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(this is for anyone else interested in a little information about some specifics that you raise:) 1. NONE of the above are "Coil - ". (Stock config = Coil "-" is connected to the points output of the distributor. So, new wire from the Coil "-" to your new gauge...(it will be a 2nd wire connection as the Coil "-" needs a "signal to fire" from points or an electronic ignition unit as well - your new gauge is just tapping into that signal)) 2. You don't necessarily need to jumper any of the wires in that connector, but you need to understand the coil wiring to decide whether to JUMP or just ABANDON the G/W and B/W in the connector pictured above. The stock circuit goes like this: IGN SWITCH -> B/W -> Ballast Resistor -> G/W -> Tach connector -> Loop on back of Tach -> Tach connector -> B/W -> Coil "+". The coil gets power at IGN ON through this and the Tach "senses" the flow of electricity to the coil. If you're replacing the stock Tach, the re-route of the B/W back to the Tach is not necessary - the B/W and G/W to that connector can simply be ignored (abandoned). SO - the B/W that goes to the Ballast can be connected to the Coil "+" - either through the Ballast (by removing the G/W and running a short wire from there to the Coil "+") OR bypassing the Ballast and connecting the "ballast's" B/W directly to the Coil "+" instead - IF you no longer need a Ballast Resistor in the circuit. note: I think it's better to abandon and get all that extra wire (and added resistance) OUT of the power circuit to the coil... BTW, the other two wires in that connector: Black - is a Battery Ground. R/L is gauge lighting - it's listed in the wiring schematic as "IL". So Black is the power ground for the Tach - the Tach gets power (battery voltage) from a Green in another connector.

Awesome.

Okay, I'm going to assume the battery is disconnected. Put the key in ON. Put your meter on resistance. If there is more than one setting, put it on the lowest setting. Put the positive lead on the black/white wire at the ballast resistor. Put the negative lead on the white/black wire at the T connector. (Yes, you'll probably need some help. Record the reading and report back. Swap the leads and remeasure. Record the reading and report back.

Contact Oliver at Zspecialties to see if he has any. https://zspecialties.com/ I suggest calling him at the number at that website. Over at zcar.com, his user name is zmanofwashington.

Update for all of you. We very may be in business here and you were all right - the hydraulic line was crooked/not fully seated and once I took it out and reseated it, the leak was gone. Again, I still don't understand how it didn't leak over the course of 6 years and thousands of miles, but I guess that was a good thing. I am going to bleed the brakes tomorrow just to be safe but I did bleed the master after all of this and the pedal feels good. Here are pictures of the line screwed in before, the flange/nut's condition when I took it out this evening, and how the cylinder looks now with the line in straight.

I am in Bellingham, WA 98229

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Looking for a close ratio 5 speed. I've seen a few listed here, but can't seem to find them now (plus they were over a couple years old). Hope someone here has got one that I can take off their hands!

Another component bites the dust, opened up my fuel pump relay only to find a similar fate as the ignition module. Weird part is, the relay looked like it might have been taken apart once already, but the guts say otherwise. I wonder if all the relays on the passenger side will be like this also. I pulled this link from a post I found here and ordered one. And I also pulled the color wiring diagram from here and had the local printer blow it up. Now I can actually read it.

1977 280z AFM from an EFI engine. Car had been sitting, everything looks in working order. asking $150 obo. located in Gilbert AZ

ok, will check that out, since I have already pulled the alternator, took a whole 20minutes........ I guess I can check to see if there is continuity from the battery terminal to the "T" connector? Is there a fuse inline somewhere? I know there is a fusible link come off the starter..........

Put the key in ON without the car running. Check for voltage to ground on the lower pin of the T connector on the back of the alternator (white/black wire). It should be about battery voltage. If you don't have voltage on that terminal, the alternator won't supply power.

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I worked on the heat shield/ cable bracket some more today. Here is the current pattern An earlier template on a piece of coil metal I glued it to piece of 16ga I had laying around A little cutting We will have to clearance it around some of the header pipes. Since it's an equal length header, they intrude on the carb area more than some We will use some stainless exhaust tube to deal with the clearanced areas. Once I finalize a design I will have sendcutsend fabricate it for me

I also got the tool covers from resurrected classics and got them installed A little nerve racking to bend the plastic hinges to mount them

I also bought a 123 ignition this week. We installed it today. The car runs again but cylinders 1&2 are still dead. The header pipes don't get hot. The other four are 180 - 200F pretty quick. We double checked ignition wires. Replaced the ones on 1&2. Checked all 6 with a timing light. Verified spark on the plug visually but no joy. The only thin I can figure at this point is a fuel issue. We have air, compression and spark. So it seems it has to be a fuel issue. I will remove the front carb and make sure all the passageways are clear. I don't know what else to do...

I finished cleaning the cigarette lighter up today Straightened up the bracket and blasted it. Blasted the bottom ceramic with the prongs and polished the chrome rim

I am working on installing a set of Speed Hut gauges in my 240z (my "track car"). Manufactured in 12/70, the wiring for the tach doesn't match the wiring diagrams I see online. Other than power and ground and illumination wires, the Speed Hut tachometer has a single yellow wire that is supposed to be hooked up to the "coil -". It seems to me, after looking at the stock wiring, I have to not only figure out which wire is "coil -", but I think I may have to connect some of the other stock wires together in order to "bypass" the stock tach. Color legend is: blue = L yellow = Y Black = B Red = R White = W Green = G Ignoring the wires for gauge illumination, I am looking specifically at a 4 prong connector for the stock tach. Here is what I am looking at... on the left are four wires from the harness that are in the 4 prong connector, and on the right are the four wires coming from the tach that are in the 4 prong connector: Harness wiring Description Connection Tachometer wiring Description RL red with blue stripe ---- YR yellow with red stripe GW green with white stripe ---- W white (with black band on it) B black ---- B black BW black with white stripe ---- W white (with red band on it) Additionally, I am running a Crane HI6 (multiple spark discharge) ignition which also has tachometer adapter hooked into the circuit. The ignition and adapter were previously in use and worked perfectly with the stock tach. The wiring for the ignition and adapter has been untouched since the car ran. What I need help with: Which wire is the negative from the coil? Which, if any, wires do I have to jumper together with the stock tachometer no longer in place? My guesses are: Black - connect the Speed Hut yellow wire to the black wire in the 4 prong connector Connect (jump) the green with white stripe wire and the black with white strip wire (to bypass the stock tachometer) But, I am not sure. And don't know what to do with the last of the four wires (red with blue stripe at the four prong connector).

Thanks for the replies...... I did let the battery charge overnight, and it is reading 12.8V with the meter. Tested it with my harbor freight battery tester, and it tested at 750 cold cranking amps. I pulled the Diode plug and tested it with a meter, it looks correct, shorted on the two pins, and diode tested fine on the other two pins. It does look a little melted on the top of the white plastic top... When I start up the car, and at different revs.......the battery voltage stays constant, so thinking no output on the alternator. I might yank the alternator out tonight and take it to Auto Zone and have it tested.........IF it's bad, I wonder how Motorsport Auto will deal with the warranty, it there is one......... So, do you guys go looking for a new alternator or roll the dice with a rebuilt one?

Planning to swap an R200 into my Series 1 car (12/70 build date) and am looking for the mustache bar, front diff mount and insulator and the rear transverse link mount from a later 280Z that came with the R200.

Sent PM

Awe man this is a trap!

A song with a woodworking reference. Just realized. And one about fruit with fungus in the name. What you eat you are...

Fidanza flywheel For Sale.... New, still in box. $250.00. Buyer will pay for shipping from N. Myrtle Beach, SC 29582.