2ManyZs

I don't know, but the script part of the emblem looks exactly like the 240Z that was on the hatch on the US cars or is it just me? I'm just wondering if it would be possible to somehow separate the script portion from the medallion and replace it with the script portion that attached to the hatch, minus the mounting studs.... Couldn't even change badging? Yikes.... I'd hate to be in a hurry and get pulled over just because a badge didn't match.

Just for the heck of it, I went out and measured both of the Grant wheels I have. One measures ~11 1/4 inside, and ~13 3/4 outside The second one is ~10 1/2 inside, and ~13 outside. What I don't know, is which one was advertised at 13 inch, or 14 inch..... of if both were advertised as 13's.... The are both different styles, and the thickness of the rims is very different between the two. To be safe, I'd say go with a 14 inch wheel, which, will probably be slightly smaller than the original, while still being large enough that it won't affect the steering effort too much. The 13 inch wheel I've got is fine when used along with the short steering arms.

That's a darn good question..... I looked around on some of the wheel manufacturers sites in their FAQ's and such, and couldn't find the answer.

All this talk about the C-pillar emblems got me curious as to what I had in my drawer in the shop. Unfortunately, all the used ones I found have (or had) the white Z, but I did find something that made me happy. The replacement emblems I got from MSA a few years ago for the 71 aren't the cheap plastic ones but the original metal ones.:classic:

Well Dwight, I guess I'll back you up on the liking Steely Dan. There's was the first cassette in my collection. Nothing compares to Meatloaf's "Paradise by the Dashboard Light" IMO Second most favorite would be Bob Segar's "Mainstreet" for cruising...:cheeky:

If you are going to replace the complete floors and rails, be sure to get the best available, which are the Zedd Findings floor pans, or the premium pans from Motorsport(supplied by ZeddFindings) as they are much thicker and the closest copy of the originals.

The 180 is fine with darn near anything an L series can put out. The only time you'd need the R-200 would be with an RB or V-8 swap. The 180 can be upgraded to a LSD as easily as the R-200, and the Quaiffe unit for the 180 is a couple hundred cheaper to boot.

Errr, Chloe has had them listed on her site the whole time...... She's even got the rear taillights too....

If nothing has to be changed (according to him), you might want to check that it is in fact an R-200, it could be an R-160 from a 510 that had the 3:90 from the factory, or an R-180 from either a 200SX or 4x4 truck.

Bullit would have to rate as my all time favorite, with "Dirty Mary, Crazy Larry" in second.

Guess it's been a while since I drove through there, I know where you're talking about. Right across from the Post office. If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll drive up thru "the big city"and see what is there.

Hmm, never seen one in Maurertown, but if you want someone to help you look it over let me know. I can show you where to look for problems, I've seen enough of them I can spot them from a distance usually. Hmm, just happened to find this one on Ebay in Richmond that looks to be in darn nice shape, although the pics don't show the underside, judging by the outside, it might just be in good shape. But, you can see the price is a bit higher than your budget at this time.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2462033908&category=6187 Here's one in Roanoke, gonna go cheap, but, it's showing major rust issues on the outside, and I'd imagine the underside isn't much better....:disappoin I got scare when I saw the rockers and the lower front fenders and didn't dare look at the rest of the pics. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2462872439&category=6187

Yeah, it's not bad up there. Not like it used to be when they were building the Seaway though( just a little before my time though). It was a real "boomtown" for a while when they were building the Seaway, the locks and the Moses Power dam. You'd have liked the calls trips we used to take in grade school, we got to go thru the tunnels under the locks that ran from one side to another so people could get from the visitors center to the main building in an emergency. Biggest thing going up there now is with the State Police watching the reservation, and the Border Patrol catching the drug runners coming out of Canada by way of the reservation.....:cross-eye

Yup, just down the road.... I know where a few rusted out ones are, but none that are in decent shape that are for sale in your price range, at least not close by. There's only 3 or 4 of us here in Shenandoah county that have early Z's that I know of. There was another member here in Woodstock that was selling a 240 about a year ago as he was moving out of the area, but I don't know if it sold or where it ended up. I've got one in the back yard that can show you where all the rust prone areas are unfortunately.

Hmm, I spent 17 years growing up in Massena, NY.....:devious:

Depending on where you are in VA, the first place to look would be with one of the VA Z clubs. For the price you are willing to pay, to get the best possible car, I'd be looking west, like California. Most of the cars in this area, that are in good condition will command a bit higher prices since there are less of them in this area. California is loaded with Z's compared to VA, and you'll get one with less rust issues for the money. In my opinion, you ought to save up some more, as many cars in the 2K price range will require a lot of work, perhaps doubling your investment just to make it safe to drive on the road. That is, unless you are willing to make it a long term project.....

Born in Texas, claims NY as "home", lives in SC..... talk about an identity crisis.....

I think you may be referring to the "Sports Option" catalog, which is similar to the Nissan Competition Catalog (what we had in the US), offering factory approved equipment designed for motorsports.

The first Z that came from the factory with a LSD wasn't until 1987. If yours has one, it would have had to have been put in as an add on. Nismo still offers them although they are pricey(700+) and becoming harder to find for the R-200's and R-180's. Quaiffe has one that fits, and is similar to the Torson units, but they are usually 900+ dollars.

Take a look here to figure out what are buying first. The R-160's will fit a 240, but they aren't as strong as the R-180, so if you are planning any future engine upgrades you'll have to take that into account that your diff may not hold up. V-8 conversions, Turbo conversions will require a stronger diff. http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm#Where%20does%20Subaru%20Fit%20in?

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html Of course, you never know what a previous owner may have installed......

Depends on what you are referring to as a heat coating. Jet Hot or something like that or the brush on types you can get at speed shops? I've seen a few racers that have taken the time and money to have their intake manifolds and cross over Jet Hot coated on the outside. Due to the rules they can only do the outside and not the inside. Does it make a big difference? Not one that could be felt in the seat according to the one who I know. It does however look darn good. If it were done inside and out, I think the benefit of doing it would increase as it would reduce the heat transfer in and out of the manifold by somewhat isolating the manifold material from all heat sources. In other words, I doubt it would be worth the time and money unless it's done inside and out, where you will reap the largest benefit. Same with the headers. If it is done only on the outside, the metal is still in contact with the hot exhaust gases, which will end up causing the metal to act as a heat sink which will hold the heat, while if it is coated on the inside, the more of the heat will escape thru the exhaust and not have the chance to heat up the metal.

Hmm, I've never seen one like that, and never even noticed the pics in his book either.....:cross-eye Maybe an aftermarket replacement part that is NLA?

I haven't contacted him yet, as I want to see what it will look like cleaned up, I don't want to get his hopes up only to find out there's something wrong that is hidden under all the dirt and grime.... As far as my "collection" goes, unfortunately it's more parts than anything right now.... :stupid: