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Got the foam and my vents now look like those in Patcon's pix above. Looks like good sealing all around (as much as can be expected considering you can't seal at the pivot points), yet, when I suck on the vent outlets, there is air sneaking past the seals. I guess I'll just have to see if it's annoying when the car is back on the road.

I'm sure this info is buried in dozens of topics over the years, but I'm wondering is anyone has a list of all the items that become "hot" when the ignition is ON. I'm particularly interested in wires already within the engine bay so I don't have to run yet another wire through a new hole in the firewall. I'm pretty good at reading wiring diagrams but figuring out this info from my 1972 FSM or the laminated, color diagram I've gotten from www.classiccarwiring.com is quite another matter.

Cleanest garage award goes to you.

Thank you for that information. Yes last night i opened it up and found one of the spring contacts was missing entirely and the other one was severely bent. I attempted to create my own but was unsuccessful. Im going to take it apart again today to see if i can repair.

The current topic is - do these relative "newbie" restorers have the same concept of what "restoration" means as the "old-timers". Is it okay to remove the things were there "as the car left the factory" and call the car "as it left the factory". In literal terms the answer would be no. The statement is not true. The facts shown in the pictures seem to clearly illustrate this. They are "perfecting" the cars by removing the idiosyncracies of the high volume manufacturing process. The things that give each car originality, and make them interesting to people that want to understand how the cars were made back then. There's nothing wrong with doing that, removing the "defects", they just need to clean up their marketing prose to give an honest representation of what they're doing. Their whole web site is kind of grandiose. That's the whole thing, summarized. My posts and links are meant to help understand who these newcomers are.

The switch on top of the steering column has the power supply contacts for both the running lights and the headlights. Have you opened it up? Search "headlight switch" and "headlight switch hot" on the site and you'll probably find some good threads. The contacts get pitted and stop working, or the heat causes the solder joints to break.

OUCH!! More later but I have to get my Saab ready for the trip - weather permitting - to Hershey.

For your part, you never ever seem to answer a straight question. You just rock off on your own, often non sequitur, stream-of-conciousness stuff as if you're talking to yourself. You ask questions that have already been answered - often in your own links - change direction and ignore points being made. Take a peep in the mirror occasionally. Here's the thing about your "reality", and SpeedRoo's pot-shotting. You two are picking fault in cars that are not part of the S30.World 'Masterpiece Collection', and which are not going to auction on BaT. You don't know which cars are part of that program, which cars are on their way to Group 44 nor which particular car is going to be auctioned starting on 23rd October. You've jumped the gun. S30.World has a museum collection in Buren, Holland (as you can see in the photo I posted above) and this includes cars that are 'survivor', unrestored, original paint cars as well as cars that have been partially refreshed. You will also see examples of cars from various European markets and - for example - the Portuguese 'Entreposto' variants which had a very particular specification for that market. Examples of these cars - and work carried out on them - are documented on the S30.World platform. They also have cars that are being restored to customers' specifications. *So, anybody seeking to pick holes in the 'Masterpiece Collection' cars might be well advised to make sure it's actually a 'Masterpiece Collection' car that they are picking holes in.* I've already said that, in my opinion, '100% factory correct' restoration is a logical impossibility. You may well contest the somewhat hyperbolic language used in the promotion, and I'd agree, but I've seen the cars in question and they are indeed excellent. I can see the effort that went into them and I've talked with the people involved. 100% is a fine target to set yourself and getting as close as is reasonably possible to that is fine achievement. I wouldn't put a percentage on the achieved level myself, but the cars are stunning and several people I highly respect - including a Nissan employee who was involved in the development of the cars in period - agree. By all means pick apart the first car when it comes to auction, when you can see the detail photos and - I should imagine - video provided. Group 44 should be ready to answer our queries and our curiosity. It would be nice if this was carried out for the love of the cars and for the greater good rather than for scoring points against someone who is motivated by 'my enemy's friend is my enemy'...

S30-series Z was designed to incorporate anti roll bars both front and rear. Therefore perhaps more interesting that initial North American market variants didn't get a rear bar. The 'Final Euro' variants of course had much more than just a rear bar in their upgraded specification to suit European road conditions and the perceived requirements of its drivers.

interesting is the extra rear stabi bar on the euro versions

I've done more research and grounded one of my headlights and that works. I've now moved on to the rear running lights which are not turning on with the headlights. I am getting no 12V send to just the running lights. the breaks, reverse, and turn signals all work fine. looks like im not getting any 12v to the green/yellow. I tried following to C10 but no luck at this point. Im trying to open each connection to clean them but they are extremely stuck.

I am going through my project car and trying to track down why the headlights arent working. The headlights and running lights are not working. Testing the connections i am seeing the the ground has power. While tracing the wiring back and testing the combination switch behind the steering and the hi/low switch crumbled to bits and broke. I am going through the 1977 wiring diagram and trying to understand what goes where but i cant find the short and its useless. can i get a good wiring harness or partial harness?

Where is there a Bimmer?

Is it Charles ? My memory is short . I’d refer you to my thread on Hybridz . I managed to document a lot on there . I also have a thread on the Megasquirt install there . Ask away about anything you read HybridZ3.2 Build EFI N42 / MN47

That looks like a nice looking Bimmer on the far end at the shop. Maybe some Apex wheels...

to last, they need to be welded really good and probably not just around the outer edge but somewhere internally to prevent flexing. Flexing there will eventually cause cracks just like the cars get sometimes at the upper rear qtr to roof joint

Can you provide some more pictures and some details on the system right now? Still running megasquirt? DIY harness or turnkey harness? Ignition? Coil on plug? Fuel pump and setup? Etc...

Nice-looking property. Definitely what every buyer hopes for when they read, 'Treed lot'.

I was able to get M4-.7 x 20 oval head screws locally but had to paint the heads with gloss black rattle can. Needed fasteners to hold the A/C control panel on the ICF but no one has oval head thread cutting screws the right size. Ended up getting #6 x 3/4" wood screws which were also painted gloss black. Used a #6 countersink drill bit to prepare the plastic panels I fabricated (pix will follow soon). Looks great when assembled on my workbench and now looking forward to getting everything attached to the car.

RNM at $25,000. Reserve too high or market too tight with their money? Scary times ahead here in the States.

Looks like a pretty nice 240Z. Bidding at $17K with an hour to go. https://www.hagerty.com/marketplace/auction/1971-datsun-240z/0992a21b-6574-49c6-91f2-56f7b6250d67

Damn- 5 year update ?!!! I’ve been thru several induction systems including Protunerz . Now running these FAJS . I’d say this package runs better than anything I’ve had on this engine . The Protunerz ran good but I think the runners were too short and fat . I did manage 35 mpg driving to the Woodward cruise last year with that manifold - that’s at 80 mph -windows down! I’ve been blown away that I’ve been able to get these ITBS tuned in so well . First start it idled at 750rpm . I run the cable linkage which like any linkage has to be dialed in correctly . I was always told that when the engine gets hot the idle rpm will climb , but I’ve got these to idle better than my single plenum . These are 45’s . The stacks are 75mm long . I have not dyno’d this package . Looking back at this thread I can say I was running too much ignition timing . Also blew up #6 piston . I run 28 degrees WOT . Finally got smart and made det cans to wear while tuning . I had some pinging at peak torque . I still run a lot of timing at light cruise - thus able to get lean cruise . I think I got high 20’s MPG going to ZCON . I was still tuning on the fly . Though I ran triple Mikunis before - I didn’t think I would do ITBS because I thought they would be to challenging . They are a challenge but glad I did it

You've already quoted the names behind the business. Perhaps you don't read your own posts? "...just selling car parts..."

I’ll have to recheck my setting for my stroker but I think my fan comes on at 185 and goes off at 180 ? I have an ECU so it turns on my fans at a lower setting at 185 and full speed at 195 .

Here's another one on Hagerty Auction closes in a few hours.