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You need to add more detail. When, and exactly where? There are three "lugs". Actually two lugs and a spade. SteveJ is asking about the spade (black and yellow wire). With the key at Start. The 12 is a good sign though.

.65 at the bottom lug and 12 volts on the top lug

Slide hammer is not a bad idea, but good look finding that thread pitch. I have vague memories of using a rag and a pair of vise-grips, with a hammer tapping sideways on the pliers. Or maybe a big screwdrive levering on it. Anyway they do get stuck. Nothing special in there. I found a new Z store. TotalZPartsDatsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX Speedometer Pinion Gear...NOS (new old stock) speedometer pinion gear full assembly, including the sleeve, seals, and the retaining pin. It has a 17-teeth gear & measures about 3 1/16" in total length. 18, 19, & 20 teeth ge...

That's 222° is at .050" lift if that makes any difference.

Are you sure? The diagram shows a left side and a right side, from the Hazard switch. It's a 78, I didn't look at any other diagrams. The Hazard switch is basically a gate between power and the flasher, and the lights. Since the flasher comes in to play the short to power has to include the flasher circuit. Basically it's just completing the circuit, like a short across contacts inside the switch. Interesting problem. For what it's worth, I erased about three different paragraphs about this problem. Writing about it does help the brain work...

That O’ring on the external assembly has probably dried up and that’s your issue.

Join the club and be a subscriber and that won’t be an issue. It’s keeping this site alive at this point. IMHO

When you say G3 are you referring to the fram?

That duration of 222 IMO is not aggressive enough to even worry about.

I really hoped the holiday weekend might create distraction enough to get for a little better price...Not to be.. David Spillman

@Mike

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$137,000. Kind of amusing that the bulk of the discussion on BaT was about AC and undercoating. Bring a TrailerVintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a Vintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #199,214.

That cam doesn't look very aggressive. Not like a typical rumpety-rump muscle car V8 cam. Probably won't cause a problem. I've seen belt-driven vacuum pumps. You could probably add one after the fact if you find that you need it. Looks like you can get electric also. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/vacuum-pumps-street

Older thread, I know. But I'm on the hunt for a proper pre-filter, having just learned that the G3 is too restrictive. I just got finished restoring my fuel tank and coating it with Red-Kote. My preference would be all of these in decreasing order of priority: 100 micron filtering. 3/8" barb fittings, or threaded so I can provide my own. Clear body, so I can see if Red-Kote failed, rust, etc. Not glass, for obvious reasons. Inexpensive compared to those racing filters that cost hundreds of dollars. I haven't found anything that matches all of these. Being clear and not glass seems to be the unobtainable feature. But there are options that aren't clear, and meet all the others. I'm currently running no filter,, and really need to install something ASAP. Looking at going with one of these inexpensive aluminum-bodied filters: https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-Universal-Aluminum-Gasoline/dp/B0DN6SH631/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1KOAAR2TYSE5R&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.p_O7PvRTWOlBskuqunz5j1hb3qgTtqxuxTRwI_k3iJGFft3lAuJQ9dBkfGtH6RUnk8BnmLd6jbNIeSbCMHq6yOLpudvAuIvg28_HnsEirBDW5yuzLC0UXo-IywBRhaLhc7VhdL3reL-MrorDb1I7DBNGdvzQ8GLF33hzosp18jWgf6W3FXldklMcZ7D6IhpkSnMS_k53IFnXQ98ROHfPRKCSNrxPCddjjdLxr1OzYBs.alzow_qg4vB6MChEDLoyk3aaTUBwCPw2cXBaKVCu2rQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=100%2Bmicron%2Bfuel%2Bfilter%2B3%2F8%2Bclear&qid=1751743955&sprefix=100%2Bmicron%2Bfuel%2Bfilter%2B3%2F8%2Bclear%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-3&th=1 Has anyone tried one of these, or something better? Again, not being clear means I'll have to open it and check the element periodically. But I don't see a better option.

I have a slight leak at where the speedometer cable connects to the transmission. I ordered some seals but I'm unable to remove the pinion to install them. I removed the metal tab that holds it in place and can twist it with a lot of effort with a pair of channel locks (without damaging the threads) but only in one direction and it does not move out. I looked at this video but it wasn't too helpful: Can anyone offer a suggestion? Maybe thread something onto the threads and use a slide hammer or something to tap it out?

I'm a member of about 20 different forums. This one has more ads, BY FAR, than all of the others.

Hey guys Im having my Z completely restored and while at the body shop we go into a rather interesting discussion about the brake boosters. I am updating the cam on my Z to a mile regrind (.450 lift 222°) and my body shop guy brought up a concern. He owns a bunch (read: dozens) of old Mopars that he's updated the cams in and in most of them updating the cam leads to the brake booster being very ineffective due to the reduced vacuum. (example: In his Roadrunner, the brakes will work just fine...the first time, but if you press and let go and press again not so much). So question, for those who have updated their cams, did you have any issues with the brake booster afterwards? Thank Jan

Here we go again! Someone who should know better claims that the Z Store program car currently offered for sale on BAT was undercoated from the factory, it WASN"T!! How do I know this? I PERSONALLY, not from an article I read in a car mag, not from something a collector with 50 Z cars in her collection wrote somewhere, not from what a general manager @ a contemporary Nissan dealer told someone, undercoated lots and lots of 240Zs, 510s, 1200s and trucks while working as a Datsun mechanic in the 70s. We were paid 3/10ths of an hour labor for each car we undercoated. NONE of the models indicated had factory undercoating. Now, we occasionally see the rare Z offered for sale that were not dealer , or otherwise, undercoated. The factory paint applied to the bottom was often uneven, but not always , thin, thick, or just plain sloppy. Therefore, some internet experts will claim that it was a Datsun factory type of unique undercoating. OK, while you're certainly entitled to your opinion that doesn't make you correct. Here's one that, I'm confident, will shake the bushes. None of the Datsun models mentioned above came with grease fittings from the factory. That's right, NO GREASE FITTINGS. During the Per Delivery Inspection, PDI, or @ the 1K service we installed them, or were paid another 3/10ths to do so. Unfortunately in many, many, cases this meant that the tie rod ends and ball joints were grossly over greased . I don't know why but I saved a handful of the removed blind plugs and installed them on the 240s that Banzai Motorworks sent along to Gold Medallion awards in the stock 240 class. Did the judges notice? Don't know, probably didn't, but I knew that I'd done the right thing. (No charge) I hope everyone had a safe and fun 4th holiday. Cheers

Discussions about what starter is better than others and how rebuilt starter's quality can be hit or miss have popped up from time to time. The starter on my 79 zx was getting slower and without even checking it with my multimeter I knew it was time to install a new one. I opted for the WAI new starter from Rock Auto. ($150.00 ) It arrived well packaged, including bench test results and really looked like a quality made part. I installed it yesterday and I'm really happy with it. It sounds great and really spins the engine over much faster that my old one did in years. I hope it will last!

If only the left side is blinking with the hazard switch, that means you have another problem as both sides should be blinking with that switch.

I’ll check tomorrow, thanks

This is all great stuff. Thanks. I'll dig into it this weekend. The Hazard light circuit is a high contender since it is the only one to bypass the ignition power circuit. The second thing that points to this is that I took the turn/combination switch/stalk out, unplugged it, and it was still going.

Do you have power to anything when the key is in ACC or ON? Have you checked for voltage at the black/yellow wire for the starter solenoid when someone is holding the key in START? Start there and tell us what you find.

@Mike