.. at all. Everything worked before the pull, now something is toasted. I have no lights, no electrical power what so ever. New batt, new cables, new terminals, new EGI relay, new ignition control module, still no juice. While testing theories the other day with a wire jumper to test connec…
Last reply by RyuZ32, -
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I just installed the MSA fuse box in my 71 Z, but the original cover does not fit. Is there a way to use the original cover with this new unit? It appears to have mounting holes pre-drilled in the inside of the box for something but no other pieces were included. Thanks for any insights Mark
Last reply by fiveleaf, -
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So I just happen to be checking over the car for summer. and noticed at idle the voltage was dropping to 0 and spiking now and then to 15-20v at battery at idle! for half a sec then back to about 13.6 but once off idle above 850 it would sit happy at 13.64 so whats the deal? bad ground? I have no lights or dim issues but some times the amp gauge sits a little on the Neg side I know the volt-regulator is adjustable but dont wanna play there yet..... any help before I get silly and take apart a running car?
Last reply by aceofspades, -
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I'm installing a Mallory Unilite dizzy w/ mechanical advance to complement my new triple Webers. My OEM dizzy had two wires (blue and black) that apparently went to the electronic ignition module. The wiring diagram with the Unilite has the wires going directly to the coil/ballast. I'm having a brain fart here and but I think that the new dizzy doesn't need the OEM ignition module since it has it already built in and that I would wire it according to the diagram and abandon the old wiring. But.....the OEM ignition module affects other stuff too (tach, etc) and somehow needs to be wired in. I've search this site and others and cannot find an answer. Most searches com…
Last reply by aceofspades, -
- 16 replies
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Well we finally had a nice day so I decided to get the old girl out of storage. After hooking up the battery and checking fluids she fired right up! As I was topping up the clutch master (slave cylinder is leaking and WAS first on the list of jobs), my son says "dad there's smoke coming from the starter." I look and sure enough the fusible link is smoking. My heart dropped as I looked to the cabin and its FULL of smoke. As quick as I can I shut her down and disconnect the battery, but it appears the damage is done. I haven't had a chance to investigate, car will be towed home today, but a preliminary look revealed melting of wires coming out of steering column, leading to…
Last reply by northernz, -
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Not sure if this is proper use of the forum but I am in need of a front RH marker light for my 76 280Z. I have some wiring but just stops at leads nothing else. I am guessing these can be spliced in if you do not have the complete light and hraness assembly.
Last reply by cbuczesk, -
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So while I was replacing rear main seals and doing a headlight realy upgrade and slapping on some Triples I decided to do that little trick to make my front marker lights blink. I referenced the Daniel Stern Lighting website that shows you how to switch the wires around so the front markers act as blinkers. The problem is that the front left blinker doesn't want to work with headlights on now.The blinkers and hazards work fine without the headlights on. Now I did notice somewhere in all this work I did with my headlight upgrade that the left front blinker wires when moved around was causing issues with bulb-like there was a short. I know I might have already answered my q…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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So I'm pulling my wiring harness before I respray the engine bay, and on the passenger's side where I'm disconnecting everything, I've run into a small problem. The passenger's side of the dash has three plugs that match with their corresponding plugs which are mounted to a big white plastic piece near the firewall on the inside of the car. Is there any proper/easy way to get these plugs out of the plastic piece? It appears they must be removed to pull the harness out, but it looks like they are clipped in on every side. As far as I can tell I'm going to be breaking a lot of tiny plastic pieces and possibly damaging them trying to get them out. Just want to make sure I'm …
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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I was getting ready to remove my alternator tonight so I started by disconnecting the wiring. Unfortunately, the brittle wire for the condenser snapped off in my hand. I assume that you can buy replacements but is there a specific type I need to ask for? Not sure if all condensers are created equal or not. Here's a pic of the one on my car before I trashed it. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Last reply by jharvat,
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