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Rust free doors and hatch. Coupe. Black panels. All complete. No keys. $1200.00 Local pickup. These pieces are heavy.

I wasn't taking sides on the cadmium versus zinc issue. I have no knowledge or expertise to bring to bear on that topic. 26th-Z said "but how does this all matter", which is what HS-30H was referring to with the Brute quote. I think one of the hallmarks of this group is believing that details matter. My comment was meant to commend that behaviour. And Zed, you're definitely one of the people who cares about detail in my view. I don't always enjoy the exchanges themselves, but I think we all benefit from the willingness to engage, and the level of knowledge that results. Sorry that I wasn't clear.

Here's a '76 for $50K. I've never seen black and white photos in a For Sale add before. https://www.facebook.com/share/1BGfX7jc26/

The hazard light switch is in that circuit, it could be confusing the issue.

Thanks guys, I will measure the old/cracked fan vs the new replacement one. I am actually facing a different issue on top of the cracked fan blades. After I removed/reinstalled the tranny and installed a new TC, I started hearing some hitting noises coming from the front of the car. I think my fan got too close to my HALL sensor mount and would occasionally hit it (especially when warmed up). I fab'ed 2 shims to move the clutch/fan assembly forward by 3 mm: And here is how close the fan is to my HALL sensor mount:

I found on my car, vin is about 14,000 early car, the car had a hazard switch with the short harness. The longer harness one I had messed everything up. I don't believe they are interchangeable

Powder also eats into your carparts that otherwise could be saved. co2 does not do that and i don't know overthere but overhere a co2 fire extinguisher has almost the same price..

Just curious what you have on your dash above the hazard switch? Was thinking of an indicator light for driving lights, but was curious what others have done? Did you leave it just stock blank or add something? Pictures would be nice,,,,, any advice is helpful Thanks

Well, a quick update...... Got the wiring checked out and used a decent meter to find that the wire to the hazard flasher was intact to the fuse box. Retested and found 12V on the Blue/white wire at the flasher unit. I have another hazard switch so was going to try that.......AS I was pulling and messing with the wires on the back of the hazard switch, I tried the hazards again, and it all worked....... hate that. Must be a bad connection or wire issue so I am assuming the switch is bad. But the switch I have has longer pigtails and different emblem on the toggle switch than the one in the car, so either need to rebuild the existing switch or get another one........ I guess I will replace my accessory relay too, since mine looks bad. Might as well replace the flasher unit for the hazards. I did see that there is different part numbers for the turn signal flasher and the hazard flasher...... Need to figure that one out. Getting closer to the answers, thanks for all that have responded

cgsheen was letting people know that the new Nissan fan he bought flexed and let the blades get pulled in to his radiator. That's a concern to be aware of. Maybe the replacment fans are more flexible than factory issued fans. I was responding to suggest that maybe it was his fan clutch that caused it, not the qualities of the fan. Could also be that his Koyo radiator did not flow as much air as the factory radiator and this caused a lower pressure inside the fan shroud. Just trying to save darom's radiator.

🤓

Maybe that would have been better off on another post. Totally threw off where to get an NOS or comparable fan. Difficult sometimes to understand what the post was about originally unless you begin at the beginning. I hope you understand what I’m trying to say. Thanks

That was for @cgsheen1 Maybe the fan speed was higher than design, from a stuck fan clutch, causing more blade flex in to the radiator.

So I've been working on struts. Had a hard time getting the second one apart. Strut shaft kept turning in the "D" shaped hole. Got it apart and found this: Hoping I can dot a couple weld lumps in there to mitigate that issue. More news as it develops.

Thanks for the recommendation. I think my wipers work. My current plan is it's not going to rain while I'm on the road.

I've been maintaining a wiring diagram for the early cars. It's currently version 8, and you can find a copy here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/69026-1970-wiring-diagram/page/7/?&_rid=23457#findComment-676548 It's not large or laminated, but it's accurate.

That is the accessory relay. On my mid-1970 car, that accessory relay sends power to the rear defroster and the heater blower. I don't know how frequently they were making changes to the wiring system, but I suspect your 1/71 is the same. Does any of that info matter to your turn signal issue? No. Haha!! ☺️

Sounds like he was only concerned with the condition of the fan itself unless I missed something in earlier posts.

@SteveJ Wiring issue?

With the additional pics, I stand by the assessment that it's a Fall 1970 car with a rolled over odometer. It'a no "survivor" requiring a minor wash and buff. It's got all the wear and modifications and aftermarket parts that are typical with such a car. Oh, and a poorly applied re-paint. The annoying part is that the seller knows that some of the major claims in his listing are false. And he hasn't changed it. I do think, however, if he cleaned it all up and took copious good quality pictures, it would do better. As it sits, I don't think it's going to sell. And I think the seller knows it. I think at this point, it has become a test. Just to see what happens. If I didn't know better and bought that car, and then found this thread later?? Man, I'd be upset.

Not even the mice.

Nobody's taken the bait yet though.

The seller seems like a bald-faced liar. How do all of those spider webs stay intact if the engine ran for even a few seconds? It has the classic "sheep-skin" seat covers. "This is an early VIN (HLS30-10683) Series 1 240Z, built in late 1969, ... This is an unrestored, preserved survivor — a prime candidate for either a light cosmetic restoration or to keep as an authentic time capsule. Driving & Mechanical: Engine turns freely and runs, though due to extended storage, it is recommended that the buyer perform a full service before regular driving. All original mechanical components remain intact. Documentation: Original mileage verified through ownership history."

The battery tray looks pretty good if you ignore the 5# mouse nest underneath it 😀

Cool, super helpful. I found it sitting right where you show it.......... Switched the hazard and turn signal flasher, and the turn signal still work. No hazards....... I got out the factory wiring, and it shows the blue / white wire should be 12V from the fuse box. I just used my meter and I don't have 12V at the wire at the flasher. Actually no 12v on either wire.....Will go check the fuse box again,,,,,,,, I did noticed that when I have the hazard switch turned on the turn signals don't work. As soon as I turn the hazards off, the turn signals work fine. That looks to be correct with the wiring diagram and give me "some" assurance that the hazard switch is working correctly......