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Stevej's recommendation for LED bulbs is spot on. I would go so far as to recommend all external bulbs be LED. If you do that be sure to use colored bulbs that match the lense color they go behind. And you will also need to replace the blinker and hazard flasher with electronic units which are available on Amazon. I used these. https://www.amazon.com/Hbxdeco-LED-Flasher-Relay-Replacement/dp/B0DBQDY9PX/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?c=ts&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.r0vtsr6gvhaP0JqIkrNNWe1VSyoKzqOmRDZMqIRm6Sx2S7hdmByoSlq5B7nnOyC4MjUdGvYR06DT5etEUXNzrXbi7AcSH8Rng3yRz4GSf1YwuYjEHcbLtbKRPcP3uDHyo1Fn9msBVau9Fk45nP6kIF-9rnZd6556d6neZaina6L_ZLR8n8uvVl9wvzzTfmPOdAe6JyV2wZsad-_tpTWpyg.1qmzhFAIKk5rXUhbY14Gkd6aGisVISftIH7AlWO7sMs&dib_tag=se&keywords=Automotive+Electronic+Flashers&qid=1756048201&s=automotive&sr=1-4&ts_id=15716621

Independent…

Undressed…

Fraternal twins!

@SteveJ You are our “go to guy” in electric issues Steve. We appreciate someone who knows more than “It bites you, but you can’t see it”…….. like me. Live forever!!!!🥳

The flasher for the hazard lights is the same type used for the turn signals. The hazard lights flasher is located at the passenger side relay panel. Since you hear a click with the horns, it may be that the horns are corroded. On my 73, I used a wire wheel on a dremel to polish the positive contact and grounding points. You should use silicone grease on those areas before re-installing to delay future corrosion. One way to reduce heat on the brake light circuit after you get the hazards working would be to swap out incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. LEDs draw less current.

Ben Branch is a repeat offender. Look here for his assertion that Nissan's L-series engines were the result of the Nissan-Prince merger of 1966: https://silodrome.com/history-datsun-240z/ He can't even get Dr Shinichiro Sakurai's name right. Katayama lore ahoy! The usual - and some unusual, if not utterly baffling - nonsense trotted out: "Nissan’s senior management were actually not particularly pleased that Yutaka Katayama had achieved such a notable success and so to “reward” him they sent him to Los Angeles in the United States in 1960 to do “market research” and work on establishing Nissan/Datsun in the US market in all likelihood fully expecting him to fail." "Mr. K’s research and persistence in establishing a Datsun dealer network against the odds were remarkable achievements." "What was chiefly needed however were cars that would appeal to American buyers and Mr. K wisely advocated to the design team in Japan to build a real driver’s car. Japan heeded the call and the result was the groundbreaking Datsun 510 (aka Datsun 1600) of 1967. Incorporating a fully independent suspension and four cylinder SOHC engine based on Dr. Sakuri’s Prince six cylinder, effectively with two of the cylinders lopped off." "A sports car with that fully independent suspension and which featured an engine based on Dr. Sakuri’s Prince six cylinder with no cylinders lopped off – made to be a car that would give the Porsche’s a run for their money, the first of the “Z” cars, the Datsun 240Z." "But Mr. K understood that to call the car “Fairlady” was a kiss of death in western markets such as the United States. It is said he personally went and removed the “Fairlady” badge from every car in that first shipment." "Although the Datsun 240Z was designed by Yoshihiko Matsuo and a Nissan team the real concept for the car came from Mr. K. He had been heavily influential in the design of the Datsun 510 on which the 240Z was based, despite the two cars looking very different." ...and it goes on. Is there a car - and a backstory - that has had more utter nonsense written about it than the S30-series Z? Some of the stuff that these people come up with is parallel-universe level fantasy. So his daft description of the car for sale is hardly surprising.

I did check the fuse box, no melting, so happy about that...... Went through a bunch of stuff, noticed that the wires around the blinker flasher looked melted, so I replaced the flasher unit with old spare, and that issue is solved. Got the tail lights working, with the fuse replacement on the harness for the "parking light upgrade harness". Brake lights are now working too............so need to work on the horn, which clicks when I hit the button, I also want to figure out the hazard lights flasher unit. Not sure where that is, but I hear something on the passenger side....... Is that unit the same as the blinker flasher unit? Do not like the heat on the fuse box, but it's not like I use the emergency flashers.......... Progress,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks for the tip. That's the one I'll go with. Richard McDonel

So just a little progress of working on my 1972 240Z that I’ve resurrected twice now since I’ve owned it from 2005 or so ..it’s been a long project and not perfect but it was my daily driver . This is where it sat for 8 years untouched next to my 1988 Toyota pickup in December 2024 All loaded up for the 1500 mile return trip in my 1986 f350 diesel I pulled from a field for 500 bucks a year earlier Once I got it home I got it running pretty easy but noticed an immediate problem in the form a rattling noise from the timing cover to discover a broken tensioner and missing bolts . After that issue was fixed I decided it was time to install my big brake kit I got from a junk yard 260z about 15 years ago .. don’t know who made the brackets but the calipers and rotors are from a 90’s corvette .. 12 inch rotors too ..don’t worry about the wheel studs they have been replaced since It also needed the carbs tuned As you can see they were way off plus I discoved the carbs were loose too ..explained why the erratic idle lol I just had to get a star road shift knob Radio was full or rodent crap and figured why not add a wide band afr gauge from auto meter in its place along with my driving light switch ..I still haven’t cleaned the marker off Also had to make my own headlight relay upgrade to run flosser h4 90/100watt ralley lights It’s an L28 with N47 head from a 1979 289zx upgrades include 45dcoe triple Webbers . Msa 3 into 2 headers msa stage 3 schneider cam along with schneider valve springs Holley blue fuel pump . Kameari Racing distributor and fidanza light flywheel with centerforce clutch . Also running a single grove dampener . I will get the engine rebuilt in the future and get it up to 10.1 cr so maybe I’d get more out of the mods I have ..but still runs great and sounds amazing .

The fuse box on the early model are very suspect. Turn it over if you haven’t already and check the connection’s. A fuse connection sounds suspect to me for the multiple issues you are having.

The car is Jan '71 240z I did check the heater fan, that works. I changed all the fuses, checked for power, all good at the fuse box. Did notice the "Stop" fuse get hot when the flasher was on.... Need to check the fuses on the Parking light upgrade harness, since the parking lights don't work..... Seem to remember awhile back an issue with one of the side marker lamps many years ago..... Might pull all of them. Any other suggestions is appreciated.....

The writer's version. People have their unique talents. Three Dog Night made it work.

Did I post this one already? Twice can't hurt...

What model and year?

So, went for a drive today, and noticed that my blinkers were not working, so I turned on the flashers, no joy. Got home and tested a few things, here is the results: No horn, parking lights, brake lights, flashers or blinkers ( is there another Fuse Link somewhere?) Headlights, gauges, dome lights, radio, wipers all work,..... forgot to test the fan ;-( Quickly swapped fuses on the tail light circuit with no luck. Before I dive in, looking for suggestions on where to dive into...... I was thinking flasher unit or emergency light switch, but I think that should not impact the horn or brake lights..... All was good before, so any suggestions or advice is appreciated.......

It does look like Nissan still sell them and a better price too. Looks like darom has it sorted out.

Thanks, ordered one.

I checked the parts site and it looks like Nissan new might be available. You never know. Also stumbled across this "Motor Fan" option. Electric. Never knew. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/water-pump-fan/11 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-blade-fan~21060-n3600.html The motor fan assembly includes a coolant hose fitting and temperature switch. Datsun Z Motor Fan L28E (Option)

Here is the link for the fan blade at ZCD. I have always felt their shipping was kind of high priced, but that would also be part of the price. I would be about half of that price but it would be a used fan. I would check for cracks if interested but all will show some wear. They show an 8 blade and I have seen 7 blade fans as well. Z Car Depot IncCooling Fan Blade Radiator OEM 240Z 260Z 280ZFan Blade Mechanical OEM 240Z 260Z 280Z - 200-460 (). New OEM plastic fan blade for Datsun 240Z -260Z-280Z 1970-78.

That's what I thought. Thanks!

😝

I don't know anything about ZCD's fans (no link provided) but @Terrapin Z might have an original fan in good condition. Yours does look in bad shape, although I've never heard of a plastic Datsun fan exploding.

The author is the founder of the magazine. "Ben Branch has been a professional writer for the better part of 20 years, starting out as a contributor and columnist for print publications like Time Out Magazine. As the digital era came of age and print publications (mostly) disappeared, Ben switched to writing for established online publications, then founded Silodrome in 2010. ... If you would like to contact Ben regarding his work here or just touch base with him, you can reach out to the Silodrome team via our official Contact Us page here. " SilodromeBen Branch - Author PageBen Branch has been a professional writer for the better part of 20 years, starting out as a contributor and columnist for print publications like

I had also sent a message to silodrome using their contact form Contact Us - Silodrome letting them know about the build date and that looking at the car it probably had 107000 miles on the clock rather than the 7000 in the article. I'd bet that the Ben guy that wrote the article didn't know that the odometer has only 5 digits.