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Looks like constant hot by the diagram. It comes directly from the fuse block and has a ground. Not sure what you're working with or if it's together or not (why not just check with a test light or meter?) but if it's apart you can check continuity back to the fuse block, or if it has a fuse in place, check continuity back to the positive battery cable end.

Thank you for bringing this up and providing this detail. It reminded me to look at what I put on my car because I was wondering why my speedo was off. I have 185/65/14, and now I know why my speedo is inaccurate. :D

I'm trying to find an ignition-activated wire in the front of the car that I can use to power some LED driving lights. Could someone with a working car tell me if the wire to the engine bay inspection light is continuously "hot" or is it activated only when the ignition is on? That's just something the FSM wiring diagram doesn't tell you. If you know of another ignition-activated wire in the engine bay, please let me know. There are bullet connectors for fog lamps on my harness, but the car never had those so I have no knowledge of how those might be wired in the absence of a switch.

I think that the common high pressure electric fuel pump uses steel rollers in a steel cage. I took an old one apart once. There are other designs. The old Z fuel systems are pretty leaky. They let moist air in to the tank. The gas filler cap vacuum relief seals are usually shot. Wouldn't be a surpise if you had condensed water n the tank and the gasoline has dissolved water in it. Gas will hold some water, especially ethanol-containing fuel. If you don't want to drain the tank it might be worthwhile to use some HEET or other dewatering agent. https://www.goldeagle.com/product/iso-heet-fuel-line-antifreeze-injector-cleaner/

Ya - I had one of those clear paper filters that everyone has. fuel pump filter

Do you have a pre-filter before the pump as well?

Gotcha - so me knocking it loose in that case sent it to the engine, was caught by the fuel filter in the engine bay, and the car now runs great since that blockage is gone is what it sounds like?

I suspect the pump was fouled by crystalized fuel. Could be rust but I doubt it. Unless it's a cheap pump. Most internals in fuel pumps are aluminum or coated in some fashion.

If originality is the goal maybe something like this would help your back. https://www.amazon.com/SAMSONITE-Ergonomic-Lumbar-Support-Pillow/dp/B072K59NYZ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?th=1 Since originality has not been a thing for me I took the "comfort" approach and replaced the seats in my early 71 240Z with seats I scored from a 77 280Z with new seat foam and new leather seat covers. The big things for me were the seat back and the spring base of the seat bottom vs the straps. With the original seats I hated the extremely limited range of adjusting the recliner angle, with the 77 seats I can easily adjust the tilt and tilt the seat back way forward for access to the tool storage compartments on the floor behind the seats.

Were they stuck with gelatinated gas or internal rust?

Just before the trip, I replaced all the tires. Four corners, and the spare. I got them at Firestone, but what I put on was dictated more by "what was available near the size I wanted" than anything else. The original tire size was 175 SR 14, and the web says that back then, when the aspect ratio was not spelled out, it was 78%, So using that, the original tires were 175-78-14. The closest to that size I could find near me was 185-70-14's, which is a tiny bit smaller than the original size, but only about one percent different. Close enough considering the availability. I went to Firestone and got "Suredrive Touring A/S 185/70/14" on all four corners and the spare. Nothing special, but very close to the original size. And the date codes were from late 2024 which was a whole lot fresher than the tires that were on there before.

If you would have asked me that question before I drove to Nashville and back, my answer would have been more definitive. Now, I'm cautious about how my back reacted to the journey. The rest of the car, however, worked great! Other than the radiator needing to be cleaned out, everything was rock solid! He drives like a dream. Starts almost instantly*, handles well, electricals were perfect day and night. Really a pleasure to drive, even at speed. But my back has me a little spooked. My 280 has different seats, and I didn't realize how much I appreciated them until I spent extended time in the OG. And putting different seats in the 240 flies in the face of the originality aspect. Haha!! Maybe I'm still stung from the road... Ask me again in a week or so. ☺️ *During the banquet, I made a comment to Madkaw about how easily the OG started, and he said he might challenge me to a "start-off" with his car. Well after seeing just how quickly and easily my car started, he withdrew the challenge. LOL!

Is it for the 260 in your cars owned or is it a ZX as the TECH FORUM category you chose? Here's wiring for a 260. There's a lot of info in the RESOURCES category up top of the home page

What spare tire did you put in OG? I need one for my '72.

Thanks for all the support guys, and never say never, but I don't think I'll be driving to Phoenix for Zcon! I'm confident I could have the radiator issues mitigated by then, but I don't think my back would make it even if the car would. Haha!! ☺️

Last time I messed with this, I tried to use off the shelf screws and I could not get enough mass packed into a small enough package. I've found that 4 grams is a good amount of mass to get the float to sit level at equilibrium, and the wood screw just didn't weigh enough. Here's a failed attempt to use a brass wood screw instead of making my own weights from scratch. Pic of a wood screw chucked up in the lathe, narrowing the head, The process of narrowing the head worked fine, but the amount of mass remaining wasn't enough. I ended up making another pair of weights from scratch. Here's a pic of what didn't work out:

The RPMs should decease when lifting that piston, almost dying out. Lifting the piston disables that carb then you are running on the 3 cylinders the other carb feeds. That's what mine does anyhow. Try reaching in and lift the piston itself instead of pushing those pins down. Your needle height may be off from the rebuild with the needle height set screw? Remember raising and lowering is viewed from the bottom of the car. Turn the nuts towards the fender to lower the needles. Read the section on SETTING MIXTURE.

thanks in advance for any help

Hi everyone, I am looking for a comprehensive workshop repair manual and could use some guidance. I need a resource that includes detailed maintenance instructions, troubleshooting steps, and wiring diagrams. Many manuals I have come across online seem incomplete, outdated, or inconsistent in quality. I would love to hear from anyone who has used a reliable manual, digital or print, that made repair work easier and more accurate. Also, are there trusted sources or platforms where I can safely obtain such manuals without worrying about errors or missing information? Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Are you turning the carbs upside down to adjust the floats? That is on the SU video from ztherapy but it doesn't work with the valves you buy nowadays. They were using Grose valves in that video. Those are built different and would not hold the weight of the floats while setting the gap between the float and the lid of the float chamber. The newer needle valves will not hold the floats up. I fought with this for a long time then made my own "float chamber" out of a clear glass jar and set them that way. That's been about 10 years ago and I haven't had to touch them since. They run great. I got rid of the lid with long ears and use two short ear lids essentially turning them from 3 screw carbs '71-'72 to early four screw carbs '70-'71.

I had a knee replacement last November and didn't touch either one of mine until a week ago. I had to tap my carbs with a hammer to unstick the floats after hooking it up to a gas jug with new 93 octane and let it run straight from the jug to the fuel pump. It spit and sputtered, smelt like she-it but only for a few minutes. I followed Phillips recommendations on removing the tank, so read over the first of his "tips and tricks" to drain that fuel out. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

CO, I see the last message in this thread is from Sept 2024. I've spent many,many hours trying to get the float set properly, I've had the same problems all others have had. I've bent the tabs many times and have hit their limits. I'm convinced that adding ballast weight to the floats seems like the best idea. I like the idea of using a brass screw, either off the shelf or fabricated. I have a lathe, so I can fabricate the screws. What did the screws end up weighing? I am pulling the flat top carbs and replacing them with 240z carbs. The ears are one long and one short, so appears they came from a 71-72Z. I hope to hear from others - Jim Sacramento, CA. emptech@surewest.net

so far its running and ive been doing just that. thoughts on what clogged the fuel pump even though there was an in-line fuel filter between the tank and pump?

I just rebuilt the carbs and started with them both 2 full turns down, but after the above difficulties moved them both to 1.5 turns based on the service manual.