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Well no good mechanics in Panama. Car temperature reaches barely past half of the thermostat and 3/4 with thermostat. My problem is still under heavy traffic when engine starts to misfire. So i guess we will need to tackle this problem systematically.

It is a different brand of car!

I haven't checked in on your continuing problems for a while, so please catch me up on what you've done about suspected lack of water flow through the radiator. Does the car overheat? Did you run it without a thermostat to see if flow happened? Did you run it with the thermostat long enough for it to open and allow flow? After reading about all the issues you've experienced for years, I have to wonder what keeps you connected to this Z.

Well, this is a bummer for the day. https://apnews.com/article/ozzy-osbourne-dies-adff88b55f1d3b0bace5705d58d3cdde

He didn't but these guys did.

My 72 240z has no emmission crap. All of these parts were removed by the first mechanic. We dont need that crap in Panama. Last mechanic doesnt show up. Just giving excuses to finish his work. Nevertheless, he did capped the PCV valve and tuned the carburetors in such a way. He argued that plugs 3 and 4th were getting fouled because oil was getting through the damaged pcv valve to the engine. This kind of logic makes no sense. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm not dumb. I'm planning on installing the new PCV valve this Saturday and checking how many turns he gave to each nozzle. To me the car lacks some punch. Any advise on how to tackle this issue and forget about this mechanic would be positive. Im also doing a leak down test on all the 6 cyl and draining the radiator to see if there is any blockage.

I never realized that David Cassidy turned in to a global phenom.

Interesting beetle frenzy going on. Almost like a whole different brand of car. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-290/

Personally speaking, I love it. It's a rare example of 'finger trouble' at the factory which Nissan corrected and a very human touch as such. But for others it has created some consternation and questioning, largely because it is so rare and undocumented. I'd be happy to own such a corrected number, but others wouldn't...

Being devil's advocate here, who expected Nissan to go back into production of parts just for the Z Store program in the first place? Seems to me - and I was paying attention on the Japanese S30 owner/enthusiast/specialists/parts supply at the time for my own needs - that there was a whole lot of 'Lost In Translation' going on between the Z Store planning people, NMC USA, the shops doing the work and the many-headed operation that was NMC Japan. That's the only reasonable explanation. Who would embark on a project which required new parts to restore a three figure number of cars without checking on and securing the stock and/or resupply of said parts? We could easily make a case for the Z Store Program being a good idea that was - in its execution - very "poorly run", in spite of its success in publicity and PR terms.

Always a pleasure Guy.

Right you are Mike, 280 fenders…..We had to alter a small section of the top of the fender and move the catch for the little inspection doors to make em work. The hood and two fenders were bought for under $600.00 total. I should have bought em all. Hope you’re doing good! Guy

Route66 et all, Want to clear up a couple of things about the Z Store program. 1 - Those are 280 front fenders that Nissan superseded the 240/260 numbers to in about 1995ish. There are 2 subtle differences that in the end don't amount to a hill of beans. 2 - Poorly run, then and now, Nissan - just last week they announced the closure of 2 factories because nobody is buying their cars - didn't go back into production of parts for the Z Store program. If they did why did they have very little me supply them with so many goodies? However, before he retired I had a friend pretty high up in the Nissan food chain in TN. One day I got a call, Mike, windshields and rear mufflers are available again. I called my local dealer where the guys are long time knowledgeable friends and asked them to do an INQUIRY - that's the official word - on those 2 part #s. Sure enough they were available. I ordered 10 muffs and 5 windshields. The muffs and windshields arrived a few days later but 2 of the windshields were cracked. I had them order 2 more windshields but only one came in as they were again unavailable! What the hell was that?? This was after the end of the Z Store program. Now, the fly in the ointment of my story are slam panels. That is, the horizontal panel visible when the deck lid is open. Nissan had someone reproduce them and they were listed with a special description and part # 240 PATCH PANEL 999M1-M0000. I still have 2 in stock. I have a real strong suspicion that this was a Nissan US deal. I feel this way because Nissan batteries, manufactured by Interstate, have the same 999M1 part # prefix. Cheers

@Nils Ya, when you press the switch it's supposed to flip into the other position. It sounds like you have a similar issue to what I had originally: I could depress the toggle, it would temporarily switch to the other side, but once I released the switch it would reset back to the original position. Yours sounds a little worse as it isn't even able to temporarily switch. I forget which colors correspond to which, but power comes in through the center connection, and then goes out through the connections on the left or right - one for high beam, one for low beam. Ie, we'll just call the connections 1, 2, and 3, with 1 being high, 2 being the center, and 3 being low. 1-2 would trigger high beams, and 2-3 would trigger low beams. You can test that with continuity. You should never have continuity between 1 and 3. @fredrick that's a spring and a brass cap. It sits in a circular opening in a rocker inside the actual switch housing. The piece is held into the plastic via a roll-pin and is the only part I didn't remove when disassembling the whole thing (I didn't think there was a chance I get it out without it breaking. It's the second picture in the first post This whole setup is quite finicky and I've thought a few times about trying to engineer some kind of replacement, but not sure if the interest would justify it.

That litte metal thing that almost looks like a screw. Where was it located?

I opened my switch, and one problem is that it doesn’t toggle. When I depress it, it moves to the other position, but jumps back when I let go. It’s supposed to stay in its position until the next time it is depressed, right? Not sure why there was continuity on both poles, but the inside was pretty clean so I doubt that dirt was the cause.

Hahaha!! I love you guys! ❤️

If this was a Ferrari or Maserati, a VIN 'typo' like that would either add hundreds of thousands of dollars to the vehicle's value or (more likely) add the same amount of dollars to the coffers of the lawyers and auctioneers adjudicating in its re-sale value.😄

I will double check that but I don't believe any of that has been changed since my last test fire. I did remove the combo switches and reinstall. Maybe I messed something up there

Make sure you have the polarity right on the matchbox terminals. The positive goes to coil positive, and the negative goes to coil negative.

I'm using the 280zx matchbox. No ballast resistor on the car. I will check those other items when I'm back in the shop

Nope, doctor said it was plenty big just wasn't getting the amount of blood it should, effecting output. I may have to get a catheter put in at some point. Like a G3 between supply and pump.

AHH, You didn’t go for the 3.1? 😂

I'm having corective surgery. 2.4 to 2.8 stroker🤣

Did you happen to check for voltage on the black/white wire on the ballast resistor with the key in ON? What is the resistance between the engine block and battery negative? If you run the hot wire to the coil, measure voltage to ground on coil to negative while someone else is cranking the engine. You should see it at 12VDC+ and periodically drop when the ignition system connects it to ground. Also I can't remember, are you using points or an electronic ignition?