All Activity

https://zcardepot.com/products/kyb-front-shocks-struts-240z-260z-280z?srsltid=AfmBOoriVW4h-_3WRprZ41sp8sF_qxqnJ0CDZWmNcWfHwZ4lcc32N5s1 Will these one fit my 1972 240z? I would like to change the complete set. For certain both front shocks are worn. Is there a better supplier or is this one ok?

NEW PRODUCT!!!! 1970 - 1978 DATSUN 240z 260z 280z Rear Trailing Arms 3/4" Chromoly Heim joints Reinforced Mainshaft at Bushings Tested on 1000hp Drag/Drifter

Opinions please! @zKars @grannyknot @Diseazd @madkaw @Mark Maras and all you other CZC's readers. I was thinking around $200 for the bare head? I found a P90 that pushed this E31 to the kid's table.

You may as well do the brakes too, you know, while you're mechanic is out of town. Rotors/drums resurfaced/replaced and new pads/shoes.

Richard, I have been using Vredestein Sprint Classic 175HR14 88H on my ‘71 series1 Z and they are pretty much a perfect size match to the Bridgestone Super Speed Radial - 20 original tires.

This is what is so fantastic about this site and the rare types of parts that are needed and pretty much unavailable to purchase new. Thanks to everyone for helping to keep these Ladies on the road!

Also: https://www.vredestein.com/classic-tires/products/990-SPRINT-CLASSIC/ Tire Rack link for the above tires: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Sprint+Classic&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=7HR4SC&tab=Sizes

The tread design of the Michelin XAS 175 HR14 looks pretty close to original. Here's a photo of my original spare tire of my 12/70 car.

Parts are on the way. Bonzi Lon

My 7-73 still has it. It has very sharp edges and I've cut myself on it several times in the past 48 years. Bonzi Lon

KYB makes good shocks. I have used them on other vehicles and not been disappointed.

Im just asking for good quality absorbers ths has nothing to do with the vapor lock condition leading to rough acceleration.

Look here: https://cokertire.com/amfinder/index/index?finder_id=33511382

I have a set of original 4.5 inch steel wheels, but I'm having trouble getting 175 HR-14 tires. One tire shop traced back the "HR" designation and said it would be 1.5 inches greater in diameter than any 14-nch made today. I'm trying to get my '71 240Z back as close to original as possible, and I have the original restored hubcaps and 4.5 inch steel wheels. Any thoughts, wisdom or suggestions would be appreciated.

Mechanic is still at Orlando. Meanwhile i need to sort the shock absorber issue. KYB?

What condition is your EFI harness? Have you replaced all of the connectors? I fought it forever. Finally reworked and soldered each connector, cleaned each contact and was amazed.

TPS passed the multimeter test. Next testing the AFM.

Update….. wound up stripping all the recently applied paint off 2446 due to ……well… a misunderstanding of the quality expected is a nice way to put it… New paint….better prep, better paint ….more controlled environment to apply has resulted in a more better virtually perfect paint reapplication. Have rebuilt, restored the quarter trim of both 51 and vin 2446 …. Polished up up few sets for future use. Vin 51 is in the same boat of unsatisfactory paint application….. soon to address that as well….. Cleaned up and flipped over the dash front cover trim, of 2446, I’m believing this is the true color “light greenish”… of both this part and possibly the correct hue of green for horns as well? Comments?

Those are some really nice upgrades to the base model examples. Were there "pre-package" Euro deliveries which did not have some of these package features, or were they pretty much all grey market from Australia & elsewhere? Also, which of the described features were on all of the Euro deliveries, or were things like spoilers an extra cost option?

That sounds pretty good. The front of the car takes a pretty heavy beating over time as well. So, agree with Grannynot - part of the hood. You may want to do the front surfaces of the headlight housings and the three front lower panels as well. I think below the blue lines here: I think it best not to cut the edge so it is on the radius of a body line. Instead, I would cut it at the beginning of where starts to roll from flat... so about a 1/8th of an inch below that body line above. With flares, you will need to do something with the front of the rear flares as well. My track Z started getting beat up there quickly. I put electrical tape on (I like the silver and black contrast). I planned on getting something like the Porsche 930 has, but just never have. If you need to go with clear, consider doing something like this on the quarter panel. It will be visible. On the Z you may want to go from the front edge of the quarter panel (door opening) and along the 'waist line' body line... go far enough back to cover the front third of the flare and radius/curve the top edge down, so the PPF terminates covering about the front 1/4 to 1/3rd of the flare surface. The top and front edges of PPF will collect a bit of dirt over time. Just something to be aware of.

Heating + vice grips did the trick! I'd still like to learn the name of that fitting and get the proper tool for my toolbox.

I tried that sheet metal trick. I found a stout piece that fix snugly in the slot. It just bent the sheet metal! Since the coefficient of thermal expansion (Cte) of aluminum is around 23 but steel is only around 12, heating it should cause the alum to open more and loosen it's grip. On to the propane!

I think it's 4.225? thick?

Any input on a price, bare head, would be graciously appreciated. 😁

I would stay focused on the hot idle in traffic you have been talking about. If you haven't noticed the rough ride from worn suspension I wouldn't be concerned what the quick oil guys say. You'll see that in the wear of your tires. Google "240z struts". They aren't shocks.