Patcon

I made some progress last weekend but not quite there yet. So I drilled out the two rivets at the switch. Replaced them with aluminum pop rivets for now. That made it better but it still didn't work. There was also a continuity issue at these other rivets The only problem is I used a grinder and as the rivet heats up it melts the housing. A die grinder might be a better choice. The LED lamp I was using worked for a moment then freaked out and wouldn't go full brightness. I ordered some more. So we'll see. I would like to replace the aluminum rivets with small copper rivets if I could find some good candidates and a proper way to staked them. They need to be about 0.095" or about 2-2.5mm OD

So Cody and I got the tachometer working tonight. Big thanks to @cgsheen1 Chuck. His explanation for current flow to the tach and back made it all make sense. I took the tip of my thumb off with a hammer tonight in the shop, so I didn't get the last piece of leather in. Opposable thumbs are really useful, as it turns out.

I have used the Zcardepot style pans in the past. It is a lot of work getting them to mate up well to the tunnel. If it were me, I would get the KF pans. I think they are better pans and will give a better finished product. You may not care today about an OEM look today but you might in ten years...

I think I would cap everything on the manifold that uses vacuum with an assortment of rubber caps. Then if you can get the engine started and sorted, add them back one at a time to check for vacuum leaks

I have a maxima rear disc conversion available you're interested...

I wonder if the needles are set too low in the pistons? Closing off the fuel with the choke off

I probably wouldn't coat a stainless header. Jet coat could probably be used though. I bought a Z story exhaust and really like it...

I got back in the shop today. Rear bumper is on. I don't like the fit but it's on for now... License plate light and hatch badges and I think the rear end is done Also worked on installing the leather pieces over the wheel arches I trimmed one of the last pieces and hemmed it with glue

That's a stainless system. Coating isn't required for longevity sake. Coating might help with heat issues

If I remember right, the Webers have an accelerator pump. So you can pump them a couple of times and omit the choke...provided they have fuel in the float bowls

SWMBO ;)

AFAIK most people don't even hook the chokes up. Evidently you can survive without them

Good looking bird!

I would not use any adhesive on the hatch glass seal. If it needs sealing later you can lift the edge of the seal and add a thin bead there

Making the frame rails alot thicker changes the handling characteristics of the chassis. It also moves the potential failure points. Unless you plan on running tremendous power I wouldn't expect thicker frame rails to be necessary