2ManyZs

Well Dave, I thought you might have been ready to spring a surprise on us....:classic: I didn't know he still had his IT car.. seems everyone else has gotten rid of them and gone over to the "other" side....:disappoin Eric, I'd be wary of mounting it under the exhaust like that as the box itself is going to act as a bit of a heat sink.. It's a good idea, just maybe not the best place to mount it. Not only will it absorb heat off the exhaust and the block, the only air flow it will be getting down there will be air coming through the radiator, which will be much warmer than the outside air, due to it's being warmed on its way through the rad. I've seen many people mount them on the drivers side inner fender, usually close to the radiator support so that the air coming throught that one opening would cool it. Some people even ran a short hose from the opening and ended it near the MSD box. I'd tend to agree with Dave, I'd mount it either on the passengers side, or on the firewall, either inside or out.

I have bought bolt-on valve stems from Pegasus Auto Racing in the past that should work OK. They have a lock nut on the top side(outside) of the rim and are chrome plated... Length is approx. 1" to 1.2" depending on how thick the rim flange is, this would be how high it sits above the rim. www.pegasusautoracing.com Part number is #3334.. and they are $3.79 each

Uh yeah.....:disappoin

ITS car Dave? Did I miss something?

240-280 inner fender should give you a patch panel that will work except for the fact that 90% of the cars you will find will have some kind of rust under there....

Well, here are your dimensions... http://www.msdignition.com/1ignstre.htm If you are planning on mounting this box to the engine I would strongly caution against it. Too much heat and vibration..... I wouldn't mount the coil there either becuase of the heat issue.

Haggerty's does have a lot of restrictions on your use of the car, but seems like you can get policies to suit your needs... maybe you just got a customer service rep that didn't know what they were doing...:cross-eye Most auto insurance companies do offer the same type of "agreed upon" value policies, you usually will be required to either submit photos of the car or have it appraised and more than likely their premiums will be higher than the specialty insurance carriers. I'd continue shopping around...

Hmmm, last time I was in a Doctors office I came out looking like this....:cross-eye :cross-eye :paranoid:

I'd do the rust repairs first as you will need to do a fair bit of disassembly of the interior and engine compartment to do the repairs correctly. There are two Z clubs in your area, the MD Z club and the Z Car Clib of Northern VA, so if you contact them, perhaps someone in your area can take a look and possibly offer a referral to a good place to have the repair work done. I'm not too far away if you are on the west side of DC if no one else can do it locally...

Mike, the main reasoning behind the left hand drill bit is this. If you have a broken bolt, and drill a pilot hole for an E-Z Out, when you insert the E-Z Out, you are forcing it into a hole that is smaller than the E-Z Out, therefore you are applying extra outward pressure which is increasing the forces on the threads. While using a left hand drill bit, you will be lessening the amount of metal in the center of the broken bolt, which lessens the outward pressure on the threads which hopefully will allow the heat and torque of the drill to retract the bolt when the drill bit is digging into the metal. While you are lessening the pressure on the threads, you are at the same time applying force to back the bolt out at the same time. Of course this only works when you can drill the pilot hole as near the center as possible. After drilling the pilot hole, you can then use the next size drill bit to enlarge the pilot hole, and sooner or later one of them is going to either take so much out that the drill bit will back what is left right out, or one of the drill bits will more than likely dig itself into the bolt and back it out. Ever tried to enlarge a hole in a piece of metal and have the drill bit end up only making a couple "threads" and the bit runs itself in all the way and the only way to get it out is to reavers the drill?

There is no problem getting to the spare as the speaker panel only sets out maybe an extra inch further than the stock plastic panel. It would be easy to make with a 1/2 sheet of 1/2" plywood.. just have to get the dimensions correct. If you have someone that is good with woodworking, they could probably make one up in an hour or so, then all you'd have to do is drill the holes, cut out for the speakers and cover it.

Yup... MX5=Miata....

Could be a good deal if people don't start a bidding war on them... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33701&item=2410160086

Cams are re-ground and the rockers are probably just polished... you could have the same thing done to the ones you have for about the same price as buying replacements. I'd want something better than "re-built" or "re-manufactured" inside my engines if you are going to spend the time and money to build an engine....Just my opinion though...

It's wasn't a joke Mike..... From the Northern Tool Automotive Equipment & Supply Catalog:

TOG, I have one and it looks pretty good. Not sure that it's worth the money though... but I'm one of those people that can't make a straight cut in a board with a table saw... so I took the easy way out..... Only problem I had fitting mine in, was the holes were just off enough that I had to do a little filing to slot them as I couldn't get one screw to start. After I got that done, it goes in and out easily...

You don't really have to, but I would just to make it a bit easier... Hard to get them out from the front without damaging them, so if you have the heater out, you might try it from the back.... IIRC there are a couple mounting bolts up under the dash board on the kick panels that are kinda hard to see without having the box out... Been a long time since I took a dash out, so I could be wrong on that one...

I think Mike needs to spend less time watching HBO late at night and spend more time on his web-site....

This e-mail was sent out to all the Z Car Clubs, so I thought I should post it here for all the members who don't belong to other organized Z Clubs: To All, The convention gets closer and closer every day. We are actually only 6 months away. Spring has arrived (even in New England) and Z's are everywhere. Our club is getting a steady stream of new 350Z owners. Registrations are steady and the hotel is filling up. Mr. K and others have already signed up to attend. Steve Millen will be one of the guest speakers and will be driving on track day in the Avalon Racing GT-2 Race car. We have a ton of other surprises to make this a very memorable convention. A lot of Mr. K's friends are also coming. We also anticipate a lot more sponsors as we get closer to the event. Some other key notes: New Hampshire International Motor Speedway is booked and paid for. The autocross is ready to roll. The SCCA and NASCAR Safety crews are ready to roll. The Poker run is t4ested on a regular basis. The Car show is under contract and ready to go Final plot plans are in the works for the car show. I can not stress how important it is to register early to insure you get into the host hotel as the much reduced rate of $119.00 per night. Also some events are limited so we encourage all those traveling from out of state to register early to insure your members can participate in the events. PLEASE INSURE THIS INFORMATION IS ADDED TO YOUR NEWS LETTERS. Convention information can be found at the official convention web site @ www.zccne.addr.com We budgeted very low to insure we had a financially sound convention. Based on this I have attached the major events and the percentage full at this time. Clearly the number of registrants can be increased and actually expect them to. The track, autocross, and car show are limited in number to provide a safe environment and for the show proper time to insure quality judging and time for Gold Medallion/Gold Cup reviews. Now is the time for the big push, to get everyone signed up and ready to go. We are excited about bring you this convention and are doing everything humanly possible to insure a safe and wonderful experience. Regards Paul Gasparola President - ZCCNE Convention Chairman Paul Gasparola Avalon Racing 6 Jason Drive Londonderry, NH 03053 *PHONE - (603) 425-2270 * FAX - (603) 218-6149 *Cellular Phone: (603) 490-8285 * MAIL - Internet: paul@avalonracing.net ____________________________________________________

Hmm, so many questions... The floor pans you are looking at are nearly identical to the ones that MSA sells as their Premium Floor Pan kit. Either supplier is good. I'd leave the bushings alone until all the other problems are solved, you might as well do the bushings when you get around to doing other suspension repairs, such as strut cartridges springs, etc... Carpet, well, Too Intense has a decent set from what I've heard from members who have purchased them. Rember to give him your IZCC number so he knows that his ad on the site is drawing in business so he will continue to advertise..:classic: He also has re-upholstery kits for the seats as well. If you replace the floors, you could coat them with POR-15, which should offer at least a little sound deadening, which along with new carpet and backer ought to help. Antenna might be a high dollar item, as the ones I've seen on Ebay are going for 100+...Suppliers aren't going to be any cheaper either as MSA's price is 144+

Yah, there are two filaments, but only one is for the turn signals and/or hazard lights.. the other is for the taillight.

Have you tried replacing the flasher? If the indicator for the turn signal does come on in, but it doesn't blink it could be the flasher....