jackboxxx

heres a topic to read about that http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15669&highlight=building+L24

Laughing...its kinda sounds like my sons honda civic... or could you somehow harness the air compressor power and divert it to the rear wheels kinda like a turbo? naa bad idea ...

well the locations are a specific distance from the carb linkage, as to create a certain amount of pullback . if you go too short on distance for example, when you let off the gas your carbs may not completely close to idle. if you go too long, youll have a "hard gas pedal" feel...meaning you have to push too hard to give the car gas...which can make it difficult to drive.

Theres a guy making a s**tload of cash off the classic car market... but if theres somewhere you can get that much for the 442 that would be the place.

hmmmm hasnt someone from the east coast been driving out each year to pick that award up? cant recall his name :/ Ohhh I'll be there...wouldnt miss it, I'll be with the ZCCIV (z car club inland valley) group assuming theres no parking issues Ohh our group of Z's will be leaving from Temecula CA. bright and early Sunday morning heading out the 15n to 91w to the show if anyone wanted to join us for the drive in.

Nice trip are you going to bring a few harness's with you? (i would) If you happen upon the "ZCCIV" club area stop in and say Hi I'll be the guy with the 240Z.

sounds like the same issue I had when i went from 4 speed to 5 speed. the orginal 4 speed rod was too short and disengaging was right down by the floor. then I tried using an old 5 speed rod from my parts car, and it was too long to fit between the fork and slave. so I shaved the 5 speed rod down little by little till it was close to 1/2 the difference in length between the 4 and 5 speed. works like a charm. and by the way, the engage problem 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 2nd, may not just be an adjust problem... it could also be you need your tranny worked..(2nd gear syncros)? I have the centerforce II clutch and a lightened flywheel as well.

Yep mark, They are 44mm and they match stock SU's. I just needed 50mm to match mine as they are bored out..sorry about the confusion. by the way your new setup looks great! JacK

I remember this car...it was for sale back just before i bought my blue Z, I still have a bunch of pics from the old owner (i think the previous owner was the orginal or he bought it from a friend who was the orginal owner) when I was emailing back and forth thinking of buying it..i think it sold for somewhere around $3500 back in Jan. 2005 to this antenna guy. I was pissed because I put a bid in for it at the last minute and he snagged it out from under me. (i was an Ebay virgin) and didnt know of any of the settings for auto bidding at the time . I has some significant rust thru spots, but workable..of course those flare have to go and the stripes too... but low serial #, my favorte Z color...had a lot of spare parts, series I style, orginal owner etc...made it attractive to me at the time. If anyone is considering this car I have a bunch of extra photos like the one below....showing the underside, gauges etc..

I remember this car...it was for sale back just before i bought my blue Z, I still have a bunch of pics from the old owner (i think the previous owner was the orginal or he bought it from a friend who was the orginal owner) when I was emailing back and forth thinking of buying it..i think it sold for somewhere around $3500 back in Jan. 2005 to this antenna guy. I was pissed because I put a bid in for it at the last minute and he snagged it out from under me. (i was an Ebay virgin) and didnt know of any of the settings for auto bidding at the time . I has some significant rust thru spots, but workable..of course those flare have to go and the stripes too... but low serial #, my favorte Z color...had a lot of spare parts, series I style, orginal owner etc...made it attractive to me at the time. If anyone is considering this car I have a bunch of extra photos like the one below....showing the underside, gauges etc..

Thats the same thing I did whan I put my new motor in, upon testing when I 1st got it running, i tried just bolting up those old foam/wire mesh filters i already had directly to the carbs, but could feel a very noticable decrease in performance from when I had no filters on at all. so I went and measured the stacks motorsport had, but they all had something like 42-45mm diam. max on the bolt on side compared to the stock stacks of close to 50mm... this wouldnt matter for stock SU's really, but my SU's are bored out so I opted to cut my stock stacks out...to get the extra air flow. they fit real nice into the big round K&N's in the pics below, but I couldnt stop tinkering with air flow so I used a hole saw ( , it was a bitch to do ) to cut a 60ishmm hole in the end of my K&N's and installed a wire mesh inside of them, hoping I would get a bit more air...my thinking was the sealed end cap on the K&N's was limiting airflow a bit. Personally the result "feels" like theres no filters on at all. I like the look a little better that the ITG's ONLY because Im not too fond of the RED framework on them in a blue engine bay. other than that, i love those ITG filters:). Sorry no pic of the drilled out end cap...my darn camera is at work, the last pic is prior to drilling.

I think its just because the inake of air through the front of the air cleaner kinda forces it back to the rear carb more..and of course the carb is a big vacuum as well..so once pushed by the incoming air, the suction of the rear carb takes in most of the gunk. how much gunk is there? when you say gunk, i kinda picture a lot....of thick sludgy stuff..

Im thinking the rear carb gets dirtyer because of the airflow coming into the air cleaner?

Guess you could call me a K&N fan the round ones below are supposed to be capable of some ungodly CFM airflow above a 1000ea. ...which is great because SU's cant digest that much It feels the same with them on as when im running straight air horns.. <a href="http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p62100027uf.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4996/p62100027uf.th.jpg" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://img196.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p61800279oz.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/1033/p61800279oz.th.jpg" border="0" /></a>

Looks like there is a kit available to repair small "breaks" in the lines I did a simple search and several old threads came up on this topic here is one: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19888&highlight=rear+defroster

had the same issue recently, It turned out the terminals holding the left headlight fuse were stretched out... not gripping the fuse tightly, resulting in a very dim light. once fixxed, the problem went away. I found this only after looking everywhere else including pulling the headlight buckets...

The above reply was kind of bugging me, because although im not the master mechanic i would like to be, i do know in the right hands, a 3.1L will gain more than 10%. So...I forwarded this thread to Dave Rebello, who i knew would have a thing or 2 to say on the matter. here is his reply: Hey Dave, I was reading thru a Z forum today and came across a bit of a debate I thought you should chime in on....here is a quote from the last post... what are your thought on this??? Lance (me) From Dave: If you don't know how to correct the R/S ratio and don't think the bigger bore and proper cam selection will inhance air flow and therefore greatly improve torque and HP then yes there is only a minimal improvement. But the fact is when built properly the longer stroke and bigger bore allows for cylinder head improvements that can't be accomplished on the smaller engine. We see more rear wheel HP with our big engines than a street 2.8 can accomplish at the flywheel. With our long rod 3.2L we are approaching 330 HP & over 300 ft lbs torque (flywheel) with a 7600 RPM redline, (on pump gas). I will let you know when we finish the new package. I remember when the circle track guy's said the same thing about the 327cid vs the 350cid and so on. Further more it should only cost slightly more to build a full blown (3.1 or whatever) than a 2.8 as the engines in question still need all the same parts, pistons, cam, bore, bearings, porting, valve trane, etc. Sounds like you read a one sided article. Why should it cost $3000 more for the bigger engine. The way we build them about the only difference is the cost of the crank. Maybe they put all used parts in their 2.8's? Thanks DReb

to me the nice thing about those carbs is they look to be straight off a motor...not in a box all torn apart.. If your lucky, a nice cleaning is all you need to do, I see a lot of dirt built up on the intake side. I would suggest getting the SU rebuild kit from nissan or ztherapy or motorsport, dont go the cheap route and just buy hose from the auto parts store, for those bottom nozzle hoses..if you do, they will harden and crack, and then leak (right on to your exhaust) very quickly, which could be a fire hazard. these carbs are very simple to tear down, clean and rebuild. dont be afraid to do this part. the only tricky part is the tuning of the carbs once they are installed on the motor. if your good with SU's you can adjust them kinda close yourself, but to really do it right you need a air flow meter, to sync/balance them correctly. if you dont balance them, you could end up with a motor that is getting the majority of its power from 1 side. there are many sites out there to help you do this rebuild/tuning job heres a couple...: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/su.html http://www.sportsimports.ca/archive/technicaltips/att06.htm and some info from our own site here... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=195369

Hey Phil, Last time around I went for the 2.8 swap deal, and upgraded it a bit to run about 15 sec in the 1/4, and was very happy, buuutttt.... this time around I went 3.1L, and damm...there is no comparision between the 2, the 3.1 just plain hauls arse! it pulls so hard all the way to 6500+rpm, and seems like it would prefer to be roadracing all day long... I can explain the difference like this, in my 2.8 car I felt like I was able to be competitive with most of the small sports cars out there, but in the 3.1 car, it truly feels like i have no competition with other cars in my class..( 2-3000lb 3 litre 6 cyl, (non turbo,supercharged, or nitrus'ed) sport coupes) not to mention the big arse grin I get on my face whenever I jump on the gas pedal a bit.

Hey thats Jasons Z...I talked with his dad a bit prior to having Dave Rebello build me a similar motor last year..he has beaten just about all the other local kids around the Antioch CA. area with that Z...as far as the motor goes, its got the all the good stuff done to it, last time we spoke he was up around $8000 invested in the engine..so if your looking for L series powered Z that will kick arse on most anything around...this might be the ticket

oops nevermind...didnt read all the way down the page..

could it be as simple as a strut bumper? mine were pretty badly beaten up last time I did struts.. maybe its not suspension related? is your exhaust well strapped?

AHH that helps a bit I love the loss in translations... Power steering (understood) RB 20 engine (easy enough) official recognition end (means its a inspected and registered car???) Thorex 44 pie (not sure here...carb setup im guessing) stainless steel rammer foot Str. muffler (um exhaust system? header...) ??? cooler equipped ワタナベ (oil or trans cooler)?? 14 inch aluminum (rims) ??? CD (got this one ) Ivory (vehicle or int. color)?

Thanks Miles Sorry I just saw the Japan location and assumed you spoke the language, thanks for the info, and sharing your knowlege on this classic.

Sakijo, Ive had this website link for years, to what I thought was a Datsun/Nissan sports car used car dealer, but upon looking at it more closely, it seems like they do a lot of "modernizing" to these classics, motor upgrades and such... Have you seen this place before? I always thought it was some sort of haven for Skylines and fairladys... Can you do any translations>? http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/