EScanlon

That picture is of my car. Those were the Original OEM Option as offered by Nissan. I bought mine through Zedd Findings, Charlie Osbourne out of Canada. Now, from what he tells me these were one of the last group out of Japan. Since you're in Melbourne it might be possible to still buy through there. If you should by chance find them, give me a PM as I might be interested in a second pair. Note, they aren't cheap. The lowest I've seen them listed (2 years ago) was $120.00 US each. I paid closer to $150 plus shipping and telegram fees. As far as the mounting, I'll post that in a follow up message. Enrique Scanlon

I'll post my vote this way: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2603&size=big&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 Enrique

Ok, are you volunteering to find out the final price and where the winning buyer calls home? I'd pay a penny to see that.

From what I can see in the pictures, it looks accurate for a 71. The console matches mine, the ashtray is forward of the shifter. No vent hatches is consistent with the c-pillar venting. Holes in the steering wheel consistent with the 71 model. Early 71's in the states had the solid steering wheel spokes, as they were "technically" 70 model cars. Don't forget that while the U.S. for the ~most~ part uses a Sep to Aug "Model" year, whereas Japan was using a Jan-Dec. As a result, the vehicles manufactured after September 70 were STILL 70 model vehicles. Due to the transit time and time to sale many were still being sold well into 71. Then when the new production for 71 started being imported, the car shows the changes, BUT then you have TWO variations for a 71 year Z. At least as far as the U.S. is concerned. Please note (especially :devious: Alan): I SPECIFICALLY said in the U.S., as some of these Year / Model / Spec anomalies are strictly of American manufacture and not because Datsun changed their model half way through. Ever heard of a 75 or 76 (and possibly more ) 260 ? They got them in Australia, Japan, and Europe, but NOT in the U.S.. As far as the car on e-Bay, if it is HALF as good as he describes, it is definitely worth it.....for someone in the Northeast. I don't think the cost of transporting it back to the Midwest or back to the Left Coast would be worth it in this case. I would expect it to go for about $4k West Coast and about $12k East coast. 2¢

George: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." That's an Americanism for you. That is, the car works, you get good power and you don't get any arcing. Why muck with it? Just to prove that the resistance of your new wiring is close / same / different (and why) than what the book says? Don't forget that the specs on the car ARE 30+ years old. Has technology changed in that time period? Bottom line, if you see arcing in your spark plug leads....CHANGE THE LEADS. But I wouldn't go removing, testing, and replacing the leads JUST to check their value. 2¢

Yes, but just barely. It mostly depends on what size compressor motor you have. I have a 3hp 30 gallon and although it works, I wish it were both a bigger tank and more horse, to get the pressure back quicker. 2¢

If you look at the visor itself, right where the length of steel rod enters the body of the visor, you should spot a screw that seems to go THROUGH the visor but it doesn't, it's just on one side. this screw is the one Alfa is referring to. It tightens down a "clamp" of steel around the steel rod that goes through the body. If you can't see it when the visors are in the UP position, then lower them and look on the back side. 2¢

When I had my car to that point, I thought they would make EXCELLENT speaker mounts for an OUTRAGEOUS sound system. Can you imaine? A pair of Bose 901 located just behind the seats, or a pair their Acoustimass with the woofer in the spare tire well. Luckily, I didn't have the budget for a major high fidelity purchase. 2¢

Browse the forums first. I think you'll find that just checking on the older posts will more than answer your question as far as what to look for and where to look for. As far as to whether it is worth it to restore or not; If you are looking for an investment opportunity....forget it. If you are looking to work on a car, spend some money (and sometimes big $) in order to get it running just right and be able to drive it around and know people are looking at it somewhat enviously....go for it. Sadly, the cost of repairing, replacing, and repainting a car that needs it, at this point in time, makes it NOT a good return on investment. Figure you can spend up to $5-6k and STILL find items you wish had been taken care of. There will be some who will argue that for $5 to 6K they would expect the car to be perfect before they would buy. Well don't confuse EXPECTATIONS with ACTUAL SALES. You are much better off buying as complete and pristine a vehicle as you can. Even if that means spending more money. I recently saw a 71 Z Garage Queen. She'd been driven very little (less than 50k original) still had original tires, engine bay was pristine, no rust, interior was as close to perfect as you can imagine. The vehicle is for sale. He wants about $12k-$15k. Will he get it? Probably. Like I said, this car had never spent a night outdoors. Is it worth it? I think so. All you would have to do to this car is give it a wax job, and maybe a slight touch up on some of the interior silver trim. Could you restore a vehicle to the same status as the garage queen? You bet, but not for $15K. 2¢

The numbered statements are actually taken from a comedian's routine. Don't remember who the comedian is but I do recall seeing the video of it. Where swearing and other uses of expletive language are commonly used in Stand Up Comedy, in written form they take on a different meaning and import. To most of us who would agree that there's altogether too much use of "foul" language these days, we need to remember that to these people, OUR idea of FOUL language is not at all what they are used to. In fact, to us, it seems as though they CANNOT SPEAK without using expletives. The main difference between this post and "Boobs" is that in "Boobs" you read the title, then read the post and warning THEN clicked to see a picture. This post on the other hand, has the warning and the language on the same page AND in the same post. Kind of like #6. "Would you like to see some Sh!t?" While holding up a double handful. In fact, you can read the whole text posted, and simply ELIMINATE the expletive and the content does not change. However, the assumption that we're all too stupid or naive to know what four asterisked word could be used in the edited / censored document, and then following it up by a phonics class on what the word was in an effort to see if it could be pushed past the sensors, is just simply childish.

Electricity can be deceptively simple and confoundingly complex in one statement. Ohm's Law while being one of the basic precepts of electronics is also one of the hardest to "get down pat". If you break it down into two statements, like Tanny mentioned, it becomes easier to grasp. The relationship he mentions is: Voltage (E) = Current (I) multiplied by Resistance ® E = I * R By manipulation: I = E / R and R = E / I This all gets combined into the little circle divided into one half piece and then two quarter pieces. With the letters arranged this way: E ===== I | R Now, with all the mathematic gibberish out of the way, we can discuss the basics of ohm's law. Basically it says that the amount of electrons going THROUGH a wire (current; I ) is inversely related to the opposition (resistance; R ) of the wire's composition AND directly related to the amount of strength (voltage; V or E ) So the MORE power (Voltage) you apply to a given circuit the more Current you will get limited by the Resistance inherent in the material. Hope this helps Enrique

In order to try to maintain all postings regarding RUST PREVENTION inter-connected, I'm going to post a few URL's from prior discussions we've had. This way, when someone pops on and wants to add to an existing, or post a new, we can link them with each other. If others can think of other Rust Prevention links that should be added, please chime in. Enrique Scanlon Rocker Panel Rust Prevention and Retrieving Rivet Pins: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1631&highlight=RUST+PREVENTION Cowl Drain and Front Fender Rocker Area Rust: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5213&highlight=COWL+DRAIN Avoiding Rust Traps: (THIS posting's prior incarnation.) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4243&highlight=COWL+DRAIN

If you look in My Gallery you'll find a couple pictures of my under fender area with an extended hose. That's what you have to do to extend the cowl drain so that it doesn't dump all the crud and water into this area of the fender. Unfortunately, that's the MAIN reason this kind of rust happened. 2¢

Having just bought a set and installed them, I'll offer a "plausible" hypothesis. These items also help to protect the sheet metal from the bumper ends. Remember, these cars got transported chained from the general bumper area to the floor of a transport ship. The ship rocks, the cars shift and create stresses on the body due to the point of anchors. A bumper end can EASILY get too close to the body. So, you device this item, to protect the body during transport. Marketing decides that a spin on how it's ALSO supposed to stop people who get "hooked" (Nice play on the word "hook" there...) on the car....Voila! Double the mileage from a part that is going to save us from having to re-paint the chipped paint under warranty. American dealers get the cars, and having heard that these were "packing materials" decide to remove them from the car. They're a bitch to put in and out, but they CAN come out if you're not looking to save it. Hence, they get removed from cars prior to delivery and showroom. The American Public gets to know the car WITHOUT the rubber end caps. In later years, people looking to restore the car, find this part listed in the micro-fiche. Hence, it was a part that CAME with the car....Voila! Restoration Excess? That's a good question. The way the piece is held in, the back edge of the bumper ends up looking kind of like a spoon, the rubber wraps BOTH inside and outside the lip, and the body is thick enough to require some pressure between the body and bumper. (A side note, it really helped to push the bumper and body away from each other in my car.) So, you literally loosen the side bumper both at the body and at the bumper center to insert the rubber cap. Removal on the other hand? A simple knife cut around the outer rip to the edge of the bumper and you can slide the rubber remains down and out . FWIW

The Hitachi Radios Ground to the chassis via the radio chassis mounting bolts. There isn't a separate wire to ground the radio. If you used the RED / BLUE wire on the radio harness to connect to ground, then you've grounded the instrument and radio light circuit, which would cause it to blow. 2¢ Enrique

If you are referring to the seal that is on the front edge of the quarter window, those are available yet. That is the seal that the door's stainless window frame seals to. If on the other hand you are referring to the seal that the quarter window is housed in, those are usually available in pairs. Hope this helps. Enrique

Mike said it best regarding Primer finish autos. If that is the finish you want, then Primer OVER a base coat of paint. The Base Coat of Paint will make it so that moisture won't creep down to the metal and cause surface rust. Regarding the different colors of primer, a dark primer will require additional coats of a lighter hue paint before you will have proper color coverage. If the painter is skilled, the "extra" coats need not be a problem, sometimes all it takes is altering the paint pattern. A lighter hue primer with a dark paint will also require additional coats in order to avoid the base color "bleed-thru". However, in this case where you're hoping to paint a grey over a grey primer, if the paint is close to the hue of the primer, it can cause problems for the painter. The basic problem will be one of ensuring even coverage everywhere. Personally, in this scenario, I would prefer painting over the dark or even red oxide primer. As far as compatibility between the paint and the primers, the only type of incompatibility you'll find is if you use a lacquer paint over an enamel or reducer based primer. Since nowdays both lacqur paint and enamel primers are rarely used, you shouldn't have any problem. FWIW Enrique

Neither the High Beam Indicator nor the Brake Indicator are connected to the Dimmer Switch. Adjusting the dimmer will neither brighten nor dim those two lights. If it does, you have a problem someplace as they are not part of the circuit controlled by the dimmer. Enrique

When I've cut Fibreglass panels before, I've used either a Jigsaw with a fine toothed blade (a metal blade will work) or a Sawzall, again with a fine toothed blade. Also cut it one time with a small air grinder and cut-off wheel but that created a CLOUD of dust. Regardless of the method you use to cut, you want to wear a full body coverall, tape the sleeves to your wrists, wear gloves over the taped sleeves AND wear a full head sock. A head sock looks like a winter ski mask. The mask should extend down below the neck of the coverall. Over the face mask, DEFINITELY wear a particle mask and safety glasses. Why all the protection? Because the fine particles of GLASS you will be sending into the air, LOVE to work their way INTO your pores and skin giving you the worst case of itch you'll ever have. That's why the Jigsaw with a vacuum attachment (if you have it) is the best way to go. As far as sawing, you don't want to cut right to the edge of where you need to trim to. Fibreglass, regardless of how slow and careful you are while cutting will tend to shatter and bristle at the cut end of the downward stroke. You'll want to sand that edge down with a D/A sander / grinder. Use the saw to get close to the edge, then grind / sand to the final contour. FWIW

Two possibilities jump to mind: The Cowl Bucket, where the Windshield Wiper Motor and Linkage reside could be rusty, or the drainage hoses for the same could have become cracked and since they run right through the side kick panel..... The other is a leaky windshield gasket. To check for the first, get a buddy to pour a bucket of water INTO the cowl vent holes (those front to back punch in the cowl holes), while you are in either the passenger or driver foot well looking to see if water flows in. If water flows in, look in the uppermost, and outermost corner of the kick panel towards the engine. You'll see a rubber tube coming down out of a metal pipe in the "ceiling" (actually the floor of the cowl bucket). If that is what's leaking, you need a new drain hose. If that isn't what's leaking, check for rust holes in the cowl floor. Although a lot of people cite a leaky windshield gasket as the culprit in a lot of these, I've rarely found a true leaky gasket. If it is a leaky windshield gasket you'll also find that your top Dash Finisher (the one with the holes for the defrost vents) will also exhibit some form of rust. Remove that and check the backside. FWIW Enrique

DON'T PANIC! The "nylon nut thingy that connects it to the latch" is a standard nylon adjust nut. Check with a boneyard for an OEM replacement. OR Order the CD from Mike (our host) and try to order that part from Nissan. The part is a standard part that gets used in LOTS of different vehicles. Bypassing that, you could also check with a good automotive parts store, preferably one that handles BODY parts. You should be able to find them there. I've seen them although I just hit the boneyard. 2¢

I believe that is a "Strut Saver" an aftermarket device sold for just a few dollars in lieu of replacing the strut. I believe JC Whitney carries them, and if you don't want the expense of replacing the strut, it works. Granted, as you've pointed out, you have to move it out of the way to lower the hatch, and the little stick flops around inside after you've closed the hatch. 2¢

MikeW is right. Unless you have a problem with the lock mechanism INSIDE the door, there's little to be gained from opening the door up. The only reason to jimmy with the internal mechanism is if the circcular cam doesn't rotate easily, the door handles inside or out or the door lock rod are having problems. More than likely your door hinges are starting to wear and the door is starting to ride a bit lower, hence hitting the catch on the door sill. You can adjust the catch mechanism up & down as well as in & out to adjust for this, but eventually you may want to have the pins in the hinges replaced. As far as what the tool looks like, think of a two tined fork, that has been flattened out and a V in between the tines instead of straight. (Sort of like a Dandelion Weed Puller) The tool surrounds the clip / insert with a flat section that then allows you to exert force on the surrounding material of the door panel. FWIW

CORRECTION: The little blue indicator is at the TOP of the speedometer, just below the numbers. The one at the bottom is a RED square for the BRAKE Indicator Lamp (Both Parking Brake Engaged and Low Fluid Warning) Getting to the bulb is tricky but not impossible. Just worm your hand back behind the dash and access the top and center bulb. Getting the bulb out of the socket one-handed, IS another story. 2¢