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Never heard of s30 world collection, i saw some door seals earlier from them though, just thought they where selling parts. Seems they are close to me. Will take a look when I have some free time.

Hi all! I'm finally getting back to my motor swap and I picked up a 5 speed. It looked like the close ratio I was looking for (same case), but the ratios are wonky, so that sent me on a deep dive and discovered it is likely from a 720 with a 240 bell housing. The ratios are as follows: 1st - 3.592;1 2nd - 2.246;1 3rd - 1.415;1 4th - 1.000;1 5th - .813;1 My question is this; Anyone know of a source for the gearsets I would need to convert it to a true close-ratio? I am keeping my eyes open for a close-ratio, but they aren't as easy to find as they once were! I wish I had just bought one many years ago when they were more available! Thanks for any leads you guys might provide! Jeff

Here is an interesting one...... (12) Marketplace - 1970 Datsun 240z | Facebook

Yeah, I don’t think my 240Z bracket would work since the carb spacing is closer together on the L20. I need to hunt down someone near me with a 510 to prototype a kit.

It occurred to me today as I was reinstalling the dashboard (after 17 years) that because I have completely separate wiring for the Vintage Air HVAC system, I mighty just take the power intended for the OEM heater/blower and use that instead of finding a KEY-ON wire. Yes, I know that circuit is activated in the ig-switch's ACC position but because I don't have adolescents who will want to listen to the radio when the car is not running, that might be a good option.

Is it failing closed or open? Some voltage or no voltage? The ballast resistor has a coil of wire that adds the resistance. Might be failing open somewhere. Probably at a connection. Details of the test procedure might give some clues.

Not hard as I recall. Except for the clock, the overlays would slide over or under the needles to .get into position. I think I had to pull the hands off the clock bu they went back on easily. Because there is a reputable supplier offering them - Z Car Depot - you could email or call them for information. They've been very good getting back to me with my questions.

Just a (probably unnecessary) precaution. It's the same wire that runs to the voltage regulator, but it probably has more electrical noise the closer you get to the coil. Even though it's the same wire, there's some filtering that will occur as a result of the natural inductance and capacitance that will exist in the length of wire over on the other side of the engine compartment. I wouldn't be surprised if the voltage dips more (when the points are closed) over by the coil than it would over at the regulator. And the voltage will blip higher when the points open closer to the coil than by the regulator. Even though it's the same wire. Again, probably doesn't really matter if you're just hanging a relay on it, but if given a choice, I'd tap in as far from the coil as would be convenient.

That's a nice neat repair

Were the overlays hard to do? Problems with bubbles or wrinkles? Get needles on or off?

I have the 1972 body and engine FSMs, which I've had since 1972 (purchased from BRE and now installed in 3-ring binders with each page lovingly protected), but the body one doesn't have anywhere near the level of detail as some of the illustrations that have been presented in this thread. I'll check out what's on the site.

First project after getting the roof attached was the passenger front fender support . I had cut up two 240z’s years ago and had a whole front clip left. No easy way to do this either .I was tempted to buy the sections from KF so I wouldn’t have to disassemble the front clip . In the end it worked out .

I got those on eBay back in December of 2010 from a fellow named Jason Ellis (jasmaster1@yahoo.com). I don't know if he is still active there but here is a currently active listing there for the gauge overlays (https://www.ebay.com/itm/116754738195?_skw=240Z+gauges&itmmeta=01K6VECE8NHA8V1JRWG7KECTFX&hash=item1b2f1fec13:g:HYIAAeSw8fdosIdf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f7RDWuP4ip3L0xi8Epcs3MGzRnIDxeRpwRTiJTFo%2FyXhMMsfddLn9Ap%2BvCn%2FGIN7AmIPoYfEWRqx3LB%2Fb6vtgs1LiOt5M%2FxbtHCoHbKvaiVhw88gQ%2FXqNsLGyyDOluqQraCdGuUIvEXpINFE6kLubse8%2BlZzyix9Z0uWrrXO5tkWb9pzBDEuh0sjE%2FAYFzMlq8Eno8bfz8eo23vQRsM6D91r88a95CHj9SIRMV4k31WB5gT629KVQ75UisBeYw%2FCU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9zkse62Zg). I just saw that Z Car Depot also has these overlays on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/333353236584?_skw=240Z+gauge+overlays&itmmeta=01K6VERGB27HD9RGDN98R029CQ&hash=item4d9d66b868:g:IT0AAOSwKA5bx61X&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e7wRbXJooQ7dodz55p%2FpfL3%2FDnI4KnIpEfg3F3lVeIRyEHeGgeVSHLqgbLDNDlk6GrqecMFTnyKkJMHxl2%2B5udEItKajJaOrn%2FBoiCSmcgSJn4Z6nYMS7V4iBywuzLaKtHbfHwXjdriTm7vfNRE4B4%2FIozubXeyBv1%2FUg%2By1bjHqNT4EMrXUYBymvBGdZxGrJ5CgNM8HF7LJ7MMqeYqRiTSXWaimnbZLBgGt%2BIsW5Uic4skEvPTSgm69RN3BRwRm0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-CF4u62Zg). I hope that helps you.

And the ballast resistor might have a short. It's part of the total resistance on the primary circuit, that passes through the module to ground.

Temp choke cables New problem, taller motor means the mechanical throttle linkage won't work I was wondering if the 240z cable conversion would work @KenFirch

Have you measured resistance through the coil? Too much current through the module might be overheating it. Might have a bad coil.

More random pics after running the 911

I like the white face gauges . Where did you get the faces ?

If you haven’t done so already, download the FSM for your car off this site.

Reading the factory service manuals.

The brown wire is the ground. The mounting plate is attached by two screws but thermal paste insulates the plate from the distributor. I'm tempted to make a heat shield for it but it hasn't had one for 50 years so why now?

You and I are kindred spirits!! I started my build in 2009 I believe. Time goes by fast! You're making good progress. Maybe ready for Zcon 2026?

Big milestone today: the dashboard is now back in the car since it was removed in 2008 at the beginning of this project. Lots of 'field mods' but that's the stuff that builds pride of ownership. Hard to believe that 17 years of "just plain life" have passed by. But, I'm on a roll now and I hope to be back on the road by spring.

I don't know where you guys find these detailed diagrams but I'm sure glad that you have and share them.