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Looks like it may just be taped off and not used

Looked hard through my pictures and I saw the wire but no shot of where it went.

Yes on the White/Red. Through the hole in the back, attach to the screw lug in the middle right.

Cody fixed the blower motor today. The cage was binding on the back of the heater box What does the blue wire from the blower fan plug go to? Cody didn't find it on the wiring diagram

320 In the tunnel there is a threaded rod that attaches the cable yoke to the handle. There are actually two threaded connections if you need it. You need to thread it out to get enough slack. Then you can adjust it to where it holds in about 5 or 6 clicks Datsun Z Hand Brake & Hand Brake Cable#20 and #11 both have threads and locknuts

I have these two wires hanging in close proximity to the connectors that attach to the 6-lead plugs coming out of the fuse box - a thick white/red and a "normal" white (that had been covered by a black sleeve. Because of the proximity, I'm confident that the white wire connects with the white wire coming out of the left side bundle from the fuse box and services the horn circuit. I think I have a good idea of where the white/red wire goes but want confirmation from one of our electrical gurus. Because it is finished with a lug, it is supposed to be held on somewhere with a screw or bolt and I think that place is the metal block located around 3 o'clock on the MSA fuse box. On my other '72 that has the OEM fuse box, the white/red wire disappears underneath the box and I haven't torn things apart to see exactly where it attaches. Can someone verify that this white/red wire does indeed go on the screw mount inside the MSA fuse box?

Two things: 1) Is there a place to get a replacement mechanism? I can only find the cable. And when you buy a brake kit it doesnt include the parking brake hardware. 2)I used to have to pull the hand brake almost all the way up to the ceiling to get it to hold, so I replaced the cable. Now I can’t get both parking brake cables connected at the same time — it’s always one side or the other. If I force it to connect, the tension is so high that the brake stays engaged constantly. I must be missing something, because no matter what I try, I can’t close the gap enough to attach both sides. I figured the new cable might just need to stretch a little, so I tried pulling on it, but nothing gives me the clearance I need to make it work. Any ideas what I’m doing wrong?

I believe, the unusual shaped wrench about halfway down on the right side is for valve adjustment to tighten and loosen the lock nuts. The other below it may be for holding the adjusting nut while tightening

I checked JDM Car Parts and Bonzi for reproductions and did not see this one. Anyone have a reproduction of this tag? Maybe good pictures of both sides? The correct green string? I found this pic on a Mecum auction for a Black Pearl.

You might remember that recently, I picked up another vintage Datsun tool Board, to the one I already had. Soon after that, a friend wrote me that he found some more. So naturally, I negotiated and was able to pick them up last week. This time, luckily, including some tools: First, I had to clean everything and sort through the boxes of tools: It included quite a funky set of homegrown tools. I wonder what purpose they were made for: Then I also spent a bit of time to remove rust and put some protective clear coat primer on the walls, to ensure they don't corrode any longer. Thanks to @Mymechanics for your support and inputs! So totally i have now 5 tool walls. That one from Germany, which is already completed and hanging in my garage, plus these four. Two Datsun ones: And two more modern ones with a Nissan branding: As you can see in the photos, many tools are there, but also many are missing. So the next step is to make an inventory of what I have and what is missing. And what the tools are for, which do not belong to these specific tool boards. Luckily, I have a lot of original Datsun / Nissan / Kent-Moore / SPX documentation about those tools, and what cars / Engines / transmissions they are intended for. And my latest acquisition also included a more modern Nissan / SPX / Kent-Moore booklet, which is nice for the Nissan branded boards: I was lucky to already find some of the missing tools. But that's only a fraction. Some of the tools will be tricky to find and might take me a few months / years to come accross. Overall, I'm quite happy. I have to find a nice place for the Datsun branded walls, and with the Nissan ones I yet have to decide if I keep them as decoration or if I sell them, if the right person comes along. Either way, it was a great find, but still some homework ahead to figure out what all these tools are used for, which car models they fit and what is missing.

@Captain Obvious How did you make your cables??

If I were looking for a Z this car fits the bill. Probably scary fun to drive. In the comments it sounds like the seller is upfront about some things that need to be fixed like the power steering.

Only the third one? Someone at the show suggested that combo is rare, but I've not looked into it. The current paint on the OG bugs me. A previous owner sprayed the outside blue, and the inside black. So it left the factory white with blue, but now it's "blueish with blackish". I spent some time before zcon working on taking the black off the inside, but ran out of time against other higher priorities. I also spend a little time experimenting with taking the blue off the outside, but could not find a chemical that would work on the blue, but not the white. In other words... I can take the blue off, but the white always comes with it. The car is very original in so many areas, but the paint is not. Bugs me.

The bots are watching. Don't mess with the bots. 😬

Here's a pretty nice modified early 240Z. Always interesting to see how modified cars do against the restored cars. Sometimes the modifieds get surprising money. I don't know how a person can post on something like BaT though without actually looking at past listings to see what bidders want to see. No driving video. Maybe the tires rub. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-341/

Ha ha. This is the world of used car sales we are talking about here. You even presume that the seller knows everything about the car? That's your schtick. Own it. Don't make me laugh. Last week you were dissing the staff and work of S30.World on this thread for all you were worth - whilst demonstrating at the same time that you knew nothing about them ("just seling car parts") - and then when the boss and a few other well-respected 'consultants' show up and post here in reply you're suddenly the wide-mouthed frog adding 'likes' to their posts. How come you didn't ask a few of them whether they had "stock options", a "paying position" or are "on the board"? Anyone with any sense can see how you operate.

Painfull but true

Zed Head- Amen

Naah. It's just about honest disclosure. That's all. As usual, you've twisted something simple in to a mass of convoluted irrationality. To what end, who knows. Again, sorry DC. I imagine that you can see how these things start. It's not a pissing battle. It's just one guy who feels like he can wizz wherever he wants to.

A buyer - or anyone else - might assume anything at all, right or wrong. But you're already on the head of that pin, positing that provenance is either important or unimportant, with no mention of the pragmatism required when dealing with 55 year old cars existing in the huge gap between those two positions. And if changing paint stickers 'removes provenance' then every car with a repro sticker - no matter if it has just the right amount of shine - is a demerit. ...and reductio ad absurdum. Ask zspert about his "alternates created of all the things that collectors usually inspect for originality". Originality is nice, but its not an infinite resource. It is necessary - for the continuation of our hobby - to repair and replace. There are industries dedicated to that end. There's not a car owned by the members of this site that would be an example of total originality. It is an impossibility and your theory is nonsense, even hypothetically.

Sorry, meant immaturity

A buyer mght assume that it came "out of the factory" in red. If "out of the factory" is meaningless then your point is valid. Changing the sticker removes a significant piece of provenance. If provenance is unimportant then your point is valid. Why not leave the green color code sticker? If provenance is unimportant then changing anything on the car is "okay". Replica body panels, paint, engine (just grind and re"stamp" the numbers on the engine or have alternate ID plates created), etc. Originality doesn't matter. Just have alternates created of all of the things that collectors usually inspect for originality. Create an alternative reality Z car. Sorry D.C.

I've got a hunch - just a feeling in my bones - that the paint is not 'Amino Alkyd Enamel' either. "False advertising"? Seriously? The repro paint sticker matches the re-paint and colour change. Do you think they should have used a sticker for the original green instead? Some of the nitpicking here is beyond parody. Not immune to the occasional malapropism, however.

After seeing your battery upgrade you have the 3rd white/blue early car that I have seen. Eiji had one in Atlanta, a guy that lives not too far from me has one dismantled in his garage and even asked me about helping to put it back together but he's been in bad health and I can't get in touch with him. That's one of my favorite color combinations.