Zup

Not the best, but will give a pretty good idea of where the original sproules were located. They served as injection points into the mold and as attachment points for installing the finished trim on the lense. The trim is held in place by a steel spring pushnut which fits over the center sproule. The originals were vaccuum chrome plated plastic and the stripe is a flat black paint applied to the chrome, apparently by brush. HTH Jim D. "Zup"

Thanks for this post Keith! After cruising through their website using your link, it is readily apparent that these people know what they are doing and could assuredly produce just about anything we, in the Z community, could throw their way. The real question is affordablity. Group purchase is the only way this will fly and Diseazd is leading the way. I'll commit to 4 pair as well. Who's next! If this happens,I can think of many heretofor "unobtainum" that might have a chance at resurrection into existance. Fingers crossed I am, Jim D. "Zup"

PEACE Found in the fuse of my 7/70 build date 240z---- Jim D. "Zup"

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/rubber-sheets-and-strips/rubber/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c1zZ1z0myzu/No-32 There are 3 pages of various thicknesses and sizes. The stuff isn't cheap! :tapemouth HTH Jim D. "Zup"

"full set of Panasport performance wheels for sale. These are 16 x 7, and include lugs and caps. These are in like new condition. Retail $280 ea..................... Your's for $700." My question---:stupid: Are Panasport a better quality than the other brands out there??? Just curious with everyone's background history and knowledge. $700 is more than many other brands that are new. Is this one of those things, they are good quality, copied often, and some of the price is for the name??? Comments and opinions are welcome. Thanks! Jim D. "Zup"

plugs from http://www.grainger.com Look under BSPT plugs HTH Jim D. "Zup"

You guys are great! AJ--I agree. Patina is a natural process--- the result of time, exposure and use. I just want to contol it somewhat! I DO love the cars!! The question is whether to use Gibb's or Maas, as Will suggests above. The lube on the plastic slides is not a problem. Will----What a carefully thought through plan! Brilliant! :bulb: I do have an old assembly that I can use to do as you describe. You have identified exacty the problem I have witnessed on other assemblies----chafing of the cover against the plastic console resulting in marring of the metal finish. :tapemouth Thanks to you all! Jim D. "Zup"

I agree Arnie! A little SEM will cover many transgressions on the early types. :cheeky: This is a problem that is good to have!! At least I think it is!! :classic: Reminds me of the commercial of the dog with the bone that can't rest easy no matter where he puts it!!! :paranoid: Jim D. "Zup"

That's the stuff! :classic: Still don't know that I'll use it, but the testimonials in the link you gave make it interesting enough that I'll order some and try it on some other parts. As usual---if it sounds too good to be true--------:disappoin We'll see! Thanks! Jim D. "Zup"

But Mike, we all know now that you have mastered the secret of time passage to 1969! Methinks that you, my friend, have several "originals" that are in good shape!! Seriously again, I know you are right. Maybe just an obsessive amount of "careful" is in order. :ogre: Dan-- As they say on Mythbusters----plausible---but I'm not yet ready to commit it to a test. :nervous: Do either of you remember the name of that metal preservative that they used on magnesium rims and the like, that supposedly was ridiculously good for the lustre of metal?? I can't---I'm :stupid: Some "old time" sounding name???---- Jim D. "Zup"

All-- I was recently fortunate enough to purchase a NOS ashtray assembly for my Series 2 (73) 240Z. In the past we've had discussions about the surface finish of the sliding lid and how difficult it is to restore that when it has been damaged. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to treat the surface so as to prevent it from oxidizing/tarnishing/staining/marring?? :bulb: I don't intend to use it for it's purpose, but do intend to install it in the car. Any ideas or thoughts are welcome!!! Jim D. "Zup"

does replating----highly recommended Some of his current offerings are here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97454-replated-s30-240z-260z-280z-parts-for-sale/ HTH Jim D. "Zup"

I've been following this thread for several days with keen interest. I bid on and won this auction (E-bay #300490744688) offered by Eiji Hosami. (Datsun Spirit) I wouldn't have bothered if it weren't for the fact that he was the seller. It distresses me to see reports otherwise, as I have bought many items from Eiji and they have always been exactly as described and in the condition described. He is one of the few sellers I trusted. All that said, the set I received, as shown above, is the reproduction set. The hardware and mounting instruction sheet are exactly as 26th-Z posted. (original) I'm very disappointed. Is there any workaround for making these fit, or are they high priced junk??

http://thecliphouse.com (719) 636-1765 Thanks to: Matt and Jay--- Called Auto & Truck Specialties today and ordered several of the headlamp adjustment screws----part #71-3505. They apppear to be the same part I mentioned above. We'll see when they get here and I'll repost then if they are the correct part. Thanks for the tip Matt!! Good folks out there at A&TS! Jim D. "Zup" If you surf on over to "the Clip House" go to the "Wall of Clips" and you can see them in the blue background square of pictures down at the lower right bottom of the picture. The clips I ordered came and they are a good replacement for the originals. Call that number above, ask about part #71-3505 and they will fix you up. HTH Jim D. "Zup"

are a perfect match! You were both blessed when you got together. How long has it been? 2 years? Very, very nice work Mike! Those LeMans look GREAT! I know tastes vary, but to me a Z looks BEST with a 4 spoke pattern on the rims. Lemans, Libres---and to a lesser extent-- Iron Cross, Swasticas Pictures are very good too---best pictures I've seen yet, since the repaint. Are those the original emblems on your car? New decal on the restored radiator? Keep it all coming! It and you are a source for correctness and inspiration for many of us. Thanks for the post---I will eagerly wait for the updates! Jim D. "Zup"

Quite an improvement! Glad to see the blue ignition wires gone!! :embarrass: Yes--please--- do tell your methods. If it is good enough for #00032 and you, it will do well for my silver 73. Did you replace the AB valve and a few braided hoses? All the best Mike! Jim D. "Zup"

Me too-- Two that is--- I'll take 2 Dave---Wal-Mart Money Order will be in the mail today. You're the bbzzzzz kneeeezzzz!! Jim D. Zup

Matt and Jay--- Called Auto & Truck Specialties today and ordered several of the headlamp adjustment screws----part #71-3505. They apppear to be the same part I mentioned above. We'll see when they get here and I'll repost then if they are the correct part. Thanks for the tip Matt!! Good folks out there at A&TS! Jim D. "Zup"

as the plastic housing is not shaped properly, but--- the OEM originals can be found at: www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionH/H38.pdf part #599-003 It seems the last time I pursued this they ran about $.75 each plus shipping. If you order a package of 25 I will buy half of them. It would be good to have a supply around to help others with this issue. Let me know. HTH Jim D. "Zup"

1. stamped into the metal of the cowl ledge above the master vac for the brake booster. 2. the dash tag in the upper drivers side corner of the dash. Jim D. "Zup"

Please add me to this growing list. I'm interested in any and all available repro braided hoses for the engine bay. Thanks too for taking the initiative regarding these parts! :classic: Jim D. "Zup"

I need the tail light finisher panel clips if they are intact and still springy. These are 4 spring metal clips located right above the rear valence just below the tail light openings and just above the bumper bracket area. They are spot welded onto the rear tail light chassis panel and would require drilling out the spot welds to remove. Thanks for your help. I will pay for the time and trouble getting them off and sending them. Jim D. "Zup" ps: I borrowed this photo from a guy on another board that was looking for the same part.

Same source, same problem---won't release to an idle without a foot tap to the accelerator pedal. The set I got from Bruce at ZTherapy doesn't have this issue. Overall I am pleased with Jeff's work with this exception--just haven't gotten around to sending them back for adjustment. I think it is in the throttle shafts, but just a WAG on my part. I feel certain he will make it right. Good guy! Jim D. "Zup"

Thanks Steven---I am so glad you still post here. You are the man when it comes to these A/C questions and I was hoping you would read and comment.Here's a :kiss:----I mean Thanks also to you guys for your comments about your A/C experiences. I am leaning to the HRA unit if I change, but the car is so original I wanted to give this a go first. I will repost if there are any other issues or resolutions to this topic. Bottom line now is that it does work and yeilds cold air---yipee! Many thanks again!! Jim D. "Zup"

Hi all--- I have an original 50,000 mile 73 240Z that has the dealer installed A/C package. It is all functional, but lost it's charge of R-12 over 36 years.:surprised Took it to an A/C shop, they pulled a vaccuum, and it held steady for an hour--so no apparent leaks. Charged it with R-12 till the low side was 30 lbs. and the high side was 130 lbs. It was dispensed from a 30 lb. cylinder so no figure was available for how much refrigerant was used. It works and chills the evaporator to 24+F. :classic: Cold air at the vents though, as expected, the volume of air flow doesn't compare to modern units----I am pretty satisfied all in all. Cost was $103.00 tax included. Does anyone know the operating pressures recommended for these units? We don't want it overcharged or undercharged and the information isn't available to me via the search function. The only hassle left is that the compressor is pretty loud as it runs. Doesn't sound like a bearing---just loud. Also, the drive belt vibrates quite a bit on it's return from the crank pully to the compressor pulley segment. The belt tension seems about right. It is a combination V/cogged belt. (if you know what I mean) Should I install a V belt type? The idler pulley wheel seems to work correctly. This is the longest leg of the belt path and that may be why it vibrates so much. Does anyone know if this is normal? Am I expecting too much, or are these A/C units kinda rough operating. Thanks for any insight from you other vintage A/C owners! Jim D. "Zup"