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How much? Did you see them run or are you passing on information?

What's the general consensus on the ball joint, replace or rebuild. The manual says replace if the dust cover is damaged, however the dust covers are still available from Nissan. The specs for testing the ball joint are also in the service manual. I've managed to disassemble, clean and rebuild my original ball joints, any reason for not using them with a new dust cover and fresh grease?

I have 3 engines for sale. 240z with e31 head and dgv carbs 280zx N/A motor with cam and header 280zx Turbo engine All motors ran when pulled out. These are good motors for rebuilding. I also have a 1988 shiro 5 speed trans that needs a 2nd gear synchro and maybe hub.

Those run through the manifolds to warm up a cold set of carbs. They circulate coolant through the bypass lines on the passenger's side and then the thermostat housing. I think they are a potential leak waiting to happen so I have mine disconnected. It's plenty warm in Alabama so they add unnecessary heat through my manifolds. The bigger one near the windshield is actually a thermostat that closes the flow off when it gets to a certain temp and you're right about the front nipple, it goes to the thermostat housing. Here's a bunch of threads about it. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+intake+manifold+coolant+line+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&oq=240z+intake+manifold+coolant+line+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCTMwNTQ5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

Thank you Gav.

Hey, I have a '73 240Z which was switched to round top carbs, and getting close to wrapping up the tank rebuild and starting to look at the engine. I've only managed to drive the car a handful of times since I acquired it due to ongoing work on it, but In the past I would need to crank for like 30-60 seconds before it would start, and until it warmed up if I didn't give it a little gas to keep the revs up a bit it would just cut out. Once the car was warmed up though it ran fine so I'm slowly starting to give the engine a once over. I noticed that on both sides of the intakes there are open inlets which look like they should have a hose attached. It seems like they might have been connected to the coolant system. There is a hole near the thermostat that's plugged near the inlet towards the front of the engine The one towards the front of the engine appears to be just open, and the one in the back seems like there might be some kind of spring mechanism closing a plate or something. I was curious if anyone could provide a bit more info on these? Should these be capped off? I did double check the crankcase vent hose in the middle and that is in decent condition.

Not disagreeing with you, had a quite lengthy discussion about the topic with him. He's rebuilt dozens of Z engines in the past so I'll take his word on it.

Thanks Chris. They look good.

I know you don’t want to hear this as well but he’s been very responsive about information and tracking my orders.

Sample size cannot get any smaller. I doubt that that's why they come out since the the space between the rocker arm and the valve/pad assembly would have to open up enough to allow the lash pad to pop out. No logical reason for the divot to stop that from happening. Besides the fact that many people have had that happen when they restart old factory stock engines that have been sitting for a while. Most people think it's caused by sticking valves. Maybe your guy sets his guide clearances too tight. But, he's the builder. Good luck.

@Zed Head he's mostly worried about them popping out while driving. He's had this happen to one of his customers in the past and was very much against using the flat bottomed ones. I did find the JDM-parts ones right after making this post and it'll probably be where I will get them. Thanks for all the help guys Cheers Jan

Adding an update here: I haven't found the root of the issue. I keep the car at my parent's house, so it's not always easily accessible, but I'm thinking that maybe a brake line got kinked a bit during installation. I plan to check those next. If I don't find anything there, I will switch to the old booster and see what, if anything, changes.

Sorry about that--I never removed the check valve, but have validated that it functions properly.

As requested i will put a sensible club discount in place for anyone that wants one. Contact me on 00447931333474 or here.

😎

47 thumbs up for precision shims in Auzzie land. Flat and recessed bottoms.

This is the lastest version with the stainless steel stub plate and spring clip. eBay UK240z Datsun Series 1 1972 1/2 Fuse Cover / Ash Tray s/ste...Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Reproduced in Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate. Comes with asa silver ring insert, lid pins and a stainless steel snuffer plate. Spring...

Hi Gav, I've designed, make and sell them. They are my design, based in the UK and I ship them internationally. My ebay store katodfa on eBaykatodfa on eBayFollow katodfa on eBay. Buying, Selling, Collecting on eBay has never been more exciting!

Are you making these? Or just selling them? If the latter, care to share who the original supplier is?

So it's been awhile since I last posted. Remember that aftermarket ECU? I found out it was bad and causing starting issues and the high idle condition. I happened to find an original replacement ECU from another 1976 2+2 and that solved my problem. I also found that the TPS was missing a screw and out of position on the throttle body. As it turns out, the missing screw had broken off inside the throttle body. I was able to source a used one and installed it. Everything now seemed to work except for the temperature gauge. This was baffling to me since I had replaced it with a new one when I replaced the thermostat and the housing. However, that one was a two piece unit. I tested the temp gauge and wiring by disconnecting the connection to the sensor, temporarily running a wire from the the connection to ground and turning the key to the on position. The gauge needle moved from resting position to max within a few seconds, eliminating the possibility of a defective gauge or wiring. This was reassuring, since I was not looking forward to having to troubleshoot a wiring issue, nor did I want to have to go and try to find another gauge. So, I purchased a new temperature sensor, this time a one piece unit. I had some free time to install it yesterday, and Voila! I once again have a working temperature gauge. Here's the one that didn't work: Here's the one that worked: And the proof:

@TexasZr I recently have been in contact with Sean. He was very responsive. seanz@wanadoo.fr Steve

Thank you! Oh there's rust in it, not too bad though in most places. I think that under the hatch sill is probably the worst of it.

Outstanding car! It just screams rust free and many more years of ownership. Congratulations, you can always find room for a 240 no matter where you live.

It says on BAT and other places...🤣 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4161254077491653/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks