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I had a 1978 igntion switch with that problem. I was able to fix it by restaking the copper contact with a chisel. You'll need to remove the switch and disassemble it. Or, it could be that the mechanical portion is worn and not turning the electrical contact far enough. I fixed that on my 76 by putting some extra twist in the rod between the mechanical and electrical parts. Once you get the switch out and examine it you can test either possibility with a meter. Stole this from ZCarDepot to show the staked contacts. https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-starter-switch-240z-260z-280z-510 And here's the back side where the rod inserts.

Steve, The source of the problem has to do with the ignition switch and/or the ignition key receptor. The solenoid is working as it should. Zed Head, I have narrowed down the problem to the ignition switch and/or the barrel that accepts the key. As is, both keys are originals and I'm thinking they might need replacing. Just now, I have discovered that if I apply either up or down pressure on the key as I'm turning (rotating) it to the START position, I can get the contact(s) needed to activate the solenoid and subsequently get the engine started. So, the question now is if this an is problem that can be readily fixed or do I start fresh with a new unit ( keys, barrel and switch). I sourced a complete replacement at Z-Car Depot for $60.00 (on sale). My preference is to fix. Thanks

It might help to add some detail about what this means. Are you saying that the starter does not spin the engine? It's just click, click, click, then spinning happens? Also, watch your gauges and the ammeter. If they all go dead, then come back to life that's a sign of a bad battery cable connection. The heat from the starter motor draw causes the bad connection to expand and open. Then it cools and closes. The small spade connection at the starter solenoid can be loose also. Same effect. I almost replaced a starter once, but instead just repinched that connector. It was loose.

The seller said he could see holes for an AC system. So he assumed that it had had AC. Who knows. It almost broke 100. 95. The winner didn't play the small bid game, every bid was a big jump. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-133/

Yes, 240 with add-on air has a 3 groove pulley. Can't speak for Spirit, well yes I can but won't, but if such a car were in my now closed shop the A/C pulley would be removed.

My 12/70 car has a 3 groove pulley. I would guess the 3rd groove was added for the dealer installed A/C.

If the solenoid works fine, the likely problems are the module on the back of the ignition switch (2 screw modules may still be available from Nissan) or corrosion in the wiring.

The ZX has a 3 groove pulley. Third groove was for the power steering pump.

@Mike

Thanks, Steve....Appreciated

Yep.

Did precision plate those door latches? They look really good!

Find a weather resistant maxi fuse (or ANL fuse) holder if you are planning to mount the fuse holder where the current fusible link holders reside. I also suggest using ferrules on the wire ends to improve clamping force on the wires. You will need to find a ferrule crimper that can handle the wire sizes (relatively easy to find on Amazon). Here is an example of a marine ANL fuse holder: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_867FUSEDIS/Wet-Sounds-WWX-FUSE.html

The click you hear is normal. That is the accessory relay. Move on from that. You need to verify voltage to ground (or negative) at the starter solenoid when the key is in START. That is the black/yellow wire. Suggested actions: Pull the black/yellow wire off the starter solenoid. Put the positive voltmeter lead on the black/yellow wire and the negative lead on the battery negative. Have your assistant turn the key to the START position. Measure the voltage (and report it here). If you have around battery voltage at the black/yellow wire, then here is the next test. Keep the black/yellow wire removed. Ensure the car is in neutral. Get a screwdriver. Touch the screwdriver to the positive cable on the starter and the spade terminal where the black/yellow wire was. You don't have to hold it there for long. If it doesn't engage the solenoid immediately, try a couple of more times. Red arrow - Spade for black/yellow wire Orange arrow - Positive cable from the battery. If the solenoid immediately engages, then your starter solenoid is probably in good shape. Report your results.

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Suggestions Please: As is, my Series I (Jan. '71 build) will start. The problem is it is taking more and more turns of the ignition key to get it to fire-up. The only constant is that every time I turn the key for ignition, I hear a very audible 'click' coming from a relay(?) mounted on the interior wall in the area of the passenger's right knee. In addition to this clicking sound, I can feel the actual internal movement by touching the metal housing with my right hand while turning on the ignition with my left hand. To help with a diagnosis, the battery is strong, and the wiring contacts to the starter motor are clean. Also, this problem occurs the same with both sets of the original ignition keys. So, is the problem coming from the keys, the key barrel, the relay (as noted above), or farther down the line to the starter? Where do I begin? Thanks

Somebody bumped the bid on the white 1970. By an odd amount. The guy buys a lot of car so there could be an interesting battle on tomorrow. Does anyone know if a 1970 240Z could have a three groove damper pulley? It has an L28 crankshaft so the damper has been off. The sellers on BaT are interesting because they often don't really know the details but don't want to say "I don't know".

I don't know what others are using but I installed a pair of marine brakers on the firewall.

They have this kit and one with several more pieces, which I assumed was for 280zs.

Good luck, and just let us know if there are still unanswered questions.

@Matthew Abate Do you know if Newark Auto makes a carpet kit for the early cars? You're making good progress!

This is all great info regarding date codes. I had to check my parts on this as the drivers door on 00042 was obviously replaced, passenger door is original. Drivers door has a 5-5 date code, while passenger door is 9-8. Amazingly, I checked my stash and I actually have a 9-8 driver's latch. Guess I will swap those out so they both say 9-8 Last pic shows the two spring types

That was the 1st pic I posted, here it is again. The clock spring was only on one of the batch of six I picked up, all the others used a coil spring. What was interesting was that five of the six bodies had the straight slot, not the "T" slot. Pretty sure the "T" slot was an improvement to retain the bumper - at the bottom of the pic. Sorry I don't have a better pic to discern the date codes. I recall one set was matched and an early date, I think they went to @26th-Z .

So the early locks had the T-slot? Do you have pictures of the spring side of those locks?

So cool! Fun build and I love following along. Gosh I hate facebook compared to forums.