madkaw

So close to factory !

Interesting ! Some things to consider with my race car ( well someday ). John as good people and shared with me some experience he had for working with Rebello and it was helpful. So bigger connected rails are okay , but only spot weld ?

Probably wasn’t an OEM sprocket . I believe it’s every fourth revolution the links end up correctly.

I believe one tooth is 9 degrees

Looks like the tool is in there

Why do more guessing than he needs to. If he turns the crankshaft slowly and carefully while holding the chain he can get it to O. It wouldn’t take hardly anything to get to TDC, then figuring the camshaft location is much easier since you have the alignment marks to judge where to put the sprocket. I just went thru this because I forgot to mark the link when I removed the sprocket. I knew it was on #3 when I removed the sprocket , but dummie me forgot to mark the link. I was able to locate sprocket properly by using the factory alignment marks ( the - and the v) Logically if you are TDC on the crankshaft that is just one less thing to guess.

Well looks like a while since I updated this. Well the owner took the car home without me getting any significant seat time. He hadn’t insured the car so I only went around the block with it. I told him he would taking it at his own risk . And guess what- it over heated on the way to his house. Idled perfectly as he left and later I get a call with him saying -“ I think it over heated “. In fact it had. He’s not too mechanical minded, so it didn’t register that the steam at the gas station might be an indicator somethings wrong. So I went to his house and sure enough - water in the oil. But why did it overheat when I idled it at my house forever and took it around the block with no problems. Took the radiator to the radiator shop and they said it was toast. So we proceeded with a HG replacement . And of course while we’re at it we had the head sent to the machine shop for a valve job. Running water in this engine had just caused too much damage and we we had to replace anything that the water touched. Also found that the somewhere in its life the valves made contact with the pistons . Since the cam sprocket was on #3 , I figured someone didn’t get the adjustment right the first time or something like that. We pulled the freeze plugs and were glad we did, they needed changed because of the water . The head just needed a slight skim to get it true and the valve guides and valves were in good shape. The machinist just had to touch the valve seats a bit. So I get the engine all back together and it runs perfect! I check the oil and I’m still getting water in the oil- WTF! Now I’m worried that the block is cracked . The owner is freaking out and thinking he is in too deep. In my mind, it runs too good to be a crack block. No bubbles or air in the radiator . How to figure this out? So I got a radiator pressure checker from Oriellys . I pressurized the system at normal pressure and with the valve cover I could here a faint his coming from the timing cover -down inside . But what am I hearing ? So I bumped the pressure up to 15lbs and bingo - the seal on the timing cover that was hissing is now spraying water into the timing cover . Good news is I found it, bad news is I have to pull the hole front end apart again. Alas , owning a vintage machine can go like this. I told the owner that in the end he will have one of the nicest 280z’s in the Midwest when it’s done . And almost a rebuilt motor -ha. We are going to do the timing chain also

DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE YET! You should have lined up the crank sprocket on 0 first before putting on cam sprocket . It will be tricky to keep tension on the chain , but you should be able hold the tension tool in place and move the crank that small bit. THEN install the sprocket

Im in ! ?

I’m jealous , but also happy for you guys. Looks like the weather is nice .

I hate missing it. So it’s Branson Missouri ?

I’m out guys. My back is not doing so well. Sitting in one position is the worst scenario for me. I guess my tune up was a failure .

I’ve learned to work the clutch around the clunk. I can make mine clunk at will , but I can also clutch finesse around it. I feel like I’ve done everything. I think my CV axle upgrade has too much slop in the joints .

Oil spray bars - 40$ each 42mm Nissan valves - 25$ for the set Diesel rockers - 100$ for the set dizzy spindles -20$ each Ansa 2-1/4” exhaust tip- NOS that didn’t weather storage the best- very good condition-75$ scuff plates -25$ each 81 zx MAF from a running car - 50$ SU manifolds -N-36 - 40$ best offer plus shipping sfinnerty1018@comcast.net

Oops - should have posted that I have a radiator - thanks

Too far gone

From a 77 . Part that goes thru the firewall. Need one with a lot less rust -lol

Very interesting . Thanks guys. I don’t actually own a manual but can search on line like I did earlier.

Had an issue with this 77 dizzy with having the timing maxed out in the advanced settings just to get to stock specs . Come to find out that the vacuum advance arm was not attached to the breaker plate. So the screw was in place but not attached to anything. This put the breaker plate in the wrong position - retarded in regards to the pick-up position. can someone tell me what this other adjustable plate does- see pic. It was adjusted all the way to one side. The horseshoe pick up or whatever it is moves with it, it I can’t find any info in the FSM about it. What does it do?

I should add a disclaimer for some of the sh!t I do -lol

You can still have good compression with a blown HG. Might be enough coolant to foul plugs but not to cause a smoke. Need a pressure checker to find it

Sending unit is still in the same place right? I think there would enough room. If you were worried about room for the lines clearing the body -between the tank and body- you could adjust where the tank sits . You could lower the tank by not tightening the J hooks all the way

Blown head gasket?

Now the dilemma ——- Dave Rebello called and my stroker short block is done and is shipped ! Do I finish this motor with the L28 bottom end or just go for the 3.2 with the maxima head !

I didn’t make a specific statement - but I did say in this thread that the block had been shaved - .005 to be exact