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You're welcome. Verified that it works. I advised someone else to purchase the relay from JBugs after I diagnosed the relay failed in his 77. He slapped in the new relay, and his car ran fine.

Thank you! I was about to order one from Lithuania.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/071906059.html

Replying to this thread a few years later - The Bosch relays have become extrmely hard to find now and are being sold for $200+ if you can even find them. are there any solutions for this? I need to replace this relay to get my engine running but im planning on moving to a megasquirt system in the future.

Of course I think of you every time I wear that shirt. Wish you could have made it to the show. Miss the opportunity to share a beer with you!

No. The tach is connected indirectly.

Wow, road worn! That t-shirt made it back to Tennessee and even looks better than it did in Memphis. Thanks for the pictures, have fun. You just got me good...

Just thinking if he wired it incorrectly could it damage the tachometer?

I got no words... This is right now. Couldn't be more appropriate.

Grab another tach off eBay and go from there.

Changed out fuel filters from 2015 when I did all the work on my 240. Anyone that may be on the fence about Red-Kote fuel tank liner, done the right way it's fantastic from what these filters show or don't show. Heres the G2 right out of the tank. It looked great besides being 10 years old. Fuel came out clear to as I drained out about a gallon before my dumbasss realized the hose on the tank had to be clamped off. Lawnmower gas.😊 I haven't fooled with mine since a knee surgery sidelined me but after @Captain Obvious's heroic adventure got me fired up enough to at least do something. If that beer guzzling rascal can do what he did, ain't nobody got an excuse.😂

Couldn't help you with that, but I doubt either part would keep the tach from operating if it's wired properly (the tach and coil) . And if it's running - and running well - why would you think there might be an issue between the MSD coil and Pertronix module? The distributor module (Pertronix, points, 280ZX "matchbox", whatever) gathers info from the crankshaft and sends a "signal" for the coil to fire. It momentarily asserts a Ground on the coil "-" terminal. The rotor "distributes" the released coil energy to the various spark plugs at the appropriate time. If any of that isn't working properly there would be no well running engine.

Thanks for the continued support guys! The car has a total of 71000 miles. And looking at the condition, it's a true 71000. So it's typical sketchy details when buying something like this used, but it appears the odometer has not rolled over. And of those miles, I've put about 1400 of them on since I got the car on the road. 400 before departing for Nashville, and about 1000 to got here.

It's a EX-mouse.. 🤣

Bruce, how many miles have you driven now as i got no idea, a 1000? In my country you can't drive 350 km, you run out of land! :-) Mart.(in)

I would like to clarify that I dont know the specifications of this msd blast 2 coil. I do know it did solve the rough idle and the misfire issue when coming out of a long traffic jam. Its connected to the pertronix 1761 module installed in the stock hitachi distributor. Just wondering if this msd coil compatible with this petronix module in anyway?

I reckon that they saw the PA license plates and determined that if you were crazy enough to drive it down to Nashville, your car deserved to be seen with the rest of the cars.

Congrats Bruce! The hatch strut is holding!

That front bumper is going to take 1st place hands down!!! Great job Bruce on making the trip!

Great Job Bruce!!!

Sometimes the journey is more rewarding that the show, congrats on all your efforts to make it to the event! Let's see what it can do on the track.

Proof I made it! This is at the judged show. I wasn't ever able to register though because I think it was full. But the zcon organizers liked the car and told me to park it on the show field anyway. Im honored!!

@Yarb has been trying to track down an electrical problem…

Thanks for the mention! I just updated the thread as I’m diving head first into the AFM rabbit hole. Some tips I picked up on my journey: - Clean all the electrical connectors to the sensors (also the bullet connectors in the harness). - Measure the resistance to the AFM air temperature sensor and the coolant temperature sensor to make sure there within spec (coolant sensor is one of the most important sensors in the EFI system!). - Buy or borrow a timing gun and make sure the timing is set correctly. - Verify you are getting enough spark (right type and gap spark plugs, distributer contacts in good condition, ignition coil resistance within spec (0,8 to 1 Ohm)). - Install a wideband O2 sensor with gauge (cheap Chinese one is good enough for now) or if you don’t have a bung in you exhaust buy an exhaust sniffer so you can measure you AFR (Air Fuel Ratio). Idle should be around 14,7 and wide open throttle 12,5 I believe. - Try and see (while monitoring the AFR) if only you idle or the entire rpm range is out of spec. If it’s only idle maybe try and play with the idle air screw on the AFM to get the idle AFR back into spec. And If nothing work only then take the AFM off the car and start testing the resistance values. The number 7 pin is hard to measure the resistance so you must hook it up to a battery (9 or 12V) to test the output voltage on the number 7 pin. If you determine that that is your issue then welcome to my world! As you are based in the US maybe an AFM rebuilt offered by jdm-car-parts or Z-store is an option for you. Unfortunately I am not so it would cost an fortune to do so for me in postage and import tariffs.

Little update as I don’t have much time to work on the car. After connecting the AFM to a spare battery and testing the voltage on pin 7 I noticed very inconsistent voltage readings and a lot of gaps in the carbon track even though it doesn’t look damaged. And yes I know the AFM has a logarithmic scale with a range of 0 – 9 Volt, Its basically just a voltage divider and a potentiometer in one. Here is a picture I found together with the link and some other useful links (last one is for a Range Rover but it’s the same concept and same Bosch style AFM). https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/AFMadjust.html After a bunch of searching I did fine more reference pictures of the Datsun 7 pin AFM’s and other Bosch AFM modules of the same type, that bend is 100% not supposed to be there. I did notice that if I press the copper part of the wiper hard against the carbon track I do get some sort of reading but so maybe somebody tried to “fix” the AFM by bending the wiper. Unfortunately the track has failed in its entirely and I can’t find anybody that can fix the circuit board. Enlarging the bolt slots and moving the wiper to a fresher part of the track also didn’t work. This lead me deep into the Bosch AFM rabbit hole that is the world of Datsun / BMW / Porsche forums. I found an Australian forum post that mentions a slightly larger 90’s Toyota AFM being plug and play for his L28E 280Z(X?) with the part number F201 13 210 (197100-3420). This is also a 7 pin style AFM With the same internal (and pin) layout as the Datsun 7 pin AFM’s. When looking if I could find this AFM in Europe I actually found one at a local junkyard from a 1988-1992 2.2i GT Turbo 12V Ford (USA) Probe for €25,- so I ordered it immediately to try and test this theory (same AFM was also used on the Mazda 626 and 929, also found a part number from Standerd "MF9107"). The original post did mention you need to loosen the tension on the flap by 3 teeth as the flap is bigger than the Datsun AFM’s. https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/6951-larger-afm-for-a-280zx If this doesn’t work I will continue to look for an replacement Datsun AFM that doesn’t break the bank (I know, that’s a tough one). I might also look into making a custom plug and play MAF swap. I found a US based company called Split Second that makes MAF to AFM conversion modules and MAF conversion kits for BMW’s. They also have a 0-9 Volt module (PSC1-009) that might work with the stock Datsun ECU in theory. https://splitsec.com/product/psc1-009-programmable-signal-calibrator-afm-to-maf-hv-output https://splitsec.com/wp-content/uploads/technotes/TN2_AFM_to_MAF_Conversion.pdf And yes I will post all my findings online as there isn’t much information to be found about AFM sensors and there alternatives. Also no I don’t want to carb swap my car, I want to stay EFI but don’t want to spend thousands yet to upgrade the entire EFI system. If anybody has a 0-5 Volt (or 5-0 Volt) AFM module that needs a rebuild / modernization I found an interesting company in Switzerland called SyncroSweets that swaps the wiper potentiometer for a modern programable potentiometer that’s plug and play. https://www.syncrosweets.ch/en/luftmengenmesser