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Is it urethane or fiberglass? Mine is urethane, I caught a flying 2x4 on the left brake vent hole in the airdam @ freeway speed (at first I thought it was coming through the windshield). I now have a starburst in the paint but that's it. My paint is a single stage and we did it back in 1991 so the only details I remember is I called the Denver regional office to get the paint number for a red 1971 early 240Z. the red does have some orange in it, I think code 110.

Hi, I don’t know much about originals of our cars, but if this helps for your reference that would be nice. The L20A is for a Skyline GT but it can be a useful reference. The Kaku -U crew inspecting the cylinder head that was a screen shot from the video of 1969 US & CANADA test drive. Kats

I suppose it depends on what the worry would be. Worry about them failing? Spring sag with age is not uncommon. Did you notice any variance in corner height when they were installed? The thing about aftermarket springs is you don't really know how they'll sit until you get them installed. You can find reports of weirdness with the Eibach progressive rate springs. Don't know if that problem ever got solved. It's a conundrum.

I've seen the free length dimensions in the manual I have but when I'm measuring them on my workbench I'm getting 14 1/2 and 15 and 1/8 total length. So should I not be worried about the half inch variation. Their stock springs and they're 54 years old. A new set of Elbach Springs or $279. set of 4.

Seems to be normal and as Nissan intended. Maybe to offset an imbalance in the car's weight, maybe from the engine tilt. Not clear, although it might be described somewhere. I don't think that the aftermarket considered it.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the front suspension on a 1971 240Z. I've noticed the coil spring lengths are not the same they're off by 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch regardless of where I measure one of is shorter. Do I need to be concerned about this point? If this is an issue what should I purchase? Thanks In advance.

Too many projects are IMG_2691.movIMG_2691.movdelaying this RHD hs30… Heading to the wetblasting area to determine if anything is left to work with……

Been a while since showing 2446 bones…and she got good bones. Slowly finding time and discipline to prioritize some shop time. It is fun putting a few peices on the rear, dash will be coming out to recover. Had been a while since I have inverted to disconnect heater control cables….throttle lever cable at top of the gas pedal assembly…etc. rear panel is too dark, debating to reshoot to lighter shade….

Quite true, thanks.

Not so much trouble when you know the way things work, eh?

Turbo, Julio. You can do just as well with that P90 head and flat tops on that F54 block. I know you've read this before but I'm gonna post it anyway. https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/

I assumed he was mourning the loss of another turbo block to N/A..............

Success. 54 years old everything is a struggle during tear down.

Yes, the plan is to paint the airdam too. Hopefully it will stick...

I did the yellow/blue wire grounding test. I had both the Floor Temp and Fuel warning lights on. I guess I have an independent to the fuel sender's thermistor issue with the Floor Temp sensor. I will check the relay under the pass seat.

It's just snark if you don't follow it with something useful. Are you sighing the pan question or the build details?

Sigh...

I'll add another word association for the boaters. "PORT" 4 letters like LEFT

See above

The way I remember is right is "right" normal threads. Driver's side is left handed.

Do the left and right tie rods have different threads? I've loosened the passenger side nut but not the drivers side. 240Z 1971 Help

I had her up on jack stands and stood about a 12" piece of 6x6 up on the jack and lifted her up. But the block and jack wanted to slide out once she was up high enough. I had to hold the jack in place while someone put the cubes under the tires

I dont believe the 510 has a rheostat

My new check valve came in today so I will be seeing how it performs on the car compared to the one I have currently. I suspect it will be identical, but we will see. I was walking the dog the other morning and a thought came to my mind. My brake pedal has great initial bite, but then goes hard as a rock, with no give in the pedal. I also recalled that while the car is in neutral, I cannot roll it. At all. Takes every ounce of strength to push it. When all parts were more 'fresh', I could push it up and down the garage with relative ease with one hand. Just to further flush this out, I am jacked up both sides by the diff adn wanted to see if I could spin the rear tires with the car in neutral. NADA. Drums are darn near seizing up the rear end. How long has this been going on? Not sure, I drove it around town about a month ago. No issues, but again, car did not want to roll without engine help. I now suspect something is amiss with the wheel cylinders / emergency brake adjustment. Perhaps a complete brake overhaul is not needed. Maybe just a refresh of the rear and some better pads would do on all four corners. I think rear disks would be a worthy upgrade. Anybody running around with just a rear disk brake swap.

Yes. I've had the turbo motor sitting here for a decade, and the original plan was to go turbo, but I changed my mind and want to keep it N/A and make it what I might have done back in the day to hop it up for a, "somewhat period-correct street rod" that is clean and simple under the hood, with not a lot of spaghetti or that immediately looks like it has been modded. Of course, I want to keep it easily-returnable to its stock configuration and will be keeping the original, numbers-matching L24 and the rest of the original bits. My plan is to bore to 89mm add flat-top pistons and new rods, L-Spec Datsun-worked head (shaved, ported, new springs, SS valves, valve guides, stage 2 or 3 cam and cam tower shims). I just purchased the A123 electronic ignition distributor, Champion radiator with fans and will be doing the GM alternator conversion, light flywheel, performance damper, turbo oil pump and keeping the dual SU's. More than I bargained for, but I think I will end up with a really nice driver that will satisfy my butt dyno!