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Yes, that would indicate a failed to me as well. It failed open circuit. And by the way, for educational purposes... With the new digital meters, it's pretty much impossible to check diodes integrity using the resistance scale. It needs to be on the diode check setting. If you happen to have an old ANALOG meter with a needle sweep, you can often check diodes with the resistance scale. But analog meters, like the dinosaur, are either extinct, or headed that way. So what SHOULD you have seen? Using the diode check setting, you should have seen "OL" in one direction, and some small voltage in the other direction. Something like 0.50 to 0.80 Volts.
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Here's the latest wiring diagram. I moved the horn relay to the interior side of the firewall. It was previously shown out in the engine compartment, but in reality it's actually located on the left side of the interior near the driver's left knee and the hood release pull. Changed the way the alternator and voltage regulators make connection to ground. And made a couple of minor wire color changes. And lastly... Thanks to the help from the folks here, it now has condensers. <V7.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 7.0.pdf
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I agree, I wouldn't touch it
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Well he is a mechanic and used to also race a camaro single carburetor car. He is 69 years old. Ill guess ill just wait for the new parts to arrive. -
You know that 3 and 4 have their own individual runners so I'm wondering if there's anything resulting from that? Maybe try snugging up the intake bolts? look for soot around the runners. Try accepting what the mechanic tells you instead of what you're reading on the www.com. He knows more than you, live with it and do what he suggest. - Yesterday
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It's a one way valve. Blow and suck your breath in one side and see if it cuts off the flow. Very simple to test, so your mechanic is most likely correct. Personally I've never seen a bad one on a normal running car.
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Whoa! I'd be POed. ☠️ The spot is farther back as you know but the tire jockeys don't.
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Anyone else ever had these tire shop kids bend the lower fender when they use the factory jacking points? I just noticed it a week later. I guess I need to tell them to use the cross member and differential in the future. Or give them pictures. Kinda sucks. Americas Tires no less.
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If you shake it and it rattles, it's good. If it doesn't, it means it's gummed up and should be replaced. They are available at any autoparts store for a few bucks. -
SwiftBagel joined the community -
My mechanic argues that the cause for plugs 3 and 4 fouling was due to a damaged pcv valve. I found one around my deposit. How can i ascertain this one is indeed working? How can i clean it?
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I wouldnt touch it. That thing looks great! Supply the OE front lip and whatever else then "happy trails to you..." 😁
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I think it looks Great! -
Some additional photos... rear tail light panel is now the correct color. ;)
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You guys recommend any changes to bring more value? I've been thinking about stock front nose (getting rid of the airdam).
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The Dave Irwin adapter converts one of the 71 wires to an "L" wire. Here's a schematic from the 1978 FSM. 1978 was the first year of the internally regulated alternator. Interesting (to me), I just noticed that there is a resistor inline with the charge lamp. In the past I think I've seen discussions about what happens to charging if the lamp burns out. Apparently, nothing. Charging still happens. In your case, when the diode opened, there was no current through the stator coil. No magnetic field was produced so no charging happened.
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So, while the failure seems possibly diagnosed, lets talk about why. What makes the alternator stop charging if that diode burns out. I have been looking a LOT at a 72 wiring diagram (I do not have a nice color 71 Z wiring diagram). I am trying to find something that looks like a feedback loop with a sense input, internal regulation and finally, output happens. I assumed the white wire with the red stripe coming out of the back of the alternator was the output voltage back to the fusebox and battery respectively. Is the T connector used in the feedback loop which tells the alternator to 'activate'
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I already have another MSA alternator kit coming from MSA as we speak. It will be here in a few days. When I was just SURE it was the alternator I ordered one. But now it may look like I have a spare. It will come with the bypass clip for the Voltage regulator and I will swap it out then. If I had a spare diode laying around I could just solder up one with clips, but I am pretty sure I do not have one.
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The other components, the rest of the system overall, could be tested by bypassing the diode. A simple jumper wire or alligator clip could do it. Probably have to kil the engine by pulling the coil wire. Then - how to fix it. What type of diode, how to solder or crimp? Or just buy another from MSA.
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A possibility of fuel starvation. The end of the return of the fuel rail is restricted so there is some back pressure on the supply side to the carbs. If the lines were reversed that back pressure won't be there to feed the carbs. -
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