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About Nils

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  1. On closer inspection the step seems to be the actual bottom «cap». It is shaped like this, and welded to the bottom. So now the Konis are in. I managed to reduce the gap to 5,3mm, by tapering the bottom cap and the top ring of the Koni, as well as the inside of the gland nut. My gland nut looked like in (A). I tapered them by hand like in (B). If I had access to a lathe I would shape them like in (C). This alone would have done the trick, no modification of the strut itself would have been necessary.
  2. I tried Gundee’s technique and the gap is now 6mm (should be between 1 and 4). Not sure if it’s sufficient, but I don’t dare to remove more material. I managed to take a better photo of the bottom of the housing. Is that a spacer in there or does the bottom look like that? If there is a spacer, how do I remove it? Is it possible to knock it out from the bottom side, or is the bottom «cap» welded in?
  3. Thanks for the replies gentlemen! For clarity, I've collected all info on my setup in this post. Car: 05/71 HLS30-30267 US model. Two previous owners before me (1971-1979 / 1979-2013). To my knowledge, it's an unmodified/stock car. It came with original open-type struts, springs and strut housings. The struts were leaking so I replaced them with KYB Excel-G's and supplied gland nuts. Strut housing part numbers: 54303-E4151 and 54302-E4151. I can't find any production date/number stamped on them. Strut housing dimensions: Inside: Between 15" 1/16 and 15" 1/8. Outside: 16" (slightly difficult to measure precisely atm as they're assembled). It's difficult to see the inside bottom of the housing, but I did take a photo and it looks fairly clean. Can't see any sign of inside spacers being used. Koni front shock part numbers: 8641 1031SPORT (1-2019) Gland nut: I first tried with the supplied Koni nuts. I also tried with the original nuts and the two variants of KYB nuts (front / rear). As someone mentioned, the front KYB struts are shorter and therefore user a spacer inside the gland nut. Strut lengths: The (yellow) housing part of the Konis are 387mm (15 1/4"). The KYBs are 377mm (14,84"). It's also worth noting that the two brands of struts have different bottom shapes - the Koni is convex while the KYB has a concave "cup" welded to the bottom. Depending on the shape of the bottom of the strut housing, ths might affect the fit. Gap: I curently have a gap of around 8mm between the rim of the gland nut and the top of the strut housing. According to the Koni supplied instructions it should be between 1-4mm. On one side, the threads won't catch at all. On the other side, the threads enter but I only have a quarter turn before it's full stop.
  4. Correct, it's a US model, 05/71 HLS30-30267. Norwegian/Scandinavian model 240Zs are extremely scarce. Strut tubes - thanks for the tip, I'll check that.
  5. I put the KYBs in 4-5 years ago. When I bought the car it had the open-type struts that (from what I've read) the cars came with originally.
  6. I ordered the new Konis for the 240Z, but thet they won't fit in my front strut housings. They are just a little too long for the gland nut to reach the threads in the housing. Reaching the 1-4mm required gap is not possible. The part numbers stamped on my front strut housings are 54303-E4151 and 54302-E4151. My car is from 05/71. I'm 99% certain the housings are original to my car (it was 100% stock when I bought it), but they're not on MSAs list of standard strut housings for the 240Z. Can anyone shed some light on my strut housings? Are they stock? Does anyone have a complete list of strut housing part number for the 240Z. Also, has anyone successfully modified strut towers to make room for a slightly-too-long strut? My old KYB Excel G's are aroung 10mm shorter than the new Konis. The rear struts fit nicely.
  7. Nils

    ANSA Tips

    Actually Arne, it was a picture of what I believe used to be your car, from a fellow Norwegian 240z owner, that inspirered me to get one of these. So DIY is the way to go then.
  8. Nils


    Sorry to bring back a zombie There's a lot of great info buried in old threads on this forum. Thanks for the replies! I'm officially looking for a set of the old flag mirrors, which according to other threads on here seem damn nigh impossible to get hold of.
  9. Nils

    ANSA Tips

    ^ Is it still available? I'm interested. Pics?
  10. Nils


    Are the Racing Mirrors an original Nissan item? I have the racing mirrors on my car, but like the original chrome mirrors better. If the racing mirrors are original I might keep them though...
  11. Late update: I located the general area of concern; by wiggling the cables going into the fuse box, and moving the fuse box, it now works. Obviously a bad contact or a broken cable, but it's difficult to access it properly so my next step is to remove the dash to get better access. Thanks again for the help!
  12. Thanks so much for the replies, I will have another go at it today. Luckily there's a small company specializing in old car electronics nearby, in case I need to throw in the towel myself.
  13. Hello all, I'm a new Z owner from Norway and this is my first post. I have a '71 Z that arrived from the US recently, and I'm having trouble getting the following lights to work: - Side marker lights (both) - Park lights (both) - Rear lights (both) - Dash backlights - Rear indicator (both) These lights work: - Head lights - Backup lights - Indicators front - Emergency blink (all four) - Break lights I haven't checked the bulbs, but it feels like something else is wrong. All fuses in the fuse box are replaced with new ones. After reading a couple of older threads describing similar problems, I checked the rear side of the fuse box (looks ok), and the soldering points and the contacts on the steering column, and they seem ok too. I have little to no experience with electrical systems, and I'm not sure how to measure the voltage or current from the steering column switch (as recommended in one of the older threads). Any help on what to check and how is much appreciated. I'll soon be taking the car in for approval, and with half of the lights not working it certiainly won't be approved. My car was produced in 05/71 (second series), and is a well kept and unmodified car.
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