240260280z

Has anyone seen a z with the non-hood, non-fender part ( surface covered by the plastic cover) of the headlight bucket painted a different colour. Just thinking and wondering about ways of making an all white ZG theme a bit more interesting. I want to take blue down this road to a white zg but add something more.... maybe light grey like the gnose?

Here is my understanding: There are 3 timing variables for our Z cars: Initial static advance. It is the "clocking" of the distributor housing. It is adjusted by rotating the distributor. Mechanical advance (Centrifugal Advance). It is the additional dynamic advance caused by springs and weights that are spun outward as the rpms increase. This outward movement in turn, rotates a plate that advances timing. It is adjusted by altering weights and springs and the slots that control how far the plate rotates. Vacuum advance. It is the additional advance caused by engine vacuum. (there are typically two vacuum sources. One is "manifold" vacuum which is on the manifold side of the throttle valve. It is highest at idle (and also at so-called "over-run".... (which is what happens when your rpms are high and you see the police and suddenly take your foot off the accelerator) the other is ported vacuum (which is venturi-effect vacuum) and is caused by air flowing through a passage and "drawing" from the wall as the air flow increases. Ported vacuum is typically used as the source for Z vacuum. However, a port (hole) can be placed near the throttle valve that can have both manifold and ported vacuum. Vacuum advance is adjusted by an epoxied stop screw in the vaccum housing on the side of the distributor. The size and shape of the vacuum housing also affect how fast and how far the vacuum advance is. The purpose of changing advance is 2 fold: maximizing power minimizing emissions A car idles best with lots of advance, however there are a few more considerations: fuel takes time to burn the rpms increase when you clock the distibutor (cw for Z's)...due to more efficiency/energy from a better burn too little advance starts burning the fuel too late and it ends up burning leaving the chamber as it passes the exhaust valve. It will continue to burn outside the engine in the exhaust header. You can make them glow red from late ignition of the charge. too much timing and the NO emissions are higher too much timing and it is difficult to crank the car to start it Mechanical Centrifugal Advance allows the timing to be lower at start and at idle (to make starting easier and to lower emissions) however it increases rapidly to allow better fuel efficiency and power when running Vacuum Advance is designed to provide more advance when cruising under a light load to increase fuel efficiency. The purpose of varying the ignition timing is to optimize fuel burning and have the pressure press the piston at the correct time. This varies at idle, cruising and under wide open throttle. Too much advance and the pressure from the fuel burn presses on the piston as it is trying to rise. This causes pinging of the piston's aluminium surface.

Classic engineer's eye for detail oversight....not to worry. Investigation and scientific method always wins in the end, just the order the way the problems fall out may not be the easiest path.

SIP, J-lead, PGA, been there too

I took 2mm of the head in my blue 280z with no shims... it is all geometry. Shims are commonly used but there are ways around this practice.

Make sure the oil bar is flowing oil on all 12 cam lobes before you fire it. (cranking with plugs out is a good way to check.

I re-read your post and the "push rod on the master is fully extended" could be the culprit. You may have reduced the master's stroke. Think of the plunger in the master; for it to give maximum stroke, that plunger has to be back towards the firewall as a starting point.... this frame of reference may help.

Not blaming, just stating facts.... I know a little about Chinese manufacturing..... and their products get into many supply chains sadly. EDIT See next post for possible solution

You can also get adjustable end links to give you more roll with the same roll bar.

I find that shocks and springs, seat, then tires and rims affect ride comfort the most. Roll bars only come into play in the corners. I find that when a car rolls it is unsettling as a driver. I find that if the car tracks flat around a corner, I have a better sense of the tires limit. I would not worry about the bigger roll bars except where they attach and the metal quality there.

WOW that looks great! I am very impressed.

You should send that bill for pulling the transmission and all your time troubleshooting to China. Seems like our suppliers are content to pass that crap onto us. Can you imagine if it was the brake master and it was too short.... sadly I bet it has or will happen.

I have seen this with other aftermarket slaves. You are correct. Typical mainland china quality.... looks like a master, feels like a master but it isn't a master. This happened to me on my RAV4. I just took a longer rod from a spare Z master and swapped. A lot of these parts are interchangeable on Toyota's, Nissan's, Mazdas and Hondas.

If I told you I would have to bill you....said the lawyer ....yuk yuk...this is the funny bone thread. I work in telecoms.

These cars clean up nice and are easy to work on. If you like the style, like most of us here, each one is worth a million dollars

Been working here in Panama for nearly a month. The driving is a blast, especially in the cities. I had to take pictures of the road signs as they all crack me up. Surreal driving in a rain forest hearing Christmas music. This Canadian needs snow. Big Head Crossing Big Bubble Butt Crossing Steroid Lifter Jogging Man with Book Crossing Ski Jump or Cliff ahead or Got Winch? My work colleague thinks they had a contest where kids in kindergarten drew the signs. The construction Zone signs are also tres cool. The detail of the drawings is crazy. I'll try to take a few more pics in the next week.

Nice hatch to body alignment and shiny chrome! BEAUTIFUL

http://www.hammondsplains.com/zcars4sale/240z/greenfeb1970/index.htm http://www.hammondsplains.com/zcars4sale/240z/blue240zNH/index.htm http://www.hammondsplains.com/zcars4sale/240z/ltblue1970/index.htm

Paint Stripping 101 - Get Schooled in the Many Ways to Take the Paint Off Your Car - Hot Rod Magazine

Paint Stripping

Welcome! You have come to the right Z forum. As well you are now geographically surrounded by the most and best condition z's on earth. Decide on what you want first, set your budget, and if you are not in a rush, then take your time shopping, there are many cars and the right one will come along. Post links to the cars you are interested in here and members will tell you the good and bad aspects. Research old posts on this forum, to gain more expertise in the Z everything you need is in the archives here. Two more great sites are: the Z Car Home Page Datsun Z Garage- ZCAR Performance Mods For finding a z look here: los angeles cars & trucks - by owner classifieds "240z" - craigslist

I am still lost. What is the difference between an "Amber" 240z lens and a "JDM" 250z lens?

Thanks! Can you please clarify the differences in the JDM/Amber 240z tail light lens' ? Thanks!