240znz

Arhar...you mean shocks...not struts....arghhhh...that registers in my tiny brain. Merci:sleep:

This is one of those "should have know that" questions. Zmefly...why did you need to replace those struts. I keep hearing of this being done but I can't figure out why you'd want to do so. Is it becuase the struts are rusted out? A strut is just a metal tube with a spring hanger...why but new ones? Sorry if this sounds dumb.... gezzzz:rolleyes:

Yep I agree with you Mike....I brought the first ever RGV250 model on the day of first release from the Suzuki dealer when I was 19......rode it off the side of a small cliff 3 days later....I sold that bike some 1.5 years on as I knew that I'd have to get rid of it or it would get rid of me....too much power and not enough mind power to stop using it all the time. Now I'm 34 means that I can get another one.....I made a deal with the wife...either a 748/996 or a 240Z.......I'll get the Zed first then dream somemore about the Ducati. Boy racers never die

This Zed was at the Rio Vista meet this year. The link to these pic's is http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4291924083 Anyway....does anyone know who owns the BLUE Zed ?....just a wild stab in the dark really. Nice little 1/4 airdam...looks like it's home made or it is? Haven't seen that one about at all...any ideas if it's commercially available? Those wheels look like 17's to me...what do you think? For some reason I can't attach the pic so here is the link instead. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid18/pa0d8eaf358adbe8bd46ce2812ce13b3b/fdd2f6e0.jpg.orig.jpg

NZ$1600 (US$715) RB20DET + gearbox or NZ$2800 (US$1252) RB25DET + gearbox, both were a cheaper option than buying triple webers alone in New Zealand. Motor year is 94. I'm sure there was someone on this site advertising RB engines. Have a scout about or start a thread.

Use 3 x DCOE Weber sidedrafts not downdrafts if you go to triples....there is no point making the fuel/air mix go though 90 degress...it would just add turbulance and that = less power delivery. I don't think that you'd get much more out of 45 twins that you'd notice vs the SU's...goto triples if you have to change from SU's. There is a lot more you could do other than just bolting on carbs...cam, electronic ignition...have you forgotten BRAKES...they come in handy too.

Check out HS30-H post on this thread. It explains the S20 head in some detail as well as a helpful intro into RB engines. You might be better of dropping in a RB instead of NOS or a S20 and you'll see a huge difference in power and economy too. I can't figure out how to insert the link so go search option at the top of the main page and type in S20. You want the thread called What is the RB25DE Motor?

What is required to paint the chrome window surrounds black. Is it just a matter of taking them to a paint shop and they do the rest, or is there some prep work you can do before hand. I'm just curious as I've seen a few pics of cars with black trim and they looks great with a dark body colour. Any help appreciated.

Gidday GLOWZ and welcome, IMO triples are a PITA...unless you enjoy tuning tuning tuning or are going to be driving your Z up at high revvs all day long or intend to race it. Just trying to sync them would be a ..:eek: :tapemouth You might be dissapointed with gain you may get...but that induction ""gooorup" note is ..well...like mothers milk. Those SU's you have are great...I had twin DCOE's on a A14 engine and I was forever tuning them....maybe it was just me but I found them a big PITA. Just my 2 pence.

Excellent chat boys.... A 2+2 doesn't (not does'nt ZXTACY...double Drrrr...DOH DOH DOH!!!!!) look all that bad if you don't even have a Z like me....however I won't be rushing out to get a 2+2 just yet. As a Kiwi, and I moral person, I find ZXTACY's remarks a little dated. The Aussies are a fine bunch of sun loving, fun loving laid back people who have there fair share of indifferent history like us all. You'll see that most Aussies are very happy and proud to say that they are just that...who will forget the Sydney Olympic games in a hurry...great world event. Can't knock em mate....you're on a loser there. Most Aussies and Kiwi's are well travelled. It appears that some of our members should take note of this and get out more often...gezzzz...where did the phrase "RED NECK" come from? Anyway...we all share the common love of Z's. Remember.... It's pronounced.... :tapemouth

I stand corrected. The 6R4 Metro was a V6 (based on the V8 Rover donk with two cylinders chopped out) with FI...no turbo, but 4WD. A Clubman 6R4 will set you back about £12K if you can find one of the 200 ever made....so if you can get on for zero....it must be a heap. There were three WRC 6R4's but you'll be lucky to find one of those. If not then you have the sale of the century...pay the money and get it. But my experience with BL and MG engines is they are horrid little things that should be used as anchors...IMHO. I had a Mini Cooper S (nick named it "The Brick" for obvious reasons). It was a ex rally car with much done, cage, S disks, S bucket seats, hardie spicers, DCOE 45, major head work, major crank work, SCCR box..the works...very very quick off the line. However...it was still a brick and I waved it goodbye with a massive grin when I sold it...horrid thing. Bought a Datsan and very looked back. Just getting used to imperial socket sets was confusing enough 3/16 this 3/8 that...ever tried to remove a flywheel off a mini....mine took out the side of the garage...man did it shift off....OK..I was jumping on a strong arm extension of about 3 feet with my best mate pushing against the block to stop the twist...then bam....turned out it has hairline fractures through it....hmmm and guess where the flywheel sits in relation to your crown jewels...that's right...if it tears loose..those little teeth cut through the ali cowl and rip right through the fire wall right up between your legs...horrid tings minis. I degress....:tapemouth The "poms" weren't very good at making cheap cars...the engineers from Japan are famous for taking a BL engine and turning it into a real motor. Just look at the Datsun A series engines. Rumour has it they were based on a MG/BL 1275 engine but done properly. The mini engine had only 3... ...yup..3 main bearings and a gear box that shared the engine oil:sick: . My God...what were they thinking....can you tell yet...I really lost my rag with British Leyland and Morris Garages.... Calm...breath...drink water.......:mad: IMHO the only great cards to come out of "Blightly" are the old Jag's and Land Rovers.

You'd be keen to import a Metro unless it was a autocross mid engined turbo monster capable of launching itself from 0-60mph and back in 6 sec....metro's are rust buckets IHMO...yuck

Which do you think is the more trouble......yikes

You've now opened a massive can of "customs" worms. You'll need to call you customs to check that out. The NZ law (can't be too far from AUSSIE law but most probably more difficult) the current owner must not sell the vehicle that they are importing for 3 years. That way they avoid the GST charges at 12.5% and duty charges. I imagine that customs would also be wise to a car coming into AUS and not the owner with it...hmmmm sounds like too much of a scheme to me. Are you thinking of importing a 300ZXTT? :eek:

I'll make a few phone calls to confirm that freight price. Yes there is a lot of tax to pay when you land it. GST+ +++++ . The only way you can get around paying through the nose is to own the vehicle and be resident in the UK for 2 or 3 years. You'll need to check will Aussie customs for the exact figures. The best is to get your English wife (slight hitch there) to put the car in her name and then import it when she immigrates...no tax to pay at all......hmmmmm...gets me a thinkin. But still after all the costs...I think you will still be better off buying a car locally unless it's a love affair or rare as rocking horse sh*t. I'll post a reply later:D

Nice one Zep....keep me posted.

Thanks Zep, A little to early for me as I'm not back until Sept. I'm also after an original base car...then slowly add what I want. The idea is if I ever want to put it back to original, then I'll have all the original parts...this one on offer does not and I'd not want to buy somebody's ex weekend fun car...chances are that engine has had a hard time of it. I'm sure someone will want it though and I'm sure he will accept less due to what I have said above....quite a bit less I think. I'll keep lookin though. Cheers

Check out the supercharged beast...OMFG...just hang on and hope kinda car...yikes.

I've looked into this as I was thinking of shipping one back to NZ from the UK. Not good news..about £3000. With the import duites on top and, you are looking at a very expensive car.

Great work Kmack...got to love that red:)

I just need to add a bit here. When you turn your key to start your engine, the circuit bypasses the ballast resistor and applies 12VDC to the coil. Volts then goto your spark plugs via your points. In additon to not buring out your coil (which I have never heard of before...thanks Daniel), the ballast resistor drops the 12VDC down to about 8 volts. While 8 volts does not provide the strongest spark, it does go a long way to saving those old points you use...and it does the trick. Just imagine how many times those little points are opening and closing very second at 3000RPM...scarey. So, when you go to a electronic dizzy you replace the points with a solid state or magnetic sensor. So no burn out. Here's is the next benefit, get rid of that ballast resistor and you'll not only get rid of "something else to go wrong" but you'll have a really strong spark at all revs. Best of course is not having to tune it so often. Just make sure you swap out your coil for one that can handle the extra voltage constantly. Zed not Zee :sleep:

Yep, it's a head gasket alright. Another place to check for foam is underneath the old cap. I think that this is one of the first places where it will show up. Good luck changing that gasket. Zed not Zee

I had a similar problem on a A14 engine. When I got off the gas it puffed blue out the back...it was a combo of bad seals and too much slop down the valve guides. Took the head off and send it off to a machine shop to get it refaced and changed the guides. Cleaned up the values and lapped them. Put it all back and no smoke at all. I'm not saying that it will work for you but I'd try replacing the seals before ripping into a full rebuild. Also a compression leak test would be a very good idea too. It will give you a idea about how bad the ring is. Additions and corrections welcome. Zed not ZeeROFL

Alphadog, Have you checked to see if your transmission tunnel has been cut around where the shifter comes through..if so then it has probably been put in after. Saying that..New Zealand and Austrailian Z's do have different spec's to the US so maybe you do have a factory unit in there. Good question. Can anyone shed some light for us??? Zed not Zee

$500 for a 240 without the big ugly rust monster......wow...the lord does move in mysterious ways.....good shopping Rev. Zed not Zee