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Found a picture that I took in the "let's see if that would really work" phase. In this picture the "mounting plate" (thin piece of flat aluminum) wasn't trimmed such that it would fit the clamshell. That took a bit of further modification to the shape of that plate. But it did prove that the toggle switch would be actuated by the stock turn signal components. I do not have dimensions without disassembling it. I also think it required a bit of trim on the switch handle for the end of it to fit properly in the "plastic thingy" of the turn signal assembly. (plastic thingy - which happens to be on thingaverse as a 3d printable item...) I got this metal toggle at O'Reilly but they can be had everywhere. You can see that the stock switch is much more compact and a little searching might find a smaller toggle than this one - and possibly with less protrusive electrical connectors... I wanted something simple and common.

I am replacing my gas tank (rust issues) with a new one from S30. I have everything unhooked but the main filler hose that is connected to the tank. I've used slip joint plies that won't budge it and also gentle heating with a heat gun. The tank has been empty for months and i blew a bunch of air through it first. Also afraid that if I get the rubber too soft I might just deform it with the pliers. It looks like new main filler hoses are going for about 125 to 175 dollars so I want to avoid that. Right now the tank is just hanging loose under the car on a support I've set up. Any ideas are welcomed.

I didn't replace the turn signal - just the switch. And it can only be done relatively simply in the '74-'78. 240Z switches have too many contacts and functions intertwined with the overly complicated hazard switch to be replaced by a simple three position rocker switch. If I didn't have to take mine apart in the 100+ Arizona heat, I'd take a picture. I'll see if I can find the post that put me in that direction - it was not my brainchild.

I've worked with both and they're basically the same but the 240Z switch has two arms and double the contacts plus an extra for the hazard switch bypass. They definitely figured a less complicated circuit starting with the 260.

Ha! That links back to a post I did almost 7 years ago about using pop rivets to secure the sqeegee rubber to the belt molding, similar to how I did the replacment fuzzy strips to the door panel. @Patcon Charles, If you need some info I can pull off a molding and get some pics of the pop rivets.

Here's what I came up with. Sorry to be late Charles. https://www.google.com/search?q=chrome+door+trim+window+sweeps+classiczcars.com&sca_esv=4aa233782b511ba8&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&ei=sHp2aOugI72TwbkPlr_I2Qg&ved=0ahUKEwjruOPMnb-OAxW9STABHZYfMosQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=chrome+door+trim+window+sweeps+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiL2Nocm9tZSBkb29yIHRyaW0gd2luZG93IHN3ZWVwcyBjbGFzc2ljemNhcnMuY29tMggQABiABBiiBDIIEAAYgAQYogQyCBAAGIAEGKIEMggQABiiBBiJBTIIEAAYgAQYogRIpV9Q5QZYnztwAXgAkAEAmAGBAqABwhKqAQYwLjE3LjG4AQPIAQD4AQGYAhKgAqgSwgIOEAAYgAQYsAMYhgMYigXCAggQABiwAxjvBcICCxAAGIAEGLADGKIEwgILEAAYsAMYogQYiQXCAgUQABjvBcICChAhGKABGMMEGArCAgQQIRgKmAMAiAYBkAYJkgcGMS4xNi4xoAeNT7IHBjAuMTYuMbgHoxLCBwYwLjQuMTTIBzo&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Thanks Jim! Thanks for the input Garrett. I was using google exactly that way and couldn't find it...

@cgsheen1 Can you provide an example of a turn signal you used as a replacement?

Did you clean all the new rotors with brake cleaner when installing them?

No biggie, just funning. There are some maybe's. I have a bunch of switches, just not marked as to what they are from. I rely on the visual differences. Graphics, plugs, wires, etc. They did change the switch plugs over the years too. I purchased the headlight and the parking/taillight harness from Dave Irwin long ago and have not had a problem since. I have H4 headlight bulbs and bright tail/ side lights. I did open and clean all my switches myself as well. Made all the difference. Still working well.

Oops. My post was about the "maybe". We're still on maybe. Maybe somebody has a 240Z and a 280Z switch that they could compare. Not that it would matter much. Just interesting.

I don't think I have ever quoted myself in a reply 😂 New territory!!

Did Nissan ever sell the internals separately? All I see is whole assemblies.

Not saying the internal did not change along the way. Part number changes could just be partly related to the graphics on the switch as well. They never sold the internals as separate items that I have heard of.

I wonder if it's more of an early Z problem. Looks like Nissan changed the switch a few times over the years. Datsun Z Electric Unit & Switch...Datsun Z Electric Unit & Switch (2) Index

For me at least, this has been an extremely common problem. On BOTH my personal car and many - if not all - the Z's that came through the shop and throughout the Z community here in Phoenix. Yes, there may be too much amperage going though those contacts as resistance builds up in the wire and connectors BUT: What I have found in every turn signal switch I've repaired (and that has been MANY) is - The original chrome plating on the solid contacts (non-moving) has worn off due to repeated electric arcing across the contact. When you clean the carbon off it leaves a nice brass contact surface that fouls MUCH more quickly. Therefore, depending on your use, you get another 6 months to a year or so before you have to repeat the contact cleaning process. Then your flashers work well enough for a time and have to be taken apart again. (and, you can only un-bend and re-bend those metal tabs that hold the switch together a certain number of times...) My flasher switch (which I have absolutely no idea if it was original to the car) worked well for a few years before I had to take it apart and clean the carbon fouled contacts. Then it became a 6-9 month cycle. I finally got tired of that and bought a different turn signal switch assembly off the internet. I was delighted that it worked well and lasted for quite a few years. I'll remind everyone that I daily drive my 260Z so my T/S get a fair amount of use. (I got this Z running and back on the road Spring of 2009) DROPPING THE AMPERAGE going through the switch will definitely help the contacts to last longer (foul less). But I don't think it's necessarily the ultimate answer. In my case, that didn't last forever either, and I am done with taking the stock switches apart and cleaning, and cleaning, and cleaning the contacts. SO, I followed another dudes post somewhere and replaced the stock switch with a standard metal 3-position rocker switch mounted such that the arm of the rocker is operated by the stock turn signal arm mechanics. Did it about a year and a half ago and I've been very satisfied with the operation. I can buy another one practically anywhere if I ever need to replace it. Under the clam shell you'd never know it was swapped looking at it. That was my solution. I will say too that MY 260Z IS HEAVILY MODIFIED and is not trying to be original in it's representation at all. In fact lately I have replaced my entire engine bay harness and replaced all the stock wiring connectors with Deutsch connectors. As well as a new engine harness built for a different ECU and sheathed with Raychem. The SECOND thing I will mention: IF you remove the actual switch from the turn signal assembly and push it's little "nubin" that sticks out from side-to-side you'll notice that it goes full motion and insures that the rocker piece(s - if you have a 240) inside will spring solidly onto the fixed contacts EVERY SINGLE time. Now screw it back onto the assembly and watch it's movement. Even when the assembly parts are NEW, they won't move the switch fully from side-to-side! That sliding piece of plastic with the hole moves enough generally to cause the rocker to fall one way or another, but NOT full motion. As that piece of plastic wears against the metal it makes that action more and more sloppy. It affects the action one direction MORE than the other. SO, your LEFT SIDE SIGNAL going away is common. Usually it won't just disappear - it'll become "finicky" and works sporadically usually requiring you to move the T/S lever again or wiggle it to get it engaged (and the V-shaped bar to teeter all the way to one side). I may have pictures of the turn signal switch disassembled but I'm sure they can be found on the interweb. I tried a few things to combat that problem as well, but in the end moving to a new toggle switch solved both problems.

It's a bit spotty... You may have to try it after a page refresh. I need to run some upgrades soon and I'll let you know if it's more reliable ...

Charles, here are some pics of the belt molding and squeegee rubber on my car. Hope this helps with your question and yes, the rubber does trim out inside the window frame.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Z-Car-Garage-197-copy.jpg Speedhunters, the popular car culture website, appears to be inactive. While there’s no official announcement of the site’s demise, like many fans and followers of the site we are disappointed. Speedhunters was known for its high-quality photography and in-depth stories about car culture. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Z-Car-Garage-10-copy-1.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/012_2018-SH-JCCS-Booths-Trevor-Ryan.jpg We’ve gathered all 14(!) Speedhunters articles featuring Z Car Garage clients and friends here for you all to enjoy. Who knows how long the site will remain on the web, so click on the photos or links below to read the full features by authors/photographers Trevor Ryan, Naveed Yousufzai, Larry Chen and Mike Garrett. Z Car Garage Shop Tour http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Z-Car-Garage-59-copy-1.jpg Gary’s OS Giken TC24-powered 1971 Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Z-Car-Garage-199-copy.jpg Eric Straw’s RB26DETT-Powered 1984 DR30 Skyline http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Louis_Yio_2017_Speedhunters_RB_Skyline_033.jpg James’ 1972 Datsun 240Z Turbocharged L-Series http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/MG_4184.jpg Driving While Awesome: Coastal Range Rally http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_0937CRRRewind2019-For-SpeedHunters-By-Naveed-Yousufzai-1.jpg The Joel Anderson IMSA GTU Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Z-Car-Garage-27-copy.jpg Alvin’s 1967.5 SR20-Powered Datsun Roadster-by Trevor Ryan http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/2019-Kyusha-Festival-Datsun-2000-Spotlight_Trevor-Ryan-Speedhunters_001_7722-1.jpg DWA Rally From Home http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_2348.jpg Mr. K’s Personal Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_9938MrK-240z-For-SpeedHunters-By-Naveed-Yousufzai.jpg Eric Staw’s 1969 SR20DET-powered Datsun Roadster http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/IMG_8368EricStraw-FairladyRoadster-For-SpeedHunters-By-Naveed-Yousufzai.jpg Gary’s 1971 Nissan Skyline 2000GT http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Z-Car-Garage-183-copy.jpg Alvin’s SR20-powered Datsun Roadster-by Mike Garrett http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/Z-Car-Garage-64-copy-1.jpg The 2018 Japanese Classic Car Show http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/001_2018-SH-JCCS-Booths-Trevor-Ryan.jpg The 2018 Mitty Vintage Races http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/2018-SPEEDHUNTERs-Matt-Dockery-Classic-Motorsport-Mitty-01-2n.jpg View the full article

You need to use the more options feature. At that point you can put in a date range. You probably also need to experiment with the search terms. I think I found what you're looking for this time: https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=%22door%20trim%22&quick=1&updated_before=1735603200&updated_after=1609459200&sortby=newest&search_and_or=and

Did you remove the check valve on the booster vacuum line at any time? If you installed it backwards that will cause the problem you are describing.

Do you know about the special site: search? It limits searches to just that one site. If not, try to paste this into a google search: chrome door trim site:classiczcars.com

@Mike Lately when I try to use the Report function for the spammers, I click on the Report button and just get the Windows spinning wheel of death. Is the function working?

Happy to explore discussions, share experiences, and learn something new along the way. I enjoy hearing diverse viewpoints and contributing whenever I can. Happy to hear different experiences and connecting with others. Here is my web-site:AutoMisto24 https://automisto24.com.ua/

There's nothing stopping the fluid flow when bleeding, that's why the pedal drops to the floor. The fact that the pedal is hard after bleeding shows the bleeding was effective. All of the air was removed. Before, when you were pumping the pedal you were comnpressing air in the hydraulic lines. Brake fluid is not very compressible, air is. Overall, really, what you're describing just sounds like a booster that's not boosting. No vacuum source or a mechanical problem internally. The system is designed for the force amplification of the vacuum booster. A simple test for a bad booster is to press the pedal with the engine off and note the distance, then compare it to a press with the engine on. The pedal should sink more with the engine on. You changed several parts at the same time so it can be hard to figure out which part had which effect. I would first confirm that you have vacuum to the booster. Do the test above or just start the engine and remove the hose from the booster. The engine should rev higher or die. If it does, you have a booster problem. If it doesn't yoor vacuum hose is blocked.