Eftusk

I just used it last week to seal two holes in my head right where the water inlet attaches. You do not know how valuabe this stuff is! It saved my bacon an some cold cash too!

It does not work for me... It keeps telling me to login. I am logged in! Maybe I do not have a setting correct??? Oh well, I will try again later. Keep up the great work Mike.

Thanks for the comments Royce. I am installing an electronic ignition (crane cams) this weekend and tuning. New spark plugs and setting the timing. That will be about all. I know that the California MTBE has a lot to do with all vehicles getting fewer mpg. Any other insight is welcome too. Thanks:)

That is all the better. I think they are going to start a revolving / rotating smog year here state side next year. All vehicles newer than 30 years must pass a smog inspection. Again I am not sure if this is true. I am still OK at 1973!

It really looks similar to an alternator. I was able to get a reconditioned one at local parts stores in the late 80's for around $100.00 US. I doubt if any exist in stores anymore? If you really need one, I do not know how you can get one locally. I would use junk yards and foreign parts houses. If you would like some links or phone numbers to a few here in CA, let me know, but you will probably pay through the nose for shipping. Good luck!

Thanks for the info. Anyone else out there have anything, just let me know. Thanks...

Nice photo... I have yet to take one of mine.

I think that with the ZX tranny, you are stuck with the ZX shifter arm. I am not sure. The 83 non turbo is a better tranny, but oh well. Good luck. You can buy knobs cheap at: http://www.zcarparts.com

I took my smog pump off in 1992 and it is really 5 - 15 hp. Not the numbers you are talking. That is more like AC sucking numbers there. Sorry about the weather. GO HABS! (hockey fan)

DO NOT use power steering fluid! or tranny fluid. The power steering fluid can damage the delicate seals in the carb dashpot and tranny fluid is to thick! it will not allow the plunger to drop and will stay open. Trust me on this one... I was in a pinch once and... well you can read about it in the campfire stories. Good luck.

ABSOLUTELY!!!!! Talk about one inefficient way to get air into your carbs. I removed mine and installed ITG filters and air horns. It was pretty simple to do and took about 2 hours or so. Got a little more power out of it too with the additional air intake. The filters and horns are pretty pricy, but they weigh about 25 pounds less than that orange can! There is only one draw back. You can no longer use the air hose to preheat your carbs with your exhaust heat. Oh well... Try here: http://www.zcarparts.com or here http://victoriabritish.com ask for their free catalogs. This is one of my highly recommended "things to do" One more thing. Victoria British is so far the only supplier of the "european balance tube" the big overhead tube that connects your carbs. This one is smog fitting free baby! for us 73 and older owners. So if you are with me on the smog thing, you are going to need to handle all of your smog issues too! Some of the smog hoses go into that orange can which will no longer be there. I just grabbed some 1/4 NPT's (national pipe thread) fittings and some nylon tape and removed the smog cr@p off the balance tube and used these to plug the holes! Good luck with the mod and have fun driving it afterwards!

Royce, I hate it when those damn things stick. I had to completely rebuild my carbs using ZTherapy rebuild kit (nice)

I use the junk yard! HA, seriously though. I have a 73, and that was the first year to use the electric. Mine actually has or had both. I had to re - route the fuel lines around the electric. Piece of CR@P those are. Boy what a monkey rig those 73's are. They originally had the larger bastard child carbs with all the trimmings, smog trimmings that is. I have early SU's so I kinda eliminated the electric after it stopped and I saw how expensive they are. Hope you solve your problem Mike. Keep up the great work. Love this stuff!

Any question that is not asked is the dumb one. A 2+2 is a two seat two door car with an additional 2 seats. A coupe is just the two seats. Some wise guy decided to call the boot a door and hence you get some people calling them two door hatch back, three doors. It is just as you say 2+2 or coupe. Nothing to do with how many doors. I wish you luck finding a Z in NZ, shouldn't be too tough. They are all over the place down under.

Do you use the manual choke? if you do and it is still doing that, then you either need the choke lubed and adjusted, or your ignition points are closed up and need to be replaced. I have the exact same problem. Two words for you: electronic ignition!

Howdy all, I have a 73, early SU's with air horns and ITG filters. I have started putting lower octane gas into my tank and have not really noticed a performance drop. Hills are fine, temperature and predetonation are fine. My question is: How important is it to have a lead substitute for our Z's without the hardened valve seats? It drives me crazy. The day CA gas went to that stupid MTBE crap, my gas mileage went from the mid 20's (22-26) to the low 20's high teens (16-21). Is that just the gas, or am I missing something else? If anyone has any info, shoot it my way!

Dale, Do you live near Jefferson and Lincoln streets in Napa or were you refering to Santa Rosa?. I have seen a similar Z like your photo in that area of Napa. This site is starting to bring Z owners that may not be exactly neighbors closer. Gotta give my regards to Mike for this awesome forum. My friend Corey drives a black 280ZX with yellow trim, Dave drives a primer 240Z with a white 280Z bonnet and loads of extras My 73 is faded white with louvres. A running restoration with some nice additions. Drop me a line sometime. We all live in Napa. eftusk@juno.com

www.zcarparts.com

My friends and I live in Napa. We know the former head of ZONC. I think there are some more in SF and such. I am not really into clubs, but I know several people who own Z's.

Timberwolf: I also own a 73, so here is my take on your mods. I have a friend, very close, that has done most of what you are going todo. First with the rear disc brakes. You can not properly mount the caliper onto anything on the strut housing on the 240. There are only three ways to get around this. First: Get a mounting "ring" from a 240SX for the rear calipers. I think Nissan is out of them and only one year will work and I do not know which it is. Second: Weld a mount onto your existing strut housing (extremely unreliable) and Lastly: Replace your rear strut towers with the 280Z ones. Other problem you will run into will be that there is nowhere for the emergency brake cables to go on either side. If you are looking for more braking power, try the four piston caliper swap on the front. I do not have a link for that yet. The differential: If you plan on putting in an R200, you WILL NEED THE MOUSTACHE BAR TOO! along with the diff mounting bar (underneath) and mount. If you are looking for optimum acceleration or maximum overdrive, then do your homework on gear ratios. I think the 83 non-turbo gear box is the best for accleeration with the 76 R200. Again, I am not too sure. My friend can probably help you more since he has already done most of what you plan on. His e-mail is: d.record@worldnet.att.net His name is Dave and if you give him a buzz, tell him Jeff sent you.