All Activity

I'm replacing the pump because of low fuel pressure. Looked like nothing back there had been touched since new. So that was the only problem. I alway suffer with the "while I'm at it" thing when I work on my cars.

What’s the problem you’re having?

The front end look great! It could easily be changed by the new owner. I suspect if he couldn't figure that out he probably would not be interested in buying a really nice z car.

I removed my fuel pump today and cleaned up all the mounting hardware in order to replace it along with with some new fuel hose. I've done this a few times on other z cars over the past decades. However, I've never replaced the fuel damper. I have removed dampers on at least two cars in the past with no ill effect. Can a fuel damper go bad? I suspect a damper doesn't have moving parts and it's there to prevent pulsations in the fuel delivery. My damper looks bad on the outside but it's canister is in solid condition. I doubt I could find a new OEM one if I wanted one. What could go bad with an OEM damper?

I've been using slotted hockey pucks as lift pads for several years. They work quite well. Just make sure that the slot is wide enough to keep the puck from wedging itself onto the pinch weld strip and deep enough so that the load is taken by the rocker and floor panel metal on either side of the pinch strip (rather than by the pinch strip itself).

Yeah this would be awesome. You can probably start with 3D printing prototypes. I know BMW has something similar with an adapter that can be mounted in a standard hydraulic jack. I believe it's called a "Jack Pad" or similar...

Motorsport Auto | Z Store Has the complete set shock absorbers and springs. For 625 dollar. when you see costs for a "today modern car" this is VERY VERY SHEAP !! I don't get todays cars they are stupidly expensive and brake down all the time.. and just to change a bulb the whole bumper has to come of???!! Welcome to todays technology it's crazy!!! And then all those stupid gadgets,, what? a auto windscreenwiper?? I DECIDE WHEN TO WIPE .. stupid car.. auto lights? going into a little tunnel.. the light flicks ON, and stay on for about a minute. pure waist of energy.. i know.. but if a million cars do this it's a LOT of waisted energy.. Lights on all day.. stupid waist of energy.. are people blind these days.. lights on should be there for motorbikes only during the day.. just my opinion.

Hahaha, site, thanks! Yeah, What can i ad.. My 280zx has still the original shocks, springs as it has a registered Dutch NAP of only 120000km on it! (It's also a 1979 280zx) If i needed some new shocks/springs i would contact KONI. I know that they make a very nice (Yellow??) shock absorber specially for the 280zx's.. springs i don't know.. i never really investigated it as my car is still 95+ % original. There is a big topic somewhere on here about KONI, use the search option.. Do you have a t-bar car.. i had 2.. and made a triangle under the hood so the chassis would be stronger, with a t-bar your windscreen breaks especially with the 2+2 chassis. The car body exhibits excessive torsion because of the length of the body. As my car is a slick roof it's not that neccessary to put a triangle in.

I only rev it up after driving for 30 mins once parked.

OK, I was so focused on the finish color I totally missed the fact that the screw was a hex-head instead of a pan-head JIS! D'oh! Captain, I really don't know the history of this car...so nothing surprises me. But here's my basic question...now that I have all the small hardware cleaned and ready to send out for plating, should all my hose clamps go in the "clear zinc" box or the "yellow zinc" box?

I think that was the prototype sketch for the model that came out the following year. ?

I had thought about making some slotted rubber pucks for the rocker panel seams but at home I just used the diff or the front cross member and the sub frames were dented anyway. I wonder how well a Z would lift using the four points shown in the Owners Manual. Is that not the ugliest drawing of a Z ever? 1973 Owner Manual. Looks like the summer intern did it.

There is a spring upgrade, Japanese I believe, for coil overs that allows you to run softer feeling springs than their effective rate. A good solution to prevent harshness. I can't remember the name currently

I told my #1 helper and the look on his face was pure disbelief. "WHAT?"

If the mechanical timing sprocket is on hole #3 it won't rev up very good at the top. I set mine on #3 after I rebuilt the motor with new parts. That advances the the explosion somewhat. I run full advance with the ZX distributor on my '72 240. I think it's 17 at idle and 34 degrees at 3,000 rpms. But it won't go much over 6,200 rpms on the street. Why are you reving it to max sitting still? That's completely nuts. No wonder you are constantly complaining. NO OFFENSE INTENDED It's your car, do what you want.

Couldn't find much for the ZX... Here's the Zx man. Maybe he can add some info. @dutchzcarguy

Panama regulations does not require such emission stock gear. Its been removed. Still concerned i cannot make my engine rpm go over 6000 rpm at idle when fully warmed up and parked.

I got the SU Carburetors back from the doctor. When they were done in 8/2000, with updated throttle shaft bearings at that time, there were 2 holes inscribed "inject grease". I believe the grease I injected caused the seal to leak. With the idle screws turned all the way out, I couldn't get it to idle below 1000 rpms, and I couldn't balance them. Ztherapy got rid of those older style bearings, re-machined the bodies, and plugged the old grease holes. I actually have to turn down the idle screws now to keep it running, unlike before.

time flies guys. My new alternator comes in Monday. I will try just adding the regulator cap to see if that fixes things before I swap out the alternator. I have high hopes

Exactly. The point I was trying to make was that even Nissan recommended a support point that wasn't up to the task. Just ask anyone with bent in frame rails. ☹️

I'm not sure when they changed the clamp style, but on the really early cars they used a different clamp style. Does you think your master is original to the car?

Hey everyone, I’ve got a ’79 280ZX that I’m slowly restoring and want to improve the ride and handling without making it harsh it’s mostly for weekend drives, not track use. I’m debating between just doing new shocks and springs or going with a full coilover setup. I’ve heard mixed reviews about lowering too much or going too stiff for street use Any recommendations from those who’ve done this? I’m not looking for show-car stance, just better cornering and less float. Some stuff I’ve been reading/watching: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CP0d8-Fo3RE https://www.theengineeringprojects.com/2023/05/car-suspension-system-basics-components-types.html https://zcardepot.com/collections/suspension https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic280zxsuspension

I had mentioned in an earlier post to seek out @zclocks. He has been a consistent contributor to the forum and welcome to questions and advice.

Personally on my 78 280, If I rested those stands there it would not be pretty. I rest my stands on the very front of the rail at the weld joint.

Oh yeah, this is from a May 1971 car