All Activity

https://www.arizonazcar.com/engine This is where I my pan was purchased. It has hinged baffles and holds an extra qt. of oil. Very heavy duty.

I've received several waves this year from motorcycle riders when I've been driving my Z. I'm not a motorcycle rider, so I haven't tried to respond "in kind" (and it might look a bit odd coming from the driver's door of a car), but I've given a friendly regular wave back. I definitely saw it as an honor (to the car), and was happy to see it in each case. I'm sure we all get lots of waves from other classic car drivers, which I'm also happy to receive! Yesterday, being Canada Day, was a big day for that!

Well the reinforcement strips weren't as expensive as that aluminum pan! I'll re-run the numbers when I get the chance. I've never seen one of those pans in person, but if it's stiff enough, a gasket should seal without goop. In thoery.

Oh, and the last time I did an oil pan, I did things a little different. First the same: I bought a cork/rubber combo gasket like Datsun used originally and I used permatex gray (a very tiny bead) on both sides of the gasket. That tiny bead hopefully will not make it very difficult to get the oil pan off again if I ever need to. Hope I never need to, but hoping it won't be a battle if I ever do. After applying the tiny bead, I I torqued the pan into place and let the sealant cure. That much of the process is pretty much what I had done in the past. Then I did something different... After giving the sealant a couple days or so to cure, I went back, and ONE BY ONE, I removed the bolts, put some blue thread lock on them, and torqued them in again. My thinking on this is twofold: First, the gasket had time to compress and take a set. This was confirmed as I was taking the bolts out because some of them were looser than they were when I put them in couple days before. And second... The torque spec on those oil pan bolts is so small that It barely even compresses the lock washer. I'm thinking that maybe not even enough to prevent the bolts from loosening over time. So my theory, which is mine, is that the blue threadlock will keep the bolts torqued (even at such a low amount) while giving the gasket a day to take a compression set before final torque will keep the gasket under pressure. Won't know for a while how successful that whole thing was, but I'm hopeful!

That would be great. Thanks. I also started looking into getting an aluminum pan and found the one that MSA sells (made in Japan): https://www.thezstore.com/product/5261/price-drop-kameari-high-capacity-oil-pan-70-78-240z-260z-280z It is pricey, but the number of hours I spent on sealing the oil leaks in that area should justify the 1k price. I wish this pan had a groove built in with a rubber o-ring style gasket that GM cars use. My understanding is that the perfectly flat aluminum pan combined with the MSA's competition style gasket (i don't think it needs any sealant) should provide a good seal. What do you think?

I made up a CAD file for better / longer reinforcement pieces and ran some quotes. The costs were higher than what I was willing to deal with at the time. And that was before covid. If there is interest, I can open that can again and get a fresh quote?

I am going to resurrect this thread since sealing our oil pans never ends :-) I posted back in 2015 that I used a gasket which was sandwiched with Permatex Grey. It lasted me till 2024 (9 years) when the oil started leaking again. And boy, it was a major b$tch to remove it! Then I decided that I probably shouldn't be applying semi-permanent solutions again lol. I removed/cleaned both surfaces, made sure my oil pan was straight and applied a thin layer of Permatex Black to the oil pan to glue the cork gasket. Once it was cured, I put the oil pan back with a few dabs of Black in a few spots where the FSM is asking for. I installed the reinforcement 2 metal pieces and applied small torque to bolts per FSM. I did the same to my valve cover and it is working. It also makes it super easy to remove to do valve adjustments. Well, the oil pan gasket lasted me 6 months, the oil is leaking again. I think, it was Captain who asked if someone could manufacture a nice long thick reinforcement piece (we will probably need 2 for ease of installation)? If someone makes one, please sign me up.

Not so much trained but he does what he wants and gets what he wants I guess by just paying attention. He's the reason I get out of bed, his name is Rolex. I know what he wants and he knows what I'm about to do and runs and hides under the bed. Hates baths and toenail trims, cleaning his big ears are a weekly fight too. But I can't imagine my life without a good dog. So yeah I guess he is trained but I didn't do it, he did.

Knowledge of 240Z wiring.

Sorry Mike... It's not. I know you wanted it to be. ☺️

They all are, my friend. They all are. ☺️

I did not see where they sell just the wire harness. Am I missing something?

Have you trained him to do anything else?

LMC Middle School https://lmc896.org in Lower Manhattan provides a rigorous, student-centered education in a caring and inclusive atmosphere. Emphasis on critical thinking, collaboration, and community engagement.

That's exactly what the problem was on my car. I had a puzzling oil leak, seep, about a tablespoon every 30 miles or so. Small spot under my car after sitting. I knew the leak originated near the fuel pump, but was fearing the worst, head gasket. This was one of the last of 25 pages of doing a search for "oil leak" that I read. Decided to go check those bolts, YES! I had loosened the bolt to adjust the alternator but forgot to tighten it. The others in the sane vicinity were a bit loose also. Took it for a drive, no more leak.

And I thought it was some hot asian chick who drove a Porsche... O_O

Thanks, this car is a never ending story lol. Now I am hearing what sounds like my speedo cable in the front making buzzing noises which increase and decrease with RPMs :-) I must have bumped it when I was attaching the master cylinder's rod to my clutch pedal.

Now that’s a smart Dawg!

Glad to help. And hope your clunk is gone for good!

I've used Hastings twice and didn't run into any problems. My dog has started eating those gummies all the kids are raving about. Now he just lays around and poots and then laughs about it.

Hi Site…..When installing new pistons and rings in an expensive rebuild, I want to feel confident that when I squeeze those pistons in the bores, they are perfect. The ITM pistons are awesome. When installing rings, I have found that the Total Seals oil rings mate up so easy that I can sleep at night shoving the pistons into the bores…….just me. I’m sure that ITM oil rings and Hastings will work, but I just never felt like I had them installed correctly….at least not in my mind. An extra $200.00 for top quality rings always seemed worth the investment…..whatcha think? BTW How’s your dog? Regards Guy

Another way is to go through the tachometer opening if your hands are small enough.

Never mind. I erased my internet history and the problem went away. Didn't know that "cookies" could do that. I think I had clicked on something by accident. Back to original programming...

About this Vintage Z - As I recall - this one first showed up for sale about 20 miles North of me. New Port Richey or Holliday Florida. A friend of mine went to look it over, and reported that it was very poorly cared for. The next time we saw it, was its first sale on BAT. My fiend remarked that it had been very well detailed for that sale and looked 100% better than his personal inspection. Now we see it again, with an owner that put some significant funds and I’m sure elbow grease into it - to bring it up to better condition. Will the customer modifications hurt its market value? Not as much as the current market itself, the mod’s might hurt it a little as most collectors don’t want to mess with fixing anything.

I am located in Austin TX