240260280z

I liked seeing this old thread as the pics on the first page are beauties.

You can try a redline transmission fluid. Their MTL and MT90 are good. http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/MTL%20and%20MT-90%20Tech%20Info.pdf

Some junkers near you @ low price: Three 40 Dcoe 18 26 45 for Spares or Repair | eBay NOTE THE 18 NEEDS A THROTTLE SHAFT IT COULD BE TOAST.... I did this fix once. Not too bad to do. You may be able to scavenge the parts from the others. New seals would be needed.

I believe the booster will work. You simply have to remove or relocate a valve under the big nuts at the bottom. Do some searches and you will find it.

ZH got it. The bigger chunks look like a turbo bearing:

Thanks Julio, that sounds like a nice mix. What did the 13/16" come from.

Looks like piston pin retainers and the top of a rod.

Looks like the pistons could range from 1.12" to 1.88" Wilwood Forged Superlite Internal 4 Piston Aluminum Brake Calipers - JEGS Can't find any more details on arizonaz or other retail sites.

How many pistons in a Willwood caliper and what diameter? I'll update the table. I also noticed a 5/8" master in my heap so I'll add that.

Thanks guys, this helps. In parallel I decided to crunch the numbers. Now I see what is going on. I think I have to focus on the brake booster and vacuum source w/o changing the master cylinder (as you both mention above).

Hi All, I decided to compare master cylinder area to total caliper piston areas for common Z part combinations and apply hydraulic principals. Note: The total caliper area is the area summation for all pistons in both calipers. From the data, it is clear to the Sumitomo 4 pot (Toyota S12-8) caliper upgrade has minimal area change from stock (2%) thus there is no significant change in required pedal pressure nor pedal travel. With reference to the table, the common upgrade to a 15/16" master and S12-8 calipers will increase pedal pressure by 11% but reduce pedal travel by 11%. For a 240z or 260z, this will reduce pedal travel from 140mm to 126mm (which is what an 82 280zx's stock travel is) Stock brake pedal strokes 72 240z: 140mm 74 260z: 140mm 75-78 280z: 123mm 82 280zx: 125mm Pedal height from floor is 203mm Examples: adding a S12-8 calipers to a 72 240z will increase pedal travel from 140mm to 143mm adding a S12-8 calipers and 3/4" master to a 72 240z will increase pedal travel from 140mm to 195mm (not good as maximum travel is 203mm) Data: Stock Datsun 240z to 280z caliper has two 53.98mm pistons (I could only find 72-78 data) S12-8 caliper has two 42.82mm & two 33.93mm pistons S12-W caliper has four 42.82mm pistons I hope this is useful

71 240z with triple webers (low vacuum source) and a refreshed stock brake booster. The master cylinder was changed to a new one (7/8" dia) and the calipers were changed to 4 piston Toyota's. The pedal pressure is fairly hard which I think is due to the low vacuum and larger caliper piston area. I am thinking that finding 3/4" master and maybe increasing the booster to a 280z 8.5" will help. Any suggestions, comments? Where can I source a 3/4" master?

Congrats! Now those Porches racing in your class may have a chance .

Great stuff Leon...Thanks! I'll get some 65's too for experimentation. I think that it may also affect slow transitions too since the spills will be 0 so any pedal movement will always squirt fuel.

With respect to the accelerator circuit and its components, what seems to be the best for an L24 and L28? Leon I saw where you switched to 0 spill and 0.53 pump jets and stock springs and I plan to try similar on an L24 later this spring. Do you think it is worth trying stronger pump spring and maybe even a 0.60 pump jets or simply drilling out small jets to get the wider spray pattern shown above?

Looks like something for Keith Frank to expand on

Other good posts: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/38932-interior-instrument-light-rheostat.html

Excellent. I bet Escalon is smiling down on you!

Blood spots up near the bumper....I am calling CSI Looks more than kinda cool!

These should help. Back of tach after conversion to single wire (red one) Back of tack before conversion (In situ). Note the grounding copper spring metal on the collar of the lights. You can also see the Tach calibration screw with a dab of ink showing where it was set in 1971. The rheostat in a "fox hole" making it very challenging to attack. The tach above is clearly in the way. The rheostat and a broken wire that disconnected from one of it's terminals More detail of the tach light bulbs The two wing nuts are also shown.

This thread shows how to reassemble SU's with lots of photos and exploded drawings. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/articles-our-members/43176-su-reassembly-step-step-%5Bpart-1-tear-down-torn-n-tattered-worse-wear-n-tear%5D.html

Not that you want to go there but here is a similar experience in battling a Cannon manifold: I had to reverse the mounting on a 510 manifold this past autumn. The PO had the linkage under the manifold. The top of the manifold had two bosses with already-drilled holes for vac. advance and brake booster vacuum (though the 510 had no brake booster). The top holes were too large for the linkage's rod ends so I used a larger barbed brass hose fitting, cut off the barb, tapped the intake and threaded the rest of the barbed fitting into the larger hole then drilled and tapped the centre of the barbed fitting to accept the rod end. The barbed fitting was essentially a step down adapter. Everything worked fine.

Was a new valve guide installed?

You should look after that as it can do the same to you on a late night when you are tired. The dog experience could be a life saver.