All Activity

I tried him 1st. He only offers a +11 offset for 225/50 x 16 tires and I don't want to go that wide.

The guys with the money, so funny. If they had their way people would have to pay to comment on the cars. The high end BaT car auctions are more like a big money poker game. Who's bluffing who. They don't want to know until the sale is over. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-345/

Body work is continuing on the car but at a slower pace than I was hoping. I wanted to get the body back from the shop before Christmas, but I now think it will not arrive until early next year. I will go to the body shop next week and see if I can get a good date on when the car body and paint is expected to be completed. I last went to the shop just before Thankgiving and Carlos was working on getting the door gaps aligned and correct. Still needs some work as the door gap is a bit wide on the drivers side while the passenger side has a mild taper. Latest body shop pictures of the doors is shown below. I looked into getting a local shop that did dash repair work to do the crack repair, but it didn't sound like they could produce what I wanted. Their price was around $400 and they mentioned that 'there would be some scarring left'. I didn't feel comfortable with that and the cost was a bit more than I wanted to pay, so I read up on the dash repair thread here and decided to do it myself. I am actually pretty happy with the final results. It is not perfect, but quite good even under my bright LED shop lighting. In natural light the dash looks perfect. I will try and sequence the process in the pictures below. I used the 'silly putty' technique to match the grain. There were also a couple of small hairline cracks, so I used the plastic epoxy to fill those while I was at it. I am cleaning up other parts as I continue to wait for the body. Below are some of the re-furb pics of the Windshield wiper motor, alternator, brake booster, steering rack and choke knob. All connector housings and most terminals were replaced where needed. FYI: I purchased the steering rack boots from 'Best Parts On-Line' for about $45 including shipping. These are the same ones that zcardepot sells for over $120. Very happy with the fit and feel. On the valve cover, the car arrived with the incorrect bolts that secure the spark plug wire supports. So I replicated the correct style bolts by filing off the top numbers on similar bolts and polishing the head. Thin clear coat on top to prevent rust. Cleaned up the distributor and installed the fuel pump. Not sure about the correct color of the distributor cap, but this green-gray cap was sitting in one of my boxes so I decided to use it. The distributor cap that was installed when car arrived had a cracked tab, so needed replacing. Also, input regarding the correctness of items is appreciated (though not always agreed upon). Items like the correct bolts for the valve cover plug wire supports were pointed out via PM and the item corrected. Thanks!

Considering the cost of parts today ($20 half shaft bolts, see previous thread), this 2+2 might be worth collecting just for that purpose. It runs, but has a 4 speed. Looks like an R200 also. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-22-27/

Which hole? You could probably buy a small selection at your local hardware store for a few dollars. Try them out and you'll know.

There were 10 mm bolts in the holes but the thread was wrong and they only went in about 3/4 of a turn

I'm not trying to install a bumper I need to know what thread this 10 mm is. 1.0? 1.25?

Which bumper are you trying to install? 280 or 240 series?

Z Car Depot IncBumper Bracket to Body Bolt Front Rear 240Z 260Z 280ZBumper Bracket to Body Bolt Front Rear 240Z 260Z 280Z - 650-194 (). Bolt and washers for attaching front or rear bumper brackets to the body on Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z, 1970-78.

1977 280z. Front bumper mounts. My car didn't come with a bumper and none of my bolts fits.

Had a Champion, worked a bit better than stock I think but found a much better solution with a 240Z KOYO radiator. Been using the KOYO with my intercooled, turbo-swapped, (early) 260Z with factory A/C, here in PHOENIX, Arizona (not name dropping, just emphasizing the HEAT factor...) for a few years. In my estimation it's much better than the Champion I had - or Mishimoto radiators I've seen in some Z's here in Phoenix...

I have a champion 3 row radiator. Its like 15 years old and stock fan clutch. Which auxiliary fan can help reduce the temp when the AC is engaged? Which type and brand?

Oh, and this came today. PTunerz thermostat housing. Had to bolt up a Canadian part in honor of my Canuck brothers…

I believe the success rate here is pretty good with the past history mentioned in earlier posts presented. What puzzles me is the cost of the relay. I’m sure there are folks here on the forum including myself have a factory one available since I converted to OER Carbs.

You need an auxiliary pusher fan or a larger radiator.

It climbs 3/4 but when turning the ac on during traffic.

I've had my 76 280Z for 25 years. Other than headers, it's basically stock. When I got the car, it came with 195 50R 15 tires. With those tires the car pretty much steered itself on the highway and was good on curves at higher speed. On the negative side, the tires seemed way too small in the wheel wells, the speedometer was off by 10% and trying to turn it into a parking space took way too much arm strength so early on I got a set of 14 inch Panasports and 195 70R14 Pirelli P6000's. I'm happy with this setup but find, sometimes in a sharp turn, I get a little sway. The 205 60R 15 setup is almost identical in height, diameter etc to the 195 70R 14. I see from this forum that a number of people use the 205 60R15's and was looking for your advice. I'm not racing or doing anything performance based but I do enjoy a lot of New England 45 mph country roads. Am I apt to see noticeable benefits to the slightly wider tire and reduced sidewall? I still have the 15 inch wheels the car came with so the investment would only be in a set of tires and, of course, I could always go back to the 14's. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks. Dave

Thats not vapor lock. Different issue entirely Depends how high it climbs on whether its an issue or not. Lots of things can contribute to not being able to shed heat.

That's a lot of money in tools!

I wonder what this means -

It's unfortunate so many cool looking concept cars don't get built or the coolness gets lost in the transition to production line

5 days, that's pretty good

It wasn't meant to be a link, just an abbreviation. Something in the browser or forum software does that automatically, I think. ithink.com link.com thislinkwontwork.com

I still believe there is an issue with vapor lock as i turned the ac on and the temp started getting to 3/4 of the gauge.