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It's quite amazing the problems in the plumbing world that arose with the change of season. Especially when the atmosphere went from warm to cold...

For sale are 3 280zx gauge clusters (without clocks). One is for a right hand drive. I make no claim as to the function of the 2 gauges per cluster, but they should be good. Asking $15 plus shipping If interested contact me @ ron@zclocks.com

Yeah, you're right, it does look crooked...I wonder how it didn't leak for 6 years if it was like this. I'll install the new master this weekend anyhow since I already bought it and report back on the state of the threads, etc.

The angle of the brake line tubing itself should be straight going in. You need to manipulate that line where its dead center going in. You mentioned it didn’t leak before but I think you may have had luck on your side.

Looks cross threaded to me, and seems it should be threaded farther in if it weren't.

Sure! It is leaking where the brake line bolt screws into the master cylinder on the forward reservoir (the one that manages the rear drum brakes)

Obviously, I’ll need to enunciate my words more succinctly. Speech to text (STT) works well 95% of the time. Siri’s translation skills still need monitoring.

It was supposed to be "your typo" (not the contraction you're), but I doubt that will be enough to make the connection. Your typo in the title of this thread... "Frange", makes me think of an old movie scene.

Can you take a pic of where it's leaking?

it sounds like pressure is escaping the master cylinder and sneaking into the reservoir which is forcing fluid out of the bottom maybe? Because of that, sealing that might be counter productive is what it sounds like.

That’s going to be the market price you will find for new reproduction’s. Try Resurected Classic.’s. This time of year you might find a deal but you will probably stay in that range.

I have a 280z and im adding a body kit which uses the 240z rounded turn signals in the front. I've been looking around and can barely find any. Most for sale are $200+. is that the case? why are they so expensive!? I am finding a few forums from 5+ years ago people selling them for $50 and so on. I would think aftermarket Repo's would be cheaper.

Appreciate your response. Thanks for checking into that.

These look as good or better than anything I have. I don't have anything plated or zinced. You can type in your part numbers on a Nissan web site to see if they are available. Save a trip.

No, Pretty sure you’re MC is bad

Some copper flare washers can seal metal to metal connections.

Sorry, I was referring to the reservoir for the rear wheels when I said 'rear reservoir.' Alright, so hopefully the new master fixes the issue. I just don't understand how both wheel cylinders and the master all went out at the same time... Do you think the positive pressurization in the reservoir is due to the possibly blown seal in the master?

The rear reservoir would be for the front brakes. Unless you mean the reservoir for the rear brakes when you say rear reservoir. Neither reservoir should be pressurized. The pressure should only be created by the pistons in the MC bore. If you had moisture in the brake fluid it wouldn't be a surprise to have corrosion in the bore after 6 years. Then when you pushed the pedal to the floor you might have damaged the rubber seal inside. So, loose fitting allows reservoir ro leak dry, pedal goes to floor because of it, damaging MC seals, new MC leak looks like old fitting leak. Should have got that fitting tight the first time. Seems like it was very loose. Oh well.

Interesting. I'll give it a look when I change it out, but it's odd that it started leaking 6 years after being installed if the connection there was originally poor. Is the rear reservoir being internally pressurized unlike the front not a concern?

It's also possible that the metal to metal seal of the brake line was damaged when you changed the MC the first time. Pretty common for the tube to twist with the fitting when the fitting is loosened. The only way to be sure is to examine the parts. A magnifying glass and bright lights help. Take a close look and you'll see where the actual sealing surface is. A spec of foreign matter can screw things up. Something to be aware of if you do change the MC. The threads don't do the sealing, they just do the clamping. You can see the cone that fits inside the end of the tube in this image from Rockauto. That's the sealing surface.

I bought a new one which should be here tomorrow(ish). When the master's seals go out, does it take the wheel cylinders out too? It's just odd everything started leaking/misbehaving at once.

It's more likely that your MC seals have blown.

No leak between the master and the booster. It only seems to be coming down near the areas where the brake lines screw in to the bottom of the master. I just thought it was odd that the rear reservoir (for the drums) has positive pressure on it when you take the lid off and the one for the calipers opens without a pop of pressure. Is there a pressure release valve in the reservoir cap that could be blocked forcing brake fluid to be squeezed out of the bottom when the pedal is pressed or something?

You shouldn’t hear any noise other than the booster actuating. I don’t think you mentioned if it has leaked between the booster & MC. If you did I missed it.

It was sitting for ~9 months being driven maybe monthly during that time period and hadn't leaked since I installed the new master in 2019 so it's weird that all of a sudden its tightness became an issue. It was driven weekly before 9 months ago so it wasn't sitting that long in the grand scheme of things. That said, it was leaking after being tightened and the pedal needed to be pumped up to work which is new. The car sits flat. Is the reservoir making a pop noise when the cap is opened (being positively pressurized inside it) an issue? This is exclusive to the rear reservoir I believe.