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Found 57 results

  1. The electrical harness on my Z is in wretched shape. P.O. cut through and spliced too much to name. I have no brake lights. And yes I have read an excellent no brake lights thread. I have one working turn signal (left), no hazards. I just reattached the hazard switch connector which is what brought the one turn signal online. Im thinking it’s the multifunction switch. But it’s hard to say there is so much electrical terror in my car. Maybe it’s the brake pedal switch. The most likely culprit is abuse by a PO. Any tips or advice?
  2. turn signal/new gauges..plz help!?

    Hey guys! I own a 1976 280z. My wife overheard me talking about the intellitronix gauges for our vehicles and recently purchased me the tach and speedo. I replaced the speedo cable with an electronic speedo sensor as well. While installing, I cut the white plug connectors off of the original gauge wiring and spliced them into the new gauge wiring. I identified the power, ground and signal wire within each connector. I then plugged them back into my harness. All works fine except my turn signals. It appears that leading from the turn signal portion of the combo switch there is a 2 connectors, one"white" and one "yellowish" connector. The "yellowish" connector has a W/B, W/R and G leading from the switch to the connector. As everyone can imagine, life got it the way and its been some time since I started the project. I can now no longer remember where this connector connects in. It is the only missing puzzle piece to this disaster ive started. Could this be the culprit of my issue? Any ideas would be great. Thank you!\ Additional info: Hazards work, battery new optima, all bulbs/sockets inspected/replaced, lights work, fuses fine, multimeter is only showing 1.5v at the flasher relay. Relay bench tested and works fine.
  3. I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the passanger side didnt smell any thing. I took out the igniton relay and took it apart and all the wiring harness conectors. Checked the relay and filed the contacts and hooked it back up and still nothing. If I turn the lights on the voltage gauge pegs below 12 volts and the lights dont turn on the head lights will on the second click. I tried unhooking all the wires connecting to that control arm and still nothing when i tured the key. I could still hear the clock ticking aswell. I am thinking about taking the dash out I also need to replace the heater core, do some rust work on the fire wall and under the battery, and carpet aswell as some lights and what not behide the dash. Thank you.
  4. Starts, but dies when revved, now...

    after searching the forums i was unable to find anything that would help: Here is my current situation: Vehicle: 72 240z stock l24 w e88 head, 3 screw roundtops stock 4 speed manual, only modification would be a fuel pump mounted at rear of car. Had the vehicle out one day, driving well, all was good. i hit a bump and the wire i have running next to the driveshaft for the fuel pump got caught on the driveshaft and tore, needless to say the car died. flash forward, fixed the wire, secured it better this time and all seemed good, fired her up, and she was once again idling. i hop in to drive after she was warmed up, blip the throttle and immediatly lose power, the car dies wait a couple minutes, start her up, same thing, idles, rev it up, and it dies. a week passes, and now she will barely start. battery fully charged. im assuming it is electrical, maybe i blew something when the positive wire for the fuel pump got tangled in the dri eshaft, but dont know where to look. any help would be much appreciated
  5. Dome light wiring

    I am trying to understand the wiring functions in the overhead/dome light. I have studied the FSM (Figure BE-23) and the wiring to my light to find out why my light does not work by door contact or manual (lens button). I am trying to use my very basic electrical knowledge and use my voltage tester to determine energized and grounded wires. I clearly test the Blue/white stripe wire as constant 12 volt, battery powered. I also get a functioning ground signal from the black wire. The bulb (even tried several) tests as good. However, I can't get any power across the bulb connections...BW (BE-23 code LW) and Black/red stripe. I know that BR is controlled by door switches, however, my connected, or disconnected, bulb terminal or open/closed doors the BR won't allow power to body ground B allowing bulb to light. Isn't the actual function of the BR wire to create/allow a full grounding at the bulb based on door switch button in/out? To test the door switches, does the BR get any energy to voltage test against B? I see a closed circuit/loop for the BR from the light terminal (with RH and LH split) to each door switch and back with no power to BR...so how would I test each switch? Yes, the LH switch also has a Black and white stripe power and Black ground wires but the switch seems to have two separate circuits for dome light and theft protection and no power shared to BR. Please no flames my confusion but kindly help me to understand switch testing and why BR bulb terminal connection won't close loop allowing LW power to B and allowing light to work manually with door closed. Thank you, for your patience; I'm trying🤔
  6. Black wire on ignition switch

    I'm finishing up the wiring as I near the end of the restoration of my '76 280z. There is a single black wire with a spade connector on the ignition switch. Any help on where it connects? You guys have been a great resource so far! Thanks!
  7. 240z engine bay wiring help

    I have a 1972 240z, and the guy I bought it from got a viper security system and a beefy sound system wired in (very poorly might I add). I need to rewire a lot of the engine bay and the wiring diagrams available are not helping, a lot of wires are spliced and replaced that don't match up or are just taped off and lead nowhere. If anybody has a diagram of all the 10 pin connectors that are located underneath the passenger side of the dashboard it would help a lot, or if anybody has any self made diagrams that are at all related to engine bay wiring please post them, anything might help me out.
  8. I recently installed the Crane xr3000 and used the 14 gauge wire - per the Crane instructions. However my tach is not steady and it will drop sometimes between shifts. It just generally works poorly. I have heard of a fix for this - anyone know what it is.
  9. combo switch to dash wiring

    Could someone tell me the wiring color to color on the combo switch from the switch to the dash 9 pin connector. I had my switch redone and my 9 pin on the dash side was melted I had to put the wires into a new connector on the dash side and I am not sure if I got if right.
  10. I need everyone's help on this

    I have a short or something going on that when I pres the brake pedal the sidemarker lights and the dash lights come on in addition to the rear brake lights. Also when I have my headlights on the turn signal for the left signal lights up ...Anybody have an issue like this and how did you fix it. Thanks
  11. Hi. Lance here. I finally got around to rewire my 1971 240z. It had a L28 and a faulty wiring and I'm very confused. So, I found a small metal box on the back of my speedo. It have a Yellow and a Yellow/black wire coming out and a red wire that hooks up with the speedo. I teared apart the old wiring and found the yellow one is connected to the IGN Black/White wire using some sketchy electrical tape, and the Y/B one is routed all the way to 4 big 2x5 connector that connects to the engine bay harness. I'm guessing this is a mix matched setup? Voltage regulator is not wired either. Since I'm rewiring the whole thing I just need to know what the heck is this small box. It outputs red about 11.6 volt when battery is connected via Y, and nothing at Y/B. I searched online and found this image of a 260z gauge that appears to have the identical box. It seems those green wires are the Y and Y/B on mine. I did some research online and found out nothing. Have anyone got a idea of what it does? I'm testing the gauges and the speedo and fuel gauge is not working.
  12. Mystery switch?

    This little switch is located on the passenger side of my 73 on the far right, the wiring looks new, but I dont have a battery yet nor have I tried to hook one up to the ancient leads to see what it does..but it doesn't quite look stock. Does anyone have any idea what this is for? Additionally, that choke looking pull, there are about 3 of them on the driver side if I remember correctly. Have no idea what those are for either. I've never heard anyone mention these bits on the inside of Z cars nor have I seen them, or I wouldn't be asking.
  13. Oh so wise Z community! I need your assistance desperately! I have a short... Somewhere! I currently have, running lights at all. I also have no dash lights, marker lights, tail lights, or engine light. I believe the dome light is also not working. What I do have is headlights, turn signals, brake lights, map light, and radio. When I change the fuse (tried 3 times) it immediately flashes and burns.. So much so that I burned my finger. Oh wise ones! You direction and help is very needed! Thanks much! Kira The lil z lady
  14. Oh so wise Z community! I need your assistance desperately! I have a short... Somewhere! I currently have, running lights a all at night, I also have no dash lights, marker lights, tail lights, or engine light. I believe the dome light is also not working. What I do have is headlights, turn signals, brake lights, map light, and radio. When I change the fuse (tried 3 times) it immediately flashes and burns.. So much so that I burned my finger. Oh wise ones! You direction and help is very needed! Thanks much! Kira The lil z lady
  15. Oh so wise Z community! I need your assistance desperately! I have a short... Somewhere! I currently have, running lights a all at night, I also have no dash lights, marker lights, tail lights, or engine light. I believe the dome light is also not working. What I do have is headlights, turn signals, brake lights, map light, and radio. When I change the fuse (tried 3 times) it immediately flashes and burns.. So much so that I burned my finger. Oh wise ones! You direction and help is very needed! Thanks much! Kira The lil z lady
  16. For some background I have a '71 Datsun 240z and have made a few modifications to it so far - replace solenoid, new plug wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs. it worked fine until the engine sat for awhile. I put on a new valve cover and a new exhaust. since then I can't get the thing to start. Now every time I try to start it it'll sound for about 2 seconds like its going off of starter fluid then cut out, totally unresponsive to the throttle. it'll only do this for the first go around and after that i can crank for days and nothing happens. This makes me think its a fuel/spark issue because its getting flooded so it only happens the first time, however, since this problem started happening i've tried the following. - checked the fuel to the carbs. i took off the hose and cranked the engine and got a lot of fuel coming out - i made sure that the plug wires corresponded correctly with TDC and that the firing order was all correct - got a new battery - got new spark plugs - cranked it with a $^!# ton of start fluid. I havent adjusted the timing but i'm guessing it should be fine if it was fine before and I never took out the distributor. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  17. Need a miracle!

    Just finished a complete engine rebuild on my 1975 Datsun 280z (I named her Bonnie) a few days ago. I've owned Bonnie since 11/1/2015, just 6 months now, and began the rebuild the end of November. When I tried to start it, I have absolutely no power in the car, no lights inside, no headlights, no clicking in the ignition, nothing? Hoping I didn't kill Bonnie. Here is what I've done so far; I've cleaned and checked the battery and terminals, all new terminals. Checked for power from positive, the only power I have is to the starter, no power to the alternator or the ignition. I've checked the grounds, all are good, the two bolted to the frame and the one to the back of the starter. Needless to say, I'm both stumped and frustrated. I can post pics of anything anyone needs, I appreciate your help. P.S.- Bonnie ran very well when I bought her, all lights worked, started every time, no problems. Just a tired engine. Help??!! Troy
  18. I have a 73 240Z which I converted a few years back from points to a Crane 700 electronic ignition. Ever since I did the conversion I have had difficulty starting the car when it is cold and the engine easily floods. The spark appears weak while cranking and often needs a shot of starter fluid to turn over. The real problem is that it generally only starts after I stop cranking the starter. As soon as I let off the key to stop the starter from cranking is when it generally starts. It seems like the starter is drawing too much current but I'm fairly convinced that it has something to do with how I have the electronic ignition wired as this was never a problem before the conversion. The problem doesn't get better if trying to jump start from a running vehicle. Any suggestions?
  19. Source for OEM electrical connectors

    Hi all: I searched here for the answer, and I Googled a bit for a source. But no luck so far, other than Ebay, which has connectors that don't look the same as mine. I noticed on my '77 (that I just bought) that the AFM connector does not seem to have any retaining means in the AFM. If I unbolt the AFM, the connector falls out as soon as I move it. I'm concerned the connector will fall out while driving. Is there a source for a replacement connector, aside from getting an entire harness? I can't even tell what is supposed to retain it. But I assume this is not an uncommon issue. Before I shell out $300+ for a harness, I'll explore a home-made solution. But I'd rather replace the plug (or whatever retains it if that can be retrofitted). Thanks in advance, John.
  20. Hi Guys! I need advice on my left rear turn signal diagnostic. The left rear turn signal quit working. All the bulbs are fine. The left front signal works fine. Both right turn signals front and rear work fine. ALL the hazards work including the left rear. BOTH rear brake lights work. HOWEVER, When the brakes are applied the left brake light goes out when the left turn signal is activated and there is no flashing signal. With the right turn signal activated and the brakes applied, the right signal flashes normally over riding the brake light. I read a couple of threads and my diagnosis is; - Turn Signal Flasher is ok - Hazard Flasher is ok - Brake over ride switch is ok I read a thread that stated the column switch as individual contacts for the front signal and rear signal. My gut tells me the switch is the culprit, in particular the rear signal contact. Thoughts? Advice? Comments? Thanks in advance!
  21. Hello and Please Help me with my 280Z

    Hello all! I recently acquired a 1977 Datsun 280Z and had a mechanic do a lot of work to restore the mechanics (engine, brakes, etc.) to factory specs. However, there is still an issue. The car starts and runs great, but when it gets warmed up (about 15-20 minutes into a drive) it starts to stutter and then it shuts down. At this point it won't restart. Letting the car sit for about 5 minutes (not a long time!) seems to solve the problem - the car starts again and I can drive it until the process repeats. Here is what has been done to the car so far: - Fuel tank checked to see if getting clean fuel from it - New fuel lines installed - New fuel pump and filter installed - New spark plugs - Distributor checked - AFM (Air Flow Meter) replaced - Fuel rail replaced - Air regulator valve attached (it was missing when I purchased the car!) The fuel pressure was checked and the mechanic said it was good. So, my question is, what do I check next to see what is causing the car to stutter once it warms up? What other information do you need from me? On a second note, when the car stuttered and stalled the first time I was driving it (a day out of the shop), I turned on my hazards. This caused my turn signals, hazards, and dash lights to all stop working. To clarify, my turn signals do not work at all. This means that they do not blink outside of the car, nor do the lights turn on inside on the dash. Neither do the hazards. On top of this, none of the lights on the dash come on when the lights are turned on and any electronic gauges (like the voltage meter) do not work any longer. The mechanical gauges (like the speedometer and heat gauge) work fine. The brake light for the emergency brake works. And a red light next to the voltage/charging meter briefly flashes when I start the car. All external lights work (headlights, tail lights, brake lights), so this is not a dead bulb issue. Since all dash lights stopped working, I am assuming this is not a flasher unit issue. I've also checked fuses and fusible links and they all look good. Where do I go from here? Thanks in advance for any help.
  22. Completed my installation of a fuse block to replace the ageing fusible links. Used the same Mini ANL block that Mike W used in his 260, except purchased the 4 fused output block. One 80A ANL for the alternator feed back, and three 50A for the other circuits were the fuses I used. This model has 2 inputs so I will eventually run another cable from the unused port to a inexpensive 2 output small fuse block without the digital bling for the FI links. The display has 4 led's for the fuse status, and the system volts / current. The display cycles between volts & amps about every 10 seconds and shuts itself off in 90 seconds if there is no circuit activity. A good thing, I was worried it would stay lit up all the time & was getting ready to put a small toggle switch on the ground wire for the display to kill it. Worked out well. Fairly accurate, shows my battery to be 12.9 volts when the car is off. Shows my parking / dash lights are 3 to 4 amps when on.
  23. The charge light is on in my 280zx and the things that are listed in the title are not working. I replaced the alternator with a known working one I had on hand but that didn't fix it. We've checked the fuse panel and none of those accessories are getting any power to them and we noticed that they are running from the same wire. We looked it up in the wiring diagram and it goes back to a circuit breaker but it doesn't say where the circuit breaker is. If anyone has any ideas where this circuit breaker is and any other possible causes for the issue I would love to hear them. Thanks in advance, Ben. Also, by electrical gauges I mean the secondary 1/4 tank fuel gauge, the tachometer, and the boost gauge.
  24. Hello all, I have dug through the old threads but cant seem to find anything that addresses testing the combination (dimmer) switch for the headlights on my '78 280z. I have narrowed down the problem to the switch, I think. Bulbs are good, fuses are good, continuity of circuit from the switch to the bulbs is good, even the ground return path (red with black stripe for low beam return path, red with white stripe for high beam return path). The headlight switch shown in in the picture has a white wire with red stripe that feeds constant power from the positive terminal of the battery (through fusible links first). When the dimmer switch for the headlights is in the high beam position, the switch completes the circuit when allowing the white with red stripe wire to feed power to the solid red wire which then goes on to the fuse box, and then splits into solid red (right headlight) and red with yellow stripe (left headlight). However, when the dimmer switch is in the low beam position, the solid red wire does not receive power since the rocker arm does not connect the white with red stripe wire (hot from battery) to the red wire as it does when in the high beam position. Is this how the switch is supposed to function? I already cleaned it thoroughly, contacts between rocker arm and pins are good. Any help would be greatly appreciated. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72653[/ATTACH]
  25. 81 280zx turbo blinker problem

    Hello folks, I recently bought a 1981 280zx turbo and it runs fantastic, however I have run into some electrical problems. The blinkers stopped working and I had 3 dash lights always on (Fuel, Door, and Brake). There was also a buzzing noise coming from a relay under the passenger side dash. I have no idea what relay it is, however when i disconnected it the buzzing goes away and the 3 lights turn off. Now when I engage either side of the blinker, the blinker relay behind the steering wheels buzzes away and they still do not work. Also, when I put the car in reverse the 3 dash warning lights turn back on. Does anybody have any idea what this could be and am I going to have to take out the dash and check all connections to all the relays? Any help would be much appreciated!
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